installing abloy lock but i got a problem pls help

[kizmit]

I received my Abloy protec locks today, and I went to install them and I think i need to trim the cylinder torque blades on either side of the deadbolt. Is this normally the case?

If so what is the best way to trim them?

[mitch.capper]

Generally no, why do you have to trim them what are they hitting? Do you have any pictures?

[mh]

If this is what's called torque blades
http://doorlocksdirect.com/84992.html?p ... elid=BIZRA
then of course they would need to be cut depending on the thickness of your door?
E.g. with pliers?

Cheers,
mh

[Jaakko]

I received my Abloy protec locks today, and I went to install them and I think i need to trim the cylinder torque blades on either side of the deadbolt. Is this normally the case?

Yes, that is quite normal to have to trim them. The proper length depends on the thickness of your door or whatever you are installing them into.

If so what is the best way to trim them?

Hacksaw. There should be cut lines in the torque blade, be careful to not cut too short

[Mutzy]

Are abloy cylinder tails made of hardened or mild steel? If they're not too hard, a decent pair of bullnose pliers can do the trick.

[unlisted]

Are abloy cylinder tails made of hardened or mild steel? If they're not too hard, a decent pair of bullnose pliers can do the trick.

They are a little thicker than normal, I find its "denser" metal also.. I would recommend using the hacksaw also, and filing any rough edges down when finished.

Just remember to cut it so the tail goes halfway into the door frame. Both tail pieces do not have to be touching.. Don't want any binding issues now..

[Jaakko]

Are abloy cylinder tails made of hardened or mild steel? If they're not too hard, a decent pair of bullnose pliers can do the trick.

Some sort of mild steel, because they can be bent 90 degrees with a couple of pliers I would go for the hacksaw and file it, like unlisted said. Just because the metal is quite thick.

[unlisted]

Are abloy cylinder tails made of hardened or mild steel? If they're not too hard, a decent pair of bullnose pliers can do the trick.

Some sort of mild steel, because they can be bent 90 degrees with a couple of pliers I would go for the hacksaw and file it, like unlisted said. Just because the metal is quite thick.

Yup, almost as thick as your skull..

(j/k)

[David_Parker]

Kizmit, what is your door thickness, and what kind of application are you putting the abloy cylinder on? When you say Deadbolt, you do mean a 2 1/8" hole in an 1 3/4" thick door right? Thats usually the standard here in the US.

Now, if the door is a hollow metal, and heavily used, sometimes the frame itself can collapse. I find this to be true with metal gates that require the old Schlage BC162 double cylinders, and have to used two trim rings to space the tailpieces apart.

*Note: I call the blades on the end of a cylinder TAIL PIECES, and find that this phrase is usually an industry standard.

Most manufacturers provide a tailpiece that has grooves in it to allow easy breaking off to adjust for door thickness. This is not necessarily so with double cylinders. If your cylinder requires a lazy motion tail piece, and you find an issue of them binding against one another, try grinding them down, or finding another trim ring (the ring that usually accomodates a 2 1/8" thick hole) and doubling up on it.

Also, please post any photos to allow us to help you. Thanks and good luck!


-Dave.

[mitch.capper]

For what its worth I have come across some insanely hard torque blades/tail pieces that ive cut with everything from cut off wheels to grinders as they can certainly be annoying.

[kizmit]

Sorry it took so long to reply, its been crazy this week.

First off I bought the [2] Abloy Protecs from Han Fey in the Netherlands. Who by the way is extremely nice and easy to work with. I HIGHLY recommend him, I hope to work with him more down the road. Han if you are there, thanks for everything =)

Ok, so you are correct I am referring to the Tail Piece. Since they were both already connected to each side of the lock. I decided to cut them off with a dremel. I tried to snap them with a set of pliers, however I was afraid to damage the cylinder... as the tail piece seems pretty solid. It took a little while to get each one cut correctly with the dremel, but it worked perfectly.

I also installed a Strikemaster II however, I think I need to trim the opening just a tad for the bolt, as there is a little friction against the Strikemaster II, Ill probably grind it down a tiny bit with the dremel.

Thanks for all the help =)

[raimundo]

cutting the tailpiece when installing a lock is something to pay attention to, tailpieces on some locks will cause immediate malfunction when installing if left too long, when the cylinder or thumbturn is screwed down tight. It will bind the lock and it will be difficult to turn the key, and if you just brute force it, it will eventually just break or loosen some thing.
If you cut the tail piece too short it will work for a few months until it fails by falling out of the boltworks so that you can turn your key easily and it does nothing.

My advice, just pay attention and try for the middle ground where everthing is supposed to work.

It is normal to have to cut a tailpiece to fit the particular situation, thats why most of them have the break away scores.

[mitch.capper]

Yep its not overly unsual to do some touchup work to make things work like butter. I installed something similar to a strikemaster II recently and had to do some dremeling myself.

Best thing I can suggest is hand files or the carbide cutter for the dremel.

Just be careful, I am not sure if the bolt expands when extended but if it does and you grind too much off it won't be able to stop it from being pulled out from the strikemaster (if that is something you are worried about).

Anyway yes shave your strikemaster a bit as required to get the bolt to flow well nothing overly abnormal there.

[kizmit]

Thanks for the info mitch!

[raimundo]

Mitchs post said "bolt expands, and I really got an interesting image there,

currently there are some adams rite designs for hook bolts, and while the adams rite is a very robust design against physical attack these hook bolts are not necessarily secure because of that, a large hammer and some kind of drift, or big screwdriver could pound the strike that it hooks into down until it unhooks,

the concept of an expanding bolt, could not be pulled out of the strike, and would give little room to many tools that try it. this would be bolt, that is three pieces, unlike a common bolt, this one would be split in two,vertically or horizontally, along its length, inside these two halves, there would be a channel cut for a mandrel, this mandrel pushes the bolt into the strike, then pushes beyond its groove inside these halves and forces them apart inside the strike.

If you have seen the kind of split mandrel with a wedge as the third piece for putting in very tight places and later being easy to remove because of the wedge