On handcuffs

[Sinifar]

Look, I just found this new topic, and I don't know about it. It could lead to fun -- or -- late night calls.

There are several handcuff keys, the "standard" one which fits most police type handcuffs, like the cops use, then there is the novelty one which fits most which people buy at sex shops. They do not interchange. The one for the cops is smaller and the other is quite a bit larger. IF nothing else works, one can always shim the things open with a Wieser shim pick. That was my last resort. This also applies to chastity belts, leg irons and any other "personal bondage" equipment.

On the "commercial" key ring, the one for the heavy road unit, there are both common types of cuff keys. Both of mine are slightly bent from the odd angles one has to apply the key to get them out -- and some of the ways one does that is interesting, as you get some of the body weight off the things. Nothing like a bit a WD-40 in the bedroom to change the mood. Not exactly an aphrodisiac.

You would be surprised at the late night calls when we still ran those, and the situations we or I should say I ran into. Not to tell stories out of school, but trust me you would be surprised at the couples who find themselves suddenly trapped even though they have a key and the things are jammed by too much force, or torque on the lock cam mechanism. AND where they got trapped!!! OH LORD !!! Always in some total undress and sometimes dungeon and dragon settings.

Discretion is the biggest part of this type of service. The things you see, and the things you get dragged into -- just do your job and then get out. Usually I get the cash, and a quick shove out the door. Chuckling all the way home, Just another night on the job.

Yes I conceal carry with permit and I am armed just in case the thing goes horribly wrong. One never knows what one is getting into when the phone rings after midnight. Just a word of warning to those who are thinking of getting into the late night release. I am not another "playmate" for them to have fun with, I am a security professional who got out of bed to help them with their situation.

Your mileage may vary -- watch what you do after dark. Always be prepared for the unexpected.

Sinifar

[Sinifar]

A few days of thinking, I should add a few things....

1) If you are going out on ANY night calls, be sure to let somebody at home or the office know where you are going and what your finish time should be. I know you don't know long it will take. Pick an hour or so as a start. Always call in after that time. If you don't have the other party call the cops to come to the site to check on you. Never exceed the time without a CALL.

2) When you are done, call the office with a code message, like - "Job done, inbound." This would tell the office or whomever that all is okay and you are safe, and headed back. ALSO have other phrases to call in with to set off an alarm. Tell the jerks that if you don't call in, the cops will be here shortly as you are overdue. Again have a code phrase like - "Job is taking longer than expected due to a parts problem." That sounds like a normal call into the office to get them off the case, but it is an alarm to call the cops. Have a code phrase to let them know that there is a true problem and it will take longer, like "Job is more difficult than described." Your personal safety and the safety of the gear on your van is more important than any call would bring. Always keep your eyes open.

3) If you are going "inside" late at night, never let anyone get behind you. Have the party who meets you at the door lead the way. You follow and look around carefully before entering and always keep situation awareness. Watch for confederates hiding in corners or behind anything. If this sounds too much like work, then be prepared to get rolled.

4) Same for outside night calls. Look around you before you get out of the van. Keep an eye on anything which could harbor a confederate and be prepared to act in your own interests.

5) If you are going to pack heat, and this is a controversial subject, know how to use it any situation, and be prepared for the consequences of using that. You will have your piece taken. It can be returned by the courts at a later time. You will be arrested and booked. SO plan on having somebody at the office or home prepared to bail you out. The DA will sort it out in the morning. ALSO be prepared for the "injured party's" lawyer and the fun that follows. This comes from my own experience.

6) Back to restraints - you would be surprised how often they have a key but the thing won't open. This is due to liquids getting into the mechanism and rusting - corroding the thing. WD 40 will usually get them open. Other times the pawl is bent on cheap restraints due to pressure on it and now you have a real problem. Here a small punch and a light hammer will get the thing to release. Punch out the center pin, then start working on the pawl, that bar you will see above the ratchet, the thing with the teeth. In time it will let go.

Just a few follow up ideas and thoughts.

Sinifar

[somenewguy]

Have you seen the analysis on making a 'universal' handcuff key? Not for the larger, novelty keys, but for 'real' handcuffs. Look for the "Cuff Stuff" presentation by Deviant Ollam. Probably most of your clients just use standard handcuff keys, but they found an optimized set of bit dimensions that will open many common handcuffs and some not-so-common ones (such as the split pawl type)

[jtucek]

Handcuffs are generally not very sophisticated in their locking mechanism. As mentioned earlier, there are a few keys which can open most of them. See http://vimeo.com/15161400 for a good video which covers the topic -- this includes the dimensions of a handcuff key which opens more or less all common handcuffs.

If you're lazy, just see http://enterthecore.net/equipment.html and search for "handcuff"; the Core Group sells them commercially for just a buck or two. If you're not lazy, the dimensions are available as above, and it really only takes 10 minutes tops with a Dremel.

[somenewguy]

Yep, that's the video I was referring to.

The only thing I am not sure of is where to get a saw with a thin enough kerf to cut that slit in the middle. It only matters for the split pawl cuffs, but it would be nice to get the complete key built...

[Divinorum]

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Very nice spam post with link in the signature Sinfar those are some great recommendations for when out on a call. Especially the code words. I agree it's important to have a safe/not safe phrase so if anything does go wrong at least someone can be alerted under the radar.

[YouLuckyFox]

For an alert word I use "pristine." I only use the word when I'm telling a friend or family member "we need to get OUT of here" in front of people that I want to avoid (in other words, I reserve it in my vocabulary for situations like this.) It's a word I can use when someone says, "how are you?" or "how was your day?" In fact, I ripped off the phrase from the movie "Heist" where Gene Hackman only uses the word when he is trying to tell a crew-mate that the condition has gone south.

[dll932]

I would make sure you don't end up alone with someone of the opposite sex in such a situation. You could end up accused of something later.

[The Lock Artist]

Yep, that's the video I was referring to.

The only thing I am not sure of is where to get a saw with a thin enough kerf to cut that slit in the middle. It only matters for the split pawl cuffs, but it would be nice to get the complete key built...

I am curious about this as well. I cannot find anything thin enough to make the slot. I believe the video says it must be .3mm? I have a plastic copy of the S&w key, it would be cool to make it able to open split pawl cuffs too.

Maybe I could just print up the modded key on a 3D printer?

[spandexwarrior]

Yep, that's the video I was referring to.

The only thing I am not sure of is where to get a saw with a thin enough kerf to cut that slit in the middle. It only matters for the split pawl cuffs, but it would be nice to get the complete key built...

I am curious about this as well. I cannot find anything thin enough to make the slot. I believe the video says it must be .3mm? I have a plastic copy of the S&w key, it would be cool to make it able to open split pawl cuffs too.

Maybe I could just print up the modded key on a 3D printer?

Not sure on the thickness, but when TOOOL released the data and presentation, some folks were making keys at DEF CON and they used the Dremel diamond cutoff wheel - it's much thinner than the others.

-Brian

[smokingman]

I used the thinnest but brittle dremel cutoff wheels for several of these keys and as long as you keep the cut straight it works just fine.

[atmtech3078]

Handcuffs are generally not very sophisticated in their locking mechanism. As mentioned earlier, there are a few keys which can open most of them. See http://vimeo.com/15161400 for a good video which covers the topic -- this includes the dimensions of a handcuff key which opens more or less all common handcuffs.

If you're lazy, just see http://enterthecore.net/equipment.html and search for "handcuff"; the Core Group sells them commercially for just a buck or two. If you're not lazy, the dimensions are available as above, and it really only takes 10 minutes tops with a Dremel.

That is a very interesting and informative video. Thanks for posting the link. I have never tried to pick handcuffs but I now feel confident that I could pick them if needed.
Thanks again,
atmtech3078

[atmtech3078]

Yep, that's the video I was referring to.

The only thing I am not sure of is where to get a saw with a thin enough kerf to cut that slit in the middle. It only matters for the split pawl cuffs, but it would be nice to get the complete key built...

I am curious about this as well. I cannot find anything thin enough to make the slot. I believe the video says it must be .3mm? I have a plastic copy of the S&w key, it would be cool to make it able to open split pawl cuffs too.

Maybe I could just print up the modded key on a 3D printer?

Not sure on the thickness, but when TOOOL released the data and presentation, some folks were making keys at DEF CON and they used the Dremel diamond cutoff wheel - it's much thinner than the others.

-Brian

Acording to Dremel's website, the diamond wheel is 0.6mm but if that is what they were useing at DEF CON it should work. A tip that I thought of is that in place of useing standard paper for shimming, US cash straps (like the ones the bank uses to band their cash) might work well. They are thin but VERY STRONG.
Thanks,
atmtech3078

[Zuben]

You can buy a dozen nylon keys that are smaller than a dime that can be inserted into a slit behind the middle belt loop or the seam on your jean, shorts'.... where they were sewn together. There can not be detected by metal detectors and even a very good pat down will not give them away as they are where seams already have a ridge.

I watched a magician have a policeman handcuff him from behind and in front of an audience, removed them and not one person saw how he did it.

Great trick! I have noticed these keys are being made into the latches of bracelets and boot laces. Pretty cheap and even though it is not picking, it is very efficient.

[KPick]

I'd probably never end up in handcuffs but I would love to know where to buy these I don't know where to get them and they seem cool and to be honest I don't think I'll ever end up in handcuffs but they might come in handy someday