Help Locked out from my own padlock

[GWiens2001]

Percussive Maintenance.

[minifhncc]

Just curious, why do you use Lockwood?

Personally, I think they're too expensive and Abus seems to do the job... (for me at least)

[treeplant]

Did alot of smackdowns and compressing the shackle, the screw moved in quiet alot but it seems that I am still about 1mm from the target, so close but so far! Can't give up now so something is going to have to give.

I use Abus and Lockwood, one advantage of lockwood that I like is the cylinders are easier to reinstall pins. The bible can be opened up from the top and everything including the springs can slide out nicely. With Abus the bible is closed so the cylinder has to be slid out from the retainer, the top pins and springs pop out everywhere and putting it together takes alot more time.
However I do find Abus more secure and harder to pick. All the lockwoods I have rake quiet easily, a few Abus padlocks I have are very tough to rake and tolerances are higher.

[GWiens2001]

OK. Next opening technique to try... Pack the keyway with C4, Semtex, or similar high explosive. Oops! Destructive entry techniques are advanced forum topics. Forget I said anything.

[mhole]

Looking at the photos you linked to, I can't see any engagement between the cylinder, and the retaining screw. The screw only engages the hardened cylinder retainer, and this pulls the cylinder into the correct depth. As such, you should be able to push the cylinder into the correct position, even if the retainer is sticking out.

If the cylinder won't push back, it's probably because the slot on the tailpiece isn't aligned with the piece which engages the ball bearings. Turning the cylinder whilst pushing it back should allow the pieces to align, or possibly just turn the bearing piece with friction.

If this doesn't work, IMO something else is going on - I don't see how the retaining screw can stop the cylinder seating fully.

If none of this helps, you can drill a small hole through the brass body near the part which turns to lock the ball bearings, and use a probe or pick to rotate this part. Holes in brass repair very easily, just tap in a very tight fitting plug cut from round stock, then file flush.

NB Mods: This isn't a destructive entry technique, as it will only work on a padlock with the plug disengaged from the ball bearing cam, or one where the key is present!

[GWiens2001]

I have thought the same thing about the lock cylinder possibly being able to float freely inside the lock. He may have to grind off part of the bow of the key (but leave the shoulder alone) in order to get the key deep enough past the retainer to fullt engage the cylinder.

[globallockytoo]

i reckon what's happened is the ball bearings are lodged halfway between the shackle and the locking cam and are binding there. that would explain why it is still locked and going nowhere. Stick the padlock in a vice shackle down, taking pressure off the ball bearings and smack the S*** out of the plug. If the key still turns now, before doing what I just said, turn the key and snap the head off then smack the F*** out of it!

[treeplant]

Yep something had to give, I filed down to the screw through the side of the padlock and turned it that way. I was suprised myself how much difference there was between the screws, late night sessions really kill concentreation.

I was thinking to make a cut away lock so now this gives me the perfect excuse

[GWiens2001]

See! Who says violence and destruction never solves anything?

[sandplum]

My condolences for the loss of your lock. Great effort, though. Well done.

[minifhncc]

I use Abus and Lockwood, one advantage of lockwood that I like is the cylinders are easier to reinstall pins. The bible can be opened up from the top and everything including the springs can slide out nicely. With Abus the bible is closed so the cylinder has to be slid out from the retainer, the top pins and springs pop out everywhere and putting it together takes alot more time.

I have a few Abus locks (the 83/45 series I think) and you can rekey them through a "window" (without using a plug follower etc).

[treeplant]

Yes for a simple re-keying abus are quiet convinient, but for cleaning/removing pins and springs everything has to pop out from the sealed bible. When reinserting springs and pins need to use tweezers to pop each pin back in individually and hold it in place over the spring, then click over the barell so the spring does not pop the pin out.

With a loclwood simply remove the retainer over the top of the bible, put in the pins, put in the springs and seal the bible with the retainer plate.

Im not complaining both are good lock

[LockDocWa]

treeplant, Can we get a photo of the retainer cover and the top of the bible?
I'd like to see how easy it is to remove and replace.
Most of the cylinders I have, the retainer is swedged in place,
and can only be removed and replaced a limited number of times.