Thinking of upgrading your door security? Getting a better deadbolt or padlock? Getting a new frame or better hinges? Not sure what brand or model to go with for your particular application? Need a recommendation? Feel free to ask for advice here!
by billdeserthills » 7 Aug 2015 22:35
tylerioux wrote:Schlage states that the B series of deadbolts is in fact Grade 1. They only make the one line, not a second lower grade version.
I can't believe that, I guess we can just throw away the more expensive schlage deadbolts
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by Tyler J. Thomas » 8 Aug 2015 5:16
billdeserthills wrote:tylerioux wrote:Schlage states that the B series of deadbolts is in fact Grade 1. They only make the one line, not a second lower grade version.
I can't believe that, I guess we can just throw away the more expensive schlage deadbolts
The B60/62 series is obviously intended for residential. Their 600 series, etc. has a place in the commercial market, especially with regards to key control. Nevertheless, were you speaking from the hip when you said the B60/62 series weren't Grade 1 or do you have actual proof they aren't?
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by Tyler J. Thomas » 8 Aug 2015 9:08
That's a typo on Home Depot's part. The entire B60 series is Grade 1. The only other residential series by Schlage is the JD60 series and that's Grade 3. It's funny how detached most of this board is. Study after study after study has shown that the overwhelming majority of burglars don't utilize methods that would target the lock vulnerabilities you are all discussing. Most of you crap on Home Depot's selection but they're selling Grade 1 locks that are, arguably, very applicable to what most residential consumers should be looking for in a lock based on how burglars typically operate. This wasn't the case just a few years ago. Grade 1 means a 1 inch throw, 1,000,000 cycles, and the ability to withstand 10 strikes of 150 ft/lbs of force and still function. The last requirement is no fault of Schlage or any manufacturer. It's BHMA standards. Can the average human generate more force than 150 ft/lbs in a kick? Sure, but...walk right down the same aisle and get a StrikeMaster II or similar door frame reinforcement product.
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by knowspicker537 » 10 Aug 2015 15:21
All locks sold at home Depot can be picked by any proficient locksmith I. Under 3 minutes non destructively, except the kwikset smart key but that's a whole other topic, so if your worried about burglers with any lock picking experience your out of luck. I myself have had my house broken into and this spurred my interest in lockpicking, though what most burglers and the people who broke into my house did was break a window on a door and just reached in to unlock the lock so there's that too.
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by Shifty1 » 11 Aug 2015 10:22
All gripes aside good luck picking on of these new 4 spool beasts....much less this bumping nonsense. 
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by Jburgett2nd » 11 Aug 2015 23:59
It's sad but true, people prefer the illusion of security rather than actual security.
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by MatrixBlackRock » 12 Aug 2015 5:55
Jburgett2nd wrote:It's sad but true, people prefer the illusion of security rather than actual security.
That's why companies like ADT and Brinks are raking in fortunes installing $99 "security systems" that are really nothing more then reoccurring monthly revenue generators. Wayne
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by Tyler J. Thomas » 12 Aug 2015 11:57
Shifty1 wrote:All gripes aside good luck picking on of these new 4 spool beasts....much less this bumping nonsense. 
That's why my keys have what I call a "10" depth at the tip. Can't bump 'em the bottom pin is always projecting above the shearline on keys cut to factory specs or even all 9's.
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by Corvid » 20 Aug 2015 19:11
How did you make your custom key pin? Find some good bar stock, or did you employ a tiny lathe??
Either way, I like the simple solution!
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by Evan » 23 Aug 2015 5:08
Corvid wrote:How did you make your custom key pin? Find some good bar stock, or did you employ a tiny lathe??
Either way, I like the simple solution!
@Corvid: If a person has access to a universal pin kit (such as a Lab .003 or .005) you can usually find an appropriately sized pin that is one increment larger than the largest pin size available from your lock's OEM. One size too big for your lock can be a standard size used by another type of lock. All you would need in the situation is key cutting equipment capable of producing out of spec cuts on the key. ~~ Evan
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by thetrh51 » 23 Aug 2015 10:19
@evan
That's freaking genius man. I'll have to try that out. Add that to my collection of spools on my front door. I am wondering how you are getting the pin to drop below the warding when the key is inserted though.
"OH YEAH, PICK THIS!"
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by kwoswalt99- » 23 Aug 2015 12:17
The pin hole would have to be drilled a little deeper.
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by Evan » 23 Aug 2015 18:10
kwoswalt99- wrote:The pin hole would have to be drilled a little deeper.
@kwoswalt99: Actually it wouldn't. most locks are capable of being "construction keyed" which means that the factory can cut the keys deeper and the longer pin stack will fit in the pin chambers just fine, they have no need to make longer standard pins for the locks since it is a temporary feature and small ball bearings in the pin stack make the magic work. ~~ Evan
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by kwoswalt99- » 23 Aug 2015 18:28
Learn something new every day, I guess. 
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