converting a BEST IC padlock into a 2 position keyswitch

[Quabillion]

Hi all, first post, pics to follow shortly. (To prove ownership and help explain what Im doing)

I have 3 identical BEST brand padlocks that I wish to use for this project. Im certian that I will have to destroy one of the cases to get this project done, due to the fact that I do not have the service key for these locks and highly modify a second case to accept the switches. My plan is to first make a service key by cutting the body of one lock away from the core, then remove the pins and cut a new service key with a file. Im confident I can do this because I have used this tecnique to make a master key for my Americian LOCKOUT locks using the same method. I know that a master key to lockout locks is very dangerous, but I only rarely use them as general padlocks, if I use them at all, so saftey is a non-issue there.

At this point I think I have everything figured out except for the service key blank, not real sure where/possible to get one. I dont have the locks in front of me at this moment, as they are at the house and I am typing this at a restaruant while eating breakfast, so I dont know the exact type of blank I need. I do recall that all the keys are marked with "Do not duplicate" so I am assuming that getting blanks will be difficult if at all possible. If I simply cannot get blanks I am sure that I can make something that will work as a substuite, perhaps adding solder/brazing to one of the change keys bitting.

Before I cut anything up I am wondering if I can simply order a service key using the code stamped on the front of the core. I really doubt that I can, but it never hurts to ask.

More detailed info and pictures/video should be up here later on today, assuming I dont fall asleep all day lol. Also, I am not sure if this is the correct place for this thread, looks good to me but being a noob to this forum I could be wrong. (Mods, please move if needed)

[Quabillion]

Video of my American lockout padlocks and homemade master key
http://youtu.be/vGlYjHFuj-0

Video of the BEST padlocks and keys
http://youtu.be/-UslN0X5K0s

And the photos as well in case anyone cannot see the videos.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq13/quabillion/SU1HLTIwMTEwODA3LTAwMDEyLmpwZw.jpg
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq13/quabillion/SU1HLTIwMTEwODA3LTAwMDEzLmpwZw.jpg
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq13/quabillion/SU1HLTIwMTEwODA3LTAwMDE0LmpwZw.jpg
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq13/quabillion/SU1HLTIwMTEwODA3LTAwMDE1LmpwZw.jpg

[Evan]

Hi all, first post, pics to follow shortly. (To prove ownership and help explain what Im doing)

I have 3 identical BEST brand padlocks that I wish to use for this project. Im certian that I will have to destroy one of the cases to get this project done, due to the fact that I do not have the service key for these locks and highly modify a second case to accept the switches. My plan is to first make a service key by cutting the body of one lock away from the core, then remove the pins and cut a new service key with a file. Im confident I can do this because I have used this tecnique to make a master key for my Americian LOCKOUT locks using the same method. I know that a master key to lockout locks is very dangerous, but I only rarely use them as general padlocks, if I use them at all, so saftey is a non-issue there.

At this point I think I have everything figured out except for the service key blank, not real sure where/possible to get one. I dont have the locks in front of me at this moment, as they are at the house and I am typing this at a restaruant while eating breakfast, so I dont know the exact type of blank I need. I do recall that all the keys are marked with "Do not duplicate" so I am assuming that getting blanks will be difficult if at all possible. If I simply cannot get blanks I am sure that I can make something that will work as a substuite, perhaps adding solder/brazing to one of the change keys bitting.

Before I cut anything up I am wondering if I can simply order a service key using the code stamped on the front of the core. I really doubt that I can, but it never hurts to ask.

More detailed info and pictures/video should be up here later on today, assuming I dont fall asleep all day lol. Also, I am not sure if this is the correct place for this thread, looks good to me but being a noob to this forum I could be wrong. (Mods, please move if needed)

@Quabillion:

Welcome to LP101...

Let's first discuss your padlocks...

Those look to me like factory original keys (or keys punched by an institutional locksmith using the same machine as the factory uses) minus the keyway ID on the blank (yes it is an option)...

The key symbol "DC-29" implies a few things:

First there is a key in the system called "DC-29" of which you have 3 copies...
Second there is a submaster key in the system called "SM DC"...
Third there is a master key in the system called "M D"...
Fourth there is a grandmaster key in the system called "GM ___"...
(Factory stamped GM's usually contain a 3 or 4 character alphabetic code to ID the system...)
Fifth there is a CONTROL key in the system...

If you try to figure out other keys in the system like you did with your American padlocks you will identify the cuts for the GM only... As you have a key for the operating shear line in the core, not the control shear line...

Back to the keyway/keyblank -- they look to be a "D" or a "G" and I am leaning more towards "G"... Readily obtainable through various on-line sources...

As to cutting any key from code for this system, the only one which you know anything about at this point in time is "DC-29"... The codes for each system are unique to each system...

As to cutting a key for Best SFIC by hand with a file, it is possible but you have to be very accurate -- the 10 bitting depths in an A2 system are only .0125" apart -- much more precision is required than for an American padlock...

I am not really sure that using a padlock to make a keyswitch is the best idea (no pun intended) as key operated switches operated by SFIC's are typically based on a mortise cylinder design -- the lock actuator inside a Best padlock is literally just a piece of metal which interacts with the latch in older locks or with the ball bearings in modern ones with two throw pins attached that connect it to the core...

I am not saying that it is impossible but you would be looking at building yourself a Rube Goldberg device to make it do what you want to do and you would be building many parts to create a satisfactory linkage from scratch...

There are a few threads here on how to decode an SFIC core to originate a lost or unknown control key... You typically get lucky and pick a core open to the control line with lockpicks or carefully destroy it in a specific way to keep the pin stacks intact while removing it from its current housing...

Good Luck -- if you have any specific questions feel free to ask...

~~ Evan

[Quabillion]

Thanks for the reply Evan

I was not expecting so many master keys, I figured that there was only one master, one control and one service key. Still though, I am sure I can handle it, just more pins and spacers per stack to keep track of but not impossible.

I agree that this is not the best way to go about a keyswitch, but Im bored with these locks and would like to put them to some kind of use. As for the rube goldberg part, my plan is to cut a notch in the side of the lock body to allow a lever to be attached to the actuator cam that currently controls the ball bearings. With the balls removed, this cam will just move the lever up or down, depending on which way the key is turned, to contact the switches. Im planning to drill a small hole into the side of the cam, then tap threads into the hole and install a screw through the notch to act as the lever.

For mounting the lock body Im going to tap threads into the shackel holes so 2 bolts can be installed through the mounting plate into these holes.

As far as picking these locks, I have tried several times with no success
Im sure there are some security pins in there, and/or Im setting some pins to the control shear line while others are setting at the operating shear line. But no worries about that, I know exactly where to drill to get that core out without hurting it.

[Quabillion]

Well, thanks to the wonderful plethora of information known as LP101 I managed to pick the control line of one of my locks!!


While searching the forum, I found this troque wrench design that I had never heard of before.
So I took some sweeper bristle stock out to the bench grinder and made a crude wrench. Lo and behold it worked on the second try
I was very glad to discover that the holes in the bottom of the control ring had not been enlarged as a countermeasure to this tool.


Now I have the core out of the body without having to drill or cut anything.


I was so excited about this (and still am) I decided to keep moving right along with the project. I was planning to get to this point in several days, not minutes. Here is a pic of the shackel holes with the threads tapped. These will be used to hold the body onto the mounting plate.


And with the bolts and washers installed for a test fit.


Next I got to looking at the cam for a suitable place to drill and tap a hole that I will use to attach the lever. What I found is that due to the way the cam interacts with the end of the core, only clockwise rotation is possible. This is no good for me as I need the lever to go both up and down. So I forgot about the cam and started looking at the end of the core. There are 2 holes in the end that house the pins connecting the end cap to the keyway. One of these holes is in the way of where I want to drill. The hole on the left is the one.


So to solve this problem I broke out the soldering gun and filled in the hole with some plain rosin core electrical solder. The hole will be on the left side of this end peice, looking at this photo the screw will be pointing out at about the 10:30 o'clock position.


Now I will be able to drill and tap a hole here for the long screw that will be the lever. I also might solder on a half moon shaped peice of brass on the right side just to give me more "meat" to drill into. I cant even begin to express how happy I am with this forum and everyone here for helping my project come together. Also for that torque wrench design, which I figure saved me several days/week of waiting on some ordered key blanks to make a control key with, that I now dont need. Plus I really wasnt looking forward to taking that core apart and the tedious handmaking of a key. Now with the tool to pick just the control shear line, I dont see any reason to make a control key.

Sorry about the low picture quality. These were taken with my blackberry camera.
More pics to come soon, as the project moves along.

[Quabillion]

Aaaaannnnd DONE

Got the extra peice of brass soldered into place, cut the notch in the body, drilled and tapped the brass on the back of the keyway, installed the core and put in the screw that will act as a lever.


From this point on, the project is mainly electrical, with some fabricating of the housing to hold everything. Seeing how that stuff isnt really lock related I doubt Ill put much more pics or stuff on this thread as the project progresses, because I dont think yall really want to see that type of stuff on here. Well maybe some pics of the finished product or a link to a video of it working on youtube.

Comments and/or advise is very welcome however.