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how to pick a regular bedroom lock.

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

how to pick a regular bedroom lock.

Postby beginner_picker » 11 Jun 2008 4:38

Sorry I don't know what they're called. I've picked my first padlock yesterday. It was nice and wsy because the lock was one of those cheap padlocks people use on suitcases. I just wondering if it's possible to pick this old fasioned lock? It's one of these really old locks where the handle is right next to keyhole (horizontally). It's sooo old we can't copy the keys anymore.

This is my bedroom door. I'm just picking it to see if it's possible LOL.
http://www.geocities.com/steven11_ukuk/Image006.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/steven11_ukuk/Image007.jpg
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Postby l618 » 11 Jun 2008 5:30

You don't really 'pick' those. you could get a warded pick set to get them open, or make some yourself.

warded pick set:
http://www.lockpickshop.com/WP-10.html
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Postby jpb06080 » 11 Jun 2008 11:56

I don't think thats a warded lock, although it definitely has wards. I think its probably got levers, looks like 3 by the look of the key. You'd probably need some kind of hobbes pick to get past it.
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Postby David_Parker » 11 Jun 2008 17:45

Yeah, thats a lever lock all the way. Warded picks wouldn't really work on those. Check out the European Section on curtain picks and the like. They've got better answers.
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Postby freakparade3 » 11 Jun 2008 17:49

It's a wide open area for picking. All you need for that type of lock is 2 pieces of stiff wire. One to lift the levers and one to move the bolt.
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Postby Brianpojo56 » 3 Jul 2008 15:30

I'm pretty sure that's not a lever lock (if it is, it only has the one lever that gives it the dead locking function). If you notice, the flag has perfect symmetry, which also leads me to believe that it's a standard key that only comes precut (you can probably get one from bluedog). It's also a bedroom door so it's very doubtful that it's a lever lock.
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Postby BraveHeart. » 3 Jul 2008 16:58

its not good to pick locks that people actually use.


cause if somethin breaks you in trouble

ive done it before :roll:
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Postby scampdog » 3 Jul 2008 18:15

this is a 3 lever mortice lock, and can be beaten either with a mortice lock lever pick. try out mortice keys(found on a few sites), or wires.
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Postby mkultra23 » 7 Jul 2008 10:45

Nice antique bit-key, 3-lever mortice lock with warding, likely 19th century by the door hardware and key (excellent looking knobset by the way).You can probably purchase these keys pre-cut or as key blanks that you can mill to fit your lock (just remove the lock body from the mortise, open the case and file the key to match the lever gates and any wards present. You might be able to find an original through antique suppliers, I have a few antique keys that are identical to yours and might work your lock (though addtional milling could be required). Check out the ILCO catalog, I think B11M might be an appropriate blank. You can find the exact blank by measuring the diameter of your keys post and the dimensions of the bit(height, width, and thickness). An internet search for antique bit keys might yield an original.
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Re: how to pick a regular bedroom lock.

Postby talbuz » 9 Jan 2009 13:39

There are set of tryout keys for both 2 and 3 lever locks. (http://walkerlocksmiths.co.uk) There are ones on the set with three prongs somewhat similar to that key, (I checked my set), so that could work to open that lock.
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Re: how to pick a regular bedroom lock.

Postby Engineer » 9 Jan 2009 17:56

Yes these are three-lever mortise key & lock alright. eBay occasionally used to have listings of sets of keys that would open 2- and 3-lever Mortise locks.

The keys can still be cut, but finding someone who can do them will be hard. The problem is the side cuts on the key. Not a lot of machines can do them. I've managed to convert my machine to do them, but only when I have access to the lock to make sure the key will fit. The side cuts are not that accurate that I trust them automatically on my machine, since it's not really built for that.

You can get machines that do the side cuts, but they cost more than I was willing to pay for the few keys I'd have to cut like that. In theory, you could get any old shop to cut the front cuts, but make the side ones yourself with a junior hacksaw and finishing off with a file.

The side cuts are wards, remove all the metal down to a central "stalk" and only the front cuts are needed anyway.

My guess is the lock would date from around 1925-35? Actually, if the lock were to be replaced, then that old one would make a nice addition to your collection (or start). Taking it apart and CAREFULLY using the key with the side of the lock off could teach you a great deal about mortise locks and wards. You just have to be careful that none of the levers come out as you slowly turn the key. They can be put back in again if they do come out though.

I have to add my voice to the ones saying DON'T pick locks you use. Only disassemble it; if it has been replaced, or is never going to be used. I too have had locks break when I've been learning how to pick 'em.
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Re: how to pick a regular bedroom lock.

Postby raimundo » 12 Jan 2009 11:36

He says the lock is and interior lock, and the key he shows is definately a five lever, with three of them riding the high bits and two riding the cuts.

The typical interior lock from the old days in the US is not full of levers, and you can buy a pair of two skeleton keys at any hardware or big box store, that will open them. You can also probably open these simple mechanisms with a more complex key such as the one shown, I would not be surprised if that key were originally for a leverlock for the front door that got replaced and the key was relegated to opening interior doors instead.

These locks are simple and self explanatory if you just unscrew them and look inside. as with dissasembling a lot of mechanisms, you should probably get a white marker and mark all the pieces on the upper left of where they are just after removing the cover plate and seeing them all in place, this will prevent getting the parts backward or upside down when reassembling.

engineer is right about the warding cuts, but interior locks have just one tiny piece of the coverplate keyhole sticking out not very far, this is why the thin skeleton keys don't bother to have warding cuts.

I would really thing the key shown, while functioning in an interior lock is actually an exterior door lock from the 30's or 40's likely.
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