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A question about a Key Gauge

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

A question about a Key Gauge

Postby poor paperclip picker » 2 Jan 2008 1:04

I have been thinking about getting a Key Gauge http://www.lockpickshop.com/LKG001.html and I was wondering if this will suffice for what I need. What I have been doing is coming up with rekeying combinations and if I want a key for the combo I made, I could use this to figure out the depths of the cut I would use on a blank. ( I would use another key for the spacing).

Also I have a key that I got with a cheap schage re-keying set at Menard's and the keys they gave me didn't fit my key way. They gave me SC1's when what I needed were E series. So I went to walmart and bought a few blank E's.

So what I am thinking about doing is cutting a new key for the bitting that came with the re-keying set (it gives you a sheet with the cut numbers on it). So I figured if I get this, it will let me know the depths to cut. Previously when I made a copy, I used the original key over the blank and marked it with a sharpie, then filed away. Surprisingly, the first key I tried to make this way worked :shock:

But I guess in short, would this be good to have so I can make my own pin combinations and file corresponding keys to them?

Sorry for making this so long and thanks in advance.
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Postby keysman » 2 Jan 2008 1:40

Those type of key guages are handy if you are doing a lot of work on the same type of lock ..... personally I would just buy an inexpensive dial caliper from Harbour Freight or similiar type store for $20 or less.. you will find the calipers have lots of uses .

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisear ... &Submit=Go
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Postby poor paperclip picker » 2 Jan 2008 2:30

Thanks for the post. Wow I didnt know that you could get a digital caliper for that cheap. With a caliper though, how would you know what measurement a Schalge 7 cut is or other cut?? Right now just for practice purposes I am only re-pinning a Schlage KIK to practice picking on.

But I think I am going to have to get a digital caliper too :D
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Postby keysman » 2 Jan 2008 11:22

poor paperclip picker wrote:Thanks for the post. Wow I didnt know that you could get a digital caliper for that cheap. With a caliper though, how would you know what measurement a Schalge 7 cut is or other cut?? Right now just for practice purposes I am only re-pinning a Schlage KIK to practice picking on.

But I think I am going to have to get a digital caliper too :D


The space and depth charts are available on line.. I am not at my usual computer so I don't have the link, but I am sure somebody will post it here. Once you have the chart it is a matter of checking the root depth with your mic or caliper.

If somebody has a rapid share account, or wants to host it, I can send a file ( .PDF 5mgs) with many space and depths listed.
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Postby freakparade3 » 2 Jan 2008 11:57

Schlage Depths
0 =.335
1 =.320
2 =.305
3 =..290
4 =.275
5 =.260
6 =.245
7 =.230
8 =.215
9 =.200

Depth increment = .015

MACS =6
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Postby poor paperclip picker » 2 Jan 2008 13:15

Thanks everybody for your help
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Postby freakparade3 » 2 Jan 2008 13:25

Remember when using a caliper to measure you are not actually measuring how deep the cut it, you are measuring the remaining key.
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Postby poor paperclip picker » 2 Jan 2008 13:40

freakparade3 wrote:Remember when using a caliper to measure you are not actually measuring how deep the cut it, you are measuring the remaining key.


Ok that makes sense. Are those measurements of the whole key blade, or just the part of the blade that gets cut?
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Postby freakparade3 » 2 Jan 2008 14:05

The whole key. Measure from the valley of the cut to the bottom of the key.
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Postby MacGyver101 » 2 Jan 2008 15:07

freakparade3 wrote:Remember when using a caliper to measure you are not actually measuring how deep the cut it, you are measuring the remaining key.


Random tip: some digital calipers will allow you to "zero" the reading on the uncut blank, allowing you to read the cut depth (as a negative number).
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Postby MBI » 2 Jan 2008 18:03

I think this link may give you the information you need for the depth and spacing of key cuts.

http://web.archive.org/web/20050215102400/http://dlaco.com/spacing/spacing.htm
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Postby linty » 2 Jan 2008 20:19

i don't know any locksmiths that use key gauges, you should be able to guess the pin right visually in 2 or so tries, which is faster than using a gauge.
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Postby MBI » 2 Jan 2008 23:21

I still use key gauges a lot of the time. If I've code cut or decoded a particular type of key recently I can usually decode one visually since it's still relatively fresh in my mind, but if it's a brand of key that I haven't done in a while I often find I'm off a little bit.

What it usually boils down to is that if I don't have my gauges handy I'll try to do it visually, but if I have them right there I'll use them and save myself the trial-and-error of possibly being wrong.

I had a sizeable job a while back where I had to generate keys for hundreds of cabinet locks in an old building. They had many different brands of locks that had been installed over the years, and most of the keys were long gone. By the time I was finished I had gotten to the point where I could visually decode almost any major brand of wafer cabinet lock or key with almost perfect accuracy. I'm a bit rusty now though. It seems it's a skill that fades with time, at least for me.

Maybe if I did locksmithing full time I'd be better at it, but I only spend about half my time doing locksmithing.
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Postby keysman » 3 Jan 2008 2:22

MBI wrote:I think this link may give you the information you need for the depth and spacing of key cuts.

http://web.archive.org/web/20050215102400/http://dlaco.com/spacing/spacing.htm


Thanks .. That is the page I was thinking of .. handy
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Postby freakparade3 » 3 Jan 2008 10:06

linty wrote:i don't know any locksmiths that use key gauges, you should be able to guess the pin right visually in 2 or so tries, which is faster than using a gauge.


I actually used to crry my key gauge with me for this purpose. Whenever I saw a key (friends and family not ramdom people) I would guess the depths and then check with the gauge to see how close I was. I have heard about some locksmiths good enough to visually decode a key laying on a seat. Then simply cut a new key for an auto lockout.
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