New Safe - Strange Locking Mechanism

[GWiens2001]

Had to do that with a safe that is now in my garage. It weighs 3000 - 3500 pounds, and weighs more than some of the cars I work on. So yes, the flat-bed tow truck idea is very valid.

Gordon

[74TR6]

The tow truck roll back may be your best choice. Look for a smaller, local company that will be interested in the quick, extra move. A company here has quoted me $75 to $100 a couple of times. They insisted I do all the rigging; they would load and haul 10 miles. Safe was small cannonball style

I normally use a 5 x 10 ft tilt bed utility trailer (single 3500 lb axle), and have moved many safes with no problems. I carry two heavy duty come-a-longs and a number of straps and chains

Know you are out the rental expense of trailer that didn't move your safe, but your comments on attempted load contain some concerns. The ramp being in way of forks and the angle of the ramp are concern. Was this a fold down ramp? It may not have been strong enough of safe weight and the angle is a bit steep for loading. Be careful

[djed]

My thanks to all. I'll post an update when I have one.

Glad I stumbled upon this site. Very nice group.

[Jord Knaap]

Hi, some of you mite know how I am.

Just some Idea, why don't buy my safe transporter



Greetings Jord Knaap

[Squelchtone]

Hi, some of you mite know how I am.

Just some Idea, why don't buy my safe transporter



Greetings Jord Knaap

Jord! That transporter is fantastic!!

Great to see you on here,
Squelchtone

[djed]

So some good news. The construction crew building the McMansion across the street used their bobcat and a sling to get the safe out of my truck. I then used a pallet jack (and two guys) to pull/push the safe up my sloped driveway into my driveway behind a locked gate. There was no way we were going to cross my grass with the safe and pallet jack to get the safe into my workshop (we would have sunk).

The safe opened on the first try and I started taking pictures to remind me what I did and will be doing.

The first set of pictures is of the lock cover and how it holds down the Relocking pins:

http://imgur.com/a/L4aB1
http://imgur.com/3M9gn6r
http://imgur.com/axVWiD4

The second set of pictures shows the top pryed up enough to see the concrete/cement inside the safe and the weld point (which the pictures actually don't show) on the bottom of the top cover and connected to a rod coming up from the concrete.

http://imgur.com/a/6oIzV
http://imgur.com/Zbbfily

The third set of pictures shows the S&G 6700 lock as well as the placement of a spring between the locking arm (I think that's what it's called) and the bolt.

http://imgur.com/a/xCjCx
http://imgur.com/EEVg1kO

I took a picture of what I believe is a missing lock pin in the handle.

http://imgur.com/XzlYd0r

By opening the door fully open, I was able to remove the door from this beast and took a fifth set of pictures showing the hinge pins, hinge pin bearing, and washer/race that the door sits on.

http://imgur.com/a/NIA3q
http://imgur.com/GfclFqz
http://imgur.com/g1orndw
http://imgur.com/TQcF2zX
http://imgur.com/wdowArL

All small parts are now in a ziploc bag

I spent about an hour sanding the safe and applying "Goof Off" to clean the safe for yet more sanding and ultimately a fresh coat of enamel paint (battleship grey).

My next step it's to tear the lock apart to clean it and hopefully fix the "drag" I feel in the wheel. The dial ring is definitely flush to the safe.

[djed]

There is definitely "in-and-out" play in the dial. My guess is the play is between 1/16 and 1/8 of an inch.

[djed]

Also just spent some time looking - the sticky dial seems like it **may** be due to the dial riding higher at points than others. Could this be due to a bent spindle?

Sorry for creating new replies. The system doesn't seem to allow me to edit my prior posts.

[djed]

More pictures, including lock disassembly (but still sticky):

http://imgur.com/GJhUnHo
http://imgur.com/Q352HCW
http://imgur.com/ZQMTPTN
http://imgur.com/Mkq4Efz

Hardware disassembly:

http://imgur.com/HggRRp9
http://imgur.com/nfaPdZR
http://imgur.com/gPc41dN
http://imgur.com/REVT1hg
http://imgur.com/26K9xwY
http://imgur.com/LUmuGNx
http://imgur.com/L9HfsZH

I'm guessing my next step is to order a new dial and lock unless you guys can chime in with help.

Alternatively, I can just live with the sticky dial.

[kwoswalt99-]

I wouldn't buy a new lock, as it looks to be in good shape. Is there drag when the lock is completely assembled and off the safe?

[djed]

I wouldn't buy a new lock, as it looks to be in good shape. Is there drag when the lock is completely assembled and off the safe?

Thanks for the reply.

Yes - there is significant drag in both directions with the lock off the safe. I think there is more drag one way than the other but I can't remember which direction.

When disassembled, the wheel pack was more or less clean. The washers were dirty but I cleaned them with a clean diaper. (No lint).

One thing I noticed was there is no Delrin bushing on my dial ring. The dial actually mates with the dial ring.

Please keep the suggestions coming as I'm stumped.

Thank you.

David

[Raymond]

I agree that that dial and ring probably do not need replacing.

There is a lot of crud (technically correct safeman's term) on the bearing surface of the drive wheel. Clean it off and apply a trace of light grease when reinstalling. Do not get anything on the tab that turns the next wheel.

The dial and dial ring show an obvious screwdriver pry mark. This could have resulted in a bent dial. It can be straightened with some cautious and selective hammering. This old model did not use a delrin bushing between the dial and dial ring. Since there is no bushing, with the lock installed, push the dial tight and flat up against the dial ring and see if the spindle is centered in the hole on the lock body. If it is canted to one side that is a clear indication that the spindle is bent and you will know which direction to tap to straighten it. Remember that if the dial ring has moved out of center it will give the same indication as a bent dial. So, you can loosen the dial ring screws and slide the ring around to see if the spindle comes through straight. You are trying to get the dial exactly flat and square in the dial ring hole.

The wheel post looked clean but VERY dry. It will need a very light application of light grease when replacing the wheels. Like, get your fingers greasy and just wipe the residue on the post and inside the wheel hole. Put nothing on the fly.

If none of this eliminates the tight drag you can try making a shim washer to raise the dial .005" in case it is dragging on the screw heads or something. Where the dial enters the dial ring apply good light grease adeuately.

Currently S&G specifies Aeroshell 22 grease. But, light weight white lithium, lubriplate, or moly d can be used. Do not spray with a liquid lube as it can migrate to where it should not be.

[djed]

Thank you.

Take a look at the fourth picture in my February 14th (4:36p) post (Copied here for ease of reference - http://imgur.com/Mkq4Efz). After reassembling, I tested the dial spin without the dial ring but with the weight of the dial spinning the wheel pack. It was from that action that I concluded that the drag was still present. Hopefully, that was a valid test.

I had already cleaned the "crud" out but I also cleaned the sheen of grease (somewhat contaminated) that was on the wheel post. I will disassemble the lock and re-grease as per your instructions (being sure to avoid putting grease on the flys but perhaps reapplying the slightest amount of grease to the spacing washers.

I'll also wait for my wife to take my daughter to school before I use her granite kitchen counter-top to test the dial for true flatness. Because of the upside down test illustrated in the above picture, I'm guessing that the drag is in the wheel pack and not in the dial/dial ring position. Or it could be in the spindle as you noted in your post. Before removing the spindle to test the dial for flatness, I'll take my square and see if the spindle is 90 degree perpendicular in the dial. I'll have to revisit the dial to see how to remove the spindle.

I hadn't mentioned it before but there were slight "burrs'" on the tops of one or two of the flys Although I would have expected perfectly smooth rings, I didn't think they made a difference. Was I wrong?

I'm working at a client site tomorrow but will report back when I am able.

David

[Squelchtone]

Hi,
your last posted pic on imgur says 'spun - still stuck' Do you have some friction while spinning the dial or is the dial stuck and will not turn at all? is this when just spinning the dial clockwise or counterclockwise 5 or 6 times around or is the dial getting stuck when you dial the actual combination?

There may be a relocker mechanism on the bolt which locks up when the back cover is removed. If you put the back cover on, it disables the relocker, then dial the dial with no dial ring just as in that photo is there still the same drag you are feeling? I had one S&G lock that only had drag when the cover was installed, turned out someone hit the back cover with a hammer, and the spline key was grinding against the cover plate on every revolution.

Squelchtone

[djed]

Do you have some friction while spinning the dial or is the dial stuck and will not turn at all? is this when just spinning the dial clockwise or counterclockwise 5 or 6 times around or is the dial getting stuck when you dial the actual combination?

Friction - not stuck. Friction occurs when spinning in both directions.

There may be a relocker mechanism on the bolt which locks up when the back cover is removed. If you put the back cover on, it disables the relocker, then dial the dial with no dial ring just as in that photo is there still the same drag you are feeling?

I think the relocker is built into the lock bar but I'll give it a try tonight.

David