New Safe - Strange Locking Mechanism

[Raymond]

That lock has no relocker. In one of the pictures we can see that it has been removed.

"I tested the dial spin without the dial ring but with the weight of the dial spinning the wheel pack." This is not a valid test for dial straightness. It normally only implies that the wheels, spacers, wheel post, and the drive wheel where pressure is applied by the weight of the dial to the top of the wheel post do not have adequate lubrication.

All this time I thought the drag came while the lock and dial were installed.

Burrs on the flys should not be there but if they are not rubbing against anything there should be no problem.

[djed]

Raymond,

The dial drag was originally felt when the dial was fully installed in the door. It was suggested earlier in the thread that I disassemble the lock to clean the wheel pack in case that was the source of the drag.

I just got home and it's 10:30pm so I won't disassemble and grease the lock components (wheel post, spacers and drive camber end) until tomorrow (assuming I have the proper grease available).

The other project I will be tackling tomorrow will be to weld some points on the outer shell ( so the shell is harder to pry open and thereby prevent access to the concrete which I'm guessing could be easily chipped away with a hammer drill). The construction of this safe is an outer steel shell lining filled with concrete (hopefully steel reinforced) surrounding an inner hardened steel locking box. Once the welds are complete, I'll give it one more sanding and apply the new coat of enamel paint.

David

[djed]

It rained today in California so I couldn't get to welding but I did take the dial off the lock with the hopes of getting the spindle off the dial.

However, I can't figure out from looking at the dial and spindle how to take the spindle off so I can test the dial for flatness. Honestly, it looks like the dial and spindle mate together pretty well. I tried turning with a pliers but the spindle wasn't having any part of turning.

Please see attached:

http://imgur.com/QOCuPr2
http://imgur.com/jdiT2XY
http://imgur.com/gQhy8lo
http://imgur.com/pPQtO8L

[Raymond]

You are asking for trouble if you take the spindle out of the dial. It can be removed, and we do it all the time, but, there is no need to remove it. It is pressed in and has to come straight out. In your situation removing the dial from the spindle will only create more problems you are not prepared to solve.

From all the previous info you have given I no longer believe the spindle is bent. I think you should get it back together with all the proper lubrication and see if there is still any dragging. Gentle hammer tapping at that time will adequately straighten it.

Good luck. I'm through.

[kwoswalt99-]

From all the previous info you have given I no longer believe the spindle is bent. I think you should get it back together with all the proper lubrication and see if there is still any dragging. Gentle hammer tapping at that time will adequately straighten it.

I'd use a brass hammer, or maybe even lead, as I'd probably ding it up otherwise.

[djed]

A quick update. I disassembled the lock, greased the spacing washers, greased the wheel post, and greased the drive camber (I think that's what you call it) and the wheel pack spins a bit smoother. It's still not "free spinning" but that may be attributable to the lock not being mounted on the safe door. That said, it does spin better. As I start to learn more about this safe lock, it appears to me that the drag is primarily with wheel 1 (the one closest to the dial), to a lesser degree with wheel 2, and not at all with wheel 3. If I had an additional .005 spacer (which I don't), I would take an earlier suggestion to insert a spacer before wheel 1 and 2.

If Raymond is still reading - thank you!!

David

[djed]

Welded and first coat of enamel applied:

http://i.imgur.com/hluQDKL.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sVj9w06.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VTggTkv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/78NuKaz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/r5DC0j5.jpg

There is a noticeable run on the front which I will sand once the first coat has dried sufficiently.

The inside (hardened steel) didn't sand too well so I'm leaving it as is with the rough finish.

I had previously used the POR 15 2K Urethane "hardnose" paint but switched to the Rustoleum enamel since the POR 15 product didn't lay out too well in my last efforts (even properly thinned and sprayed on). I am interested to see how well the Rustoleum enamel holds up when I move the safe.

[djed]

My thanks to all. The safe and lock are now reassembled. With the lubrication and dial ring tapping, I seem to have minimized the drag. The only problem I still seem to have is one of the four screws that hold down the lock cannot screw all the way in. I don't own a tap and die set so I'm going to see if I can borrow one from a friend.

Pictures are linked:

http://imgur.com/NW7gbs6
http://imgur.com/V0Eudzc
http://imgur.com/cLR2Mzz
http://imgur.com/UnrUKYv
http://imgur.com/hWIuWP4
http://imgur.com/BuFQyNV

The safe is now listed on Craigslist for what I believe is a modest price. Unless I can come up with a solution, I just don't have the means of lifting this safe (I have information that suggests it weighs about 1,300lbs) into my office. Even getting the safe to tilt (to paint the bottom) has not been possible.

[Squelchtone]

looks great! thanks for sharing the progress pics with us!

[billdeserthills]

My thanks to all. The safe and lock are now reassembled. With the lubrication and dial ring tapping, I seem to have minimized the drag. The only problem I still seem to have is one of the four screws that hold down the lock cannot screw all the way in. I don't own a tap and die set so I'm going to see if I can borrow one from a friend.

Pictures are linked:

http://imgur.com/NW7gbs6
http://imgur.com/V0Eudzc
http://imgur.com/cLR2Mzz
http://imgur.com/UnrUKYv
http://imgur.com/hWIuWP4
http://imgur.com/BuFQyNV

The safe is now listed on Craigslist for what I believe is a modest price. Unless I can come up with a solution, I just don't have the means of lifting this safe (I have information that suggests it weighs about 1,300lbs) into my office. Even getting the safe to tilt (to paint the bottom) has not been possible.

Instead of trying to tap what may be hardplate,
I would prolly grind some threads off the bottom of that screw. Best to put a nut on it first, then hit the grinder

[djed]

Hard plate. Good point. I forgot about that.

[djed]

Guys,

I need help. I think I messed something up when I went to change the combination.

First thing, I need to know which of the following is more likely to be my change index:

A) http://i.imgur.com/n6fJw3e.jpg

Or

B) http://i.imgur.com/GJiYALA.jpg

My better guess is (A). Oddly, the square hole lines up with the squares in the wheels and the change hole in the cover when I lined the wheels up with the open index.

That said, the combination is completely messed up. When I track the combo associated with the gates, it seems that the numbers change every time. There is a noticeable clicking sound when the dial (on the open index) lines up with 10.

What other information can I provide? I'm at "Procedure 2" in the S&G change instructions.

Thank you.

David

[GWiens2001]

"A" is your change index. You will be able to tell because I said so. (If you believe that second part, I have a bridge to sell you on Lake Havasu in Arizona.

Seriously, when you have dialed to the change index (Yes, it is "A"), you will be able to fit the change key in the hole in the back of the lock.

Gordon

[billdeserthills]

If your wheels will no longer line up, you'll hafta remove the back cover and line them up yourself, at the change index.
I like to use an icepick & put it through the wheels change key hole. Then turn all three wheels until the icepick falls into
the hole that helps orient your change key--Then put the back cover on and try again

[djed]

Sorry to be dumb.

Lined up like (c) with the drive cam engaged or (d) with the gates lined up but the drive cam not engaged?

(C) http://imgur.com/VvNRBv8
(D) http://imgur.com/4lP88He

Then, my understanding is I replace the cover, insert the change key, rotate the change key 90 degrees counterclockwise, dial the new combination to the change index, rotate the change key clockwise, remove the change key, and test multiple times (+/- 1 stop) with the door open.