Unpickable lock for Job Box / Gang Box

[htram516]

Hey everyone!

I'm looking for some help on picking a couple of locks for a job/gang box that I will be using to store firearms in. It's really important to me that no one is able to pick these locks or if they do, it would take them a great deal of time. Here's a link to the box I'm planning on purchasing:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-48-in ... /100130283

If you watch the video you can see that the locks are recessed so there is no real worry about someone trying to cut the shackles, I'm more afraid of someone picking it.

Thanks in advance!!

[averagejoe]

Abloy. The actual kind and not the knockoffs. The only way to get them out of there would be with a key or by destroying the locks.

https://securitysnobs.com/Abloy-Protec2-PL-330-Padlock.html
https://securitysnobs.com/Abloy-Protec2-PL-340-Hardened-Steel-Padlock.html

[GWiens2001]

+1 on the ABLOY. You just ain't gonna pick a Protec.

Gordon

[Squelchtone]

Hello,

I did a write up about this 5 years ago, check it out:

entire post:
http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=43440

my findings:
http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=43440&start=15

if you can verify that the Rigid box installs the padlocks in the same way as my diagram in the above post, then you can use it as a guide for which padlocks may work for you. Since it doesn't seem that this will be a daily work site tool box, using 2 Abloy keys would not be much of a hassle in your case.

If this is going to be unattended in a hunting lodge somewhere for weeks or months at a time, you may consider welding some sort of plates/steel shrouds over the padlock holes so that you have to get your hand up into the hole and insert the key, like some state park gates do to guard the padlocks from direct view and attack.


Squelchtone

[htram516]

Hello,

I did a write up about this 5 years ago, check it out:

entire post:
http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=43440

my findings:
http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=43440&start=15

if you can verify that the Rigid box installs the padlocks in the same way as my diagram in the above post, then you can use it as a guide for which padlocks may work for you. Since it doesn't seem that this will be a daily work site tool box, using 2 Abloy keys would not be much of a hassle in your case.

If this is going to be unattended in a hunting lodge somewhere for weeks or months at a time, you may consider welding some sort of plates/steel shrouds over the padlock holes so that you have to get your hand up into the hole and insert the key, like some state park gates do to guard the padlocks from direct view and attack.


Squelchtone

Awesome write-up. I think I am going to go with the American Lock 5200 from amazon for now and upgrade the cylinders in the future to Medeco. My question now would be, since this would be difficult to pick, how easy would it be to drill the lock open on a stock American Lock 5200 vs an American Lock 5200 + Medeco cylinder? Thanks!

[GWiens2001]

Do they make a Medeco core for the 5200?

Gordon

[Squelchtone]

Do they make a Medeco core for the 5200?

Gordon

In my experience, I had an American Lock Model 3600 that takes other cores.. but someone who deals with American Lock padlocks all day will know if other models have retrofit Medeco cylinder available.

the Medeco catalog says retrofit cylinders are available for the 3600/3700 padlock bodies, also requires proper tailpiece to engage the padlock.
PDF page 80: http://medeco.com/Other/Medeco/Download ... atalog.pdf

3600 on ebay without cylinder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Lock-A ... 5d49fbb690

and here's the 3700
http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Lock-A ... 5405ba1c41

I don't know the difference between the two models off hand, but make sure shackle is long enough so the Jobox's lid hooks can clear with the shackle open, and stay shut with the shackle closed.

good catch Gordon!

Squelchtone

[htram516]

Awesome! Thanks guys -- I'm assuming that the security level on the 3600/3700 is about the same as the 5200 being as I won't changing the cylinder immediately?

[Squelchtone]

Awesome! Thanks guys -- I'm assuming that the security level on the 3600/3700 is about the same as the 5200 being as I won't changing the cylinder immediately?

With the buyout by Master Lock of American Lock we've all seen a decline in manufacturing quality, and I would actually recommend taking your cylinder apart when you get it to make sure there are still 10 serrated pins inside (5 key pins, 5 driver pins) These are what make American Lock padlocks such a chore to pick. If Master cheaps out and starts putting smooth normal pins in, picking becomes much easier. You can see the serrations most of the time by looking into the keyway and up at the first key pin, they are rings milled into the pins, here's a photo of some along with a mix of spool pins (they look like an empty spool of thread) from my Series 50 padlock. The serrated/spool pins have become known by most as spoorated pins thanks to one of the members here.

huge pic:
http://nynex.s5.com/lp101/american_series50_breakdown/14_thats_insane.JPG

how to take apart an American Lock padlock: http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14004

If your lock has these, you're golden, but the Medeco cores offer anti drill protection that the American do not.

Have a good one!
Squelchtone

[cledry]

You cannot put a Medeco cylinder in the 5200 American. The other American you mention is only as secure as the cylinder you choose.

[averagejoe]

Well here's the question. Is it cheaper to buy the American 3600 padlocks and then buy medeco cylinders for them, or just buy a whole high security lock? Medeco cylinders can go for $60-100 or so from a locksmith if you want to be sure to get the right ones.

[Squelchtone]

Well here's the question. Is it cheaper to buy the American 3600 padlocks and then buy medeco cylinders for them, or just buy a whole high security lock? Medeco cylinders can go for $60-100 or so from a locksmith if you want to be sure to get the right ones.

at my work we call that stepping over a dollar to pick up a nickel.

[1mrchristopher]

at my work we call that stepping over a dollar to pick up a nickel.

Oooh, that's good. I could see that working it's way into conversations, especially with commercial customers.

[Squelchtone]

at my work we call that stepping over a dollar to pick up a nickel.

Oooh, that's good. I could see that working it's way into conversations, especially with commercial customers.

Thanks. The same thing can be said for "penny wise, pound foolish".. you know.. the roof is leaking, it will take a $150 to redo the tar on the copper flashing next to the chimney.. but customer doesnt want to spend that money now.. so instead.. a year later $1500 to repoint the chimney bricks at the roof line, repair the rotted plywood around it, install new copper flashing, and then new roof tiles where you had to rip off the old ones to get to the rotting wood, oh, and the tar to seal the new copper flashing.


Squelchtone

[1mrchristopher]

The same thing can be said for "penny wise, pound foolish"

That one I'd heard before, but not the other. It's interesting to me what people are willing to put off with regard to maintenance. My grandfather has always been incredibly...well, we'll say frugal. The family joke is that copper wire was invented when he and his brother fought over a penny. So, now you know, he won't buy a single thing he doesn't truly believe he needs, and then only if he can't make it or fix it himself. In truth though, maintenance is the one thing he'll spend money on without complaint - it's less expensive to maintain than it is to replace. Many of the penny wise, pound foolish people I run into have no concept of that - just one more life lesson that I learned from a great man, that doesn't seem to be taught much anymore.