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by Squelchtone » 3 May 2009 9:50
This thread seems timely to what I saw on a job site yesterday.
I went out to a customer's pizza shop to pick the locks on the pool table ball return door. All went well, and and as I was waiting for my steak and cheese grinder, I took a walk outside for a minute and on my way back in I noticed both front door locks had black shiny rock hard epoxy in them! I had installed those locks two years earlier, and I went back inside to ask the owner what happened. He said they were on vacation for a week and when they came back that's how they found the front door.
I think there's been some trouble with his business partner who no longer works there, so more than likely that has something to do with epoxy in the locks. He didn't want me to replace them because he said they open and close the business via the back door since the employee parking is out back. Small business owners are funny like that.. sometimes they want a $200 ASSA deadbolt, sometimes they don't want to spend any money at all.. But times are tough so I can't say I blame him, and I didn't push the issue.
I looked at the locks again and I'll tell you, it looked like a potted circuit board that you're not supposed to reverse engineer. There's no way that was coming off.
thanks everyone for contributing your ideas to this thread, Squelchtone

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by EDT » 4 May 2009 8:05
mhole wrote:I think, if you actually read, and absorb the comments left by people *who have actually encountered this problem* you'll quickly see they're all agreed that destructive opening is the only way to open a superglued cylinder.
One guy (not in the forum) told me that he succeeded to unlock his glued lock using aceton and fire, but I don't know what kind of cylinder he had. mhole wrote:If you know how to open the lock destructively, do that. If not, call a locksmith. If you tell them exactly what the lock is, and agree on a price in advance you will be in a better position.
It's hard to bargain on a price in 1:00AM. Moreover, the price of drilling a high security lock like Axira is very expensive (more than the cylinder itself). mhole wrote:A good locksmith may also be able to open the door using a bypass method which cann't be discussed here - this depends on what your cylinder is actually operating.
Can you please speak more about bypass methods (maybe in a private messaage)? I'm looking for a lock that can't be bypassed. I have a main cylinder which operates a geometric lock with 8 bolts (3 directions). I also have a Jewel cylinder. barbarian wrote:Did you get glue in both doors ? Or maybe the place only has one door in.
I live in a condominium, so I have only one door to my apartment. barbarian wrote:If you were lucky enough to somehow get the key to work enough to get inside, then I'm still thinking you need to put on a new lock while you try to fix the old one.
This is what I said.
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by globallockytoo » 8 May 2009 23:10
cryptocat wrote:barbarian wrote:I was thinking about burning the house down.
Uh... this is the open forum. We only discuss non-destructive entry (ie. picking) here.  But for picking music I like upbeat stuff like "firestarter", "the roof is on fire", and "burnin' down the house". Maybe "ring of fire" if a lock is being very uncooperative.
that was funny 
One One was a race horse, one one won one race, one two was a racehorse, one two won one too.
Disclaimer: Do not pull tag off mattress. Not responsible for legal advice while laughing. Bilock - The Original True Bump Proof Pin Tumbler System!
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by adrenalynn » 9 May 2009 2:48
"I'm a Bomb" by Natasha Bedingfield is good too. 10 to zero, mushroom cloud!
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by WOT » 18 Aug 2009 6:33
I used to use super glue a lot when I built models. Hobby model builders use in such a quantity that 4 ounce bottles are not unusual. We often assemble a decent sized model airplanes glued entirely together with super glue.
Of course, with using super glue comes clogged nozzles, contaminated tools, work surfaces etc. Once the glue is hardened or starting to harden, soaking it in acetone only turns it into gooey clump.
Methyl Ethyl ketone works somewhat better.
Nitromethane and GBL works well, because they can be heated to increase solvency as they have a higher boiling point. Methylene chloride is very strong too, but it's extremely volatile.
Now, for simple tools, like tweezers, screw drivers, etc, the solution was to steam them. Super glue will peel off when exposed to hot steam. Not sure how well this will work for locks though.
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by ElAbogado » 30 Oct 2009 0:14
EDT wrote:I need help! Somebody put super glue in the lock of my door, so it's not possible to insert a key to the lock. The police doesn't do anything, and I had to replace the cylinder several times. Is there any substance that can be used to neutralize the super glue without calling a locksmith to pick my lock and replace it?
I worked as a locksmith for a large school district, so we dealt with this issue on a daily basis. We carried a small torch with us and heated the cylinder until it softened the glue allowing a key to open the lock. Remove the key quickly and toss the cylinder, installing a new one. Exposure to the toxic chemicals are not good. If you think superglue is bad... toothpaste is the absolute worst.
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by Rickthepick » 30 Oct 2009 10:11
in repsonse the the original post here,
if its happening frequently have you tried lubing the lock with vaseline or other grease like substance to reduce the effect of superglue if it happens again? Its going to reduce the life of your cylinder as it will attract all kind of debris to stick but its better than calling a locksmith every week
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by Tyler J. Thomas » 30 Oct 2009 19:01
You can always heat up a matching blank or small needle and slowly melt the glue out, but I'd only advise that if replacing it is costly or not possible. A lot of National Locksmith Technitips from the late 80's addressed this issue, makes me wonder if this wasn't the prank of the day back then.
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by ElbowMacaroni » 31 Oct 2009 2:04
EDT wrote:I need help! Somebody put super glue in the lock of my door, so it's not possible to insert a key to the lock. The police doesn't do anything, and I had to replace the cylinder several times. Is there any substance that can be used to neutralize the super glue without calling a locksmith to pick my lock and replace it?
If it's been done several times I'd get pushy with the police to do something... at least try to get fingerprints or something. Whoever is doing it is destroying your property and it's the police's job to do something about it, especially if it keeps happening. Call a county commissioner or the mayor's office and complain about the police not doing their job...repeatedly. Call a local news station, they love to embarrass the local government. Squeaky wheel gets the oil so to say.
"Cave ab homine unius libri"
Beware of anyone who has just one book
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by Clead » 11 Dec 2009 19:07
WOT wrote:Now, for simple tools, like tweezers, screw drivers, etc, the solution was to steam them. Super glue will peel off when exposed to hot steam. Not sure how well this will work for locks though.
I used to work for a Loctite distributor(Loctite has a full line of CA-based adhesives), and we had a LOT of Tech data sheets and material guides with things like % holding strength after Xhours in water/oil/salt water etc. Very few CAs had staying power when exposed to water. In your place, I'd consider trying to get some high-pressure steam in there like WOT mentioned. Also, there are CA-specific solvents for industrial applications. We sold CA for medical manufacturing and small electronics asemblers as well. Check the Loctite website or ask at your local hobby store/industrial adhesive supplier.
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by Mr. Peabody » 12 Dec 2009 8:29
WOT wrote:Methyl Ethyl ketone works somewhat better.
Nitromethane and GBL works well, because they can be heated to increase solvency as they have a higher boiling point. Methylene chloride is very strong too, but it's extremely volatile.
^^ These chemicals could draw alot of attention to you if you try to procure them 
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by WOT » 16 Dec 2009 21:51
Commercial preparation of superglue remover is a blend of mostly nitromethane and a small amount of toluene.
Warm nitromethane or GBL would work the best.
Acetone is gels the glue, but won't remove it. Methylene chloride also works, but it's toxic and too volatile, so you'll be losing a lot to evaporation. GBL has low toxicity, high flash point and volatility is low enough to allow mild heating to hasten the process, but it's highly regulated by the DEA and United Nations.
All of the above will destroy the clear coat on housing though.
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