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Masterlock #5...Something Better

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Re: Masterlock #5...Something Better

Postby C158 » 29 May 2016 12:24

Thanks for the reply...ya, I read his response. I am not going to be in those situations, but agree with him.

One box, in your garage it has two locks on the box. Would you prefer key retained or non?
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Re: Masterlock #5...Something Better

Postby ARF-GEF » 29 May 2016 16:15

I'd go for key retaining.
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Re: Masterlock #5...Something Better

Postby C158 » 29 May 2016 18:29

What would be your reasoning givin my purpose?


Also, others can chime in the. More opinions the merrier!
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Re: Masterlock #5...Something Better

Postby ARF-GEF » 30 May 2016 2:57

I wouldn't forget to relock it after use. But I wouldn't mind having the no retianig either. I really don't think it's much of an issue for most users.
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Re: Masterlock #5...Something Better

Postby C158 » 3 Jun 2016 16:40

Best Solution found (imo) will update this post this weekend with my findings......
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Re: Masterlock #5...Something Better - Ridgid Jobsite Box

Postby C158 » 3 Jun 2016 20:49

After much research of what to get for a Ridgid Jobsite box this is what I found:

The most important thing I came to realize is you want to make sure you get a 1" shackle clearance, you then want to confirm with the dealer that "X" lock really is 1" by having them measure it over the phone with you (trust me). That said, if need be it can handle a 1 3/16" shackle height. I do not suggest that as there will be less of the lock body making contact with the box hook. Second most important thing is width. The box can handle exactly 57.16mm of width or just over 2 1/4" These two dimensions are most important. The third important factor, but can be fudged is shackle thickness. Ridgid boxes come with fasteners that attach the shackle to the box. If you need clarity on that let me know and I will try to upload pics. If you get a shackle too big the "U" shaped fastener wont go around it, also the holes the fastener goes through on the box will be too small for what I am about to mention BUT that is easily solved by drilling out larger holes - would take 10 minutes max. Max shackle diameter is 3/8" 10mm - 11mm will work too, but you have to "snap" the U over and then it seats perfectly in the U (I know this for fact). Now, if you went with larger yet shackle diameter you will need to go to the hardware store to buy a a larger "U" shaped nut. That problem is then solved. Then you need to drill out larger holes - very easy no big deal......

OK, with that out of the way onto the locks.....

With the above specs you could wither go with the Abloy PL330 or Abus Nickel Padlock(Medium). These WILL work. However, I wanted to go with a Steel body, which makes things a weeee bit trickier. I ended up going with the Abloy PL342 (Shrouded) I got shrouded because the non shrouded version shackle height it too tall, so that is what I went with. You can also use the Abus Shrouded Steel Padlock (Medium). If you choose Abus, you have the ability for non-key retaining - which could be nice depending on your needs. If you choose Abus, you can expect the lock to stick out about 1/4" or slightly more. ALSO, Noted anywhere you look the Abus notes a 1" shackle clearance for their shrouded model. I called and had them measure for me and it actually is 1 1/8" (again box specs allow for 1 3/16" MAX) so it SHOULD still work, but that is good for you to know. The Abloy when measured comes to exactly 1"; it also when locked fits perfectly flush with the box making it more appealing. The washers noted above fit great with the Abloy (10mm) The ABUS is 11MM and you have to press them on VERY firmly over the threads then snaps right into place.

I chose Abloy on a whim as I just so happen to live fairly close to Security Snobs so was able to check both bodies out. The chrome plating was better imo on the innards with the Abloy - it was quite noticeable to me. Just better finished. They also use Boron Steel while Abus does not. Pair that with the fact Abloy is still made in Finalnd and it helped my choice. The only downer for me was the key retaining, I would have preferred non. So I set out on a solution to make things a bit less painful in that regard....

For my keys I got one of these, this makes taking one key off effortless and makes opening the box cake. It is well made and does not make your keys anymore cluttery than they already are - and actually makes them more organised.

http://www.amazon.com/Troika-Patent-Key ... X3A7ME0HAX


After getting everything put together the box works great wit the Abloy PL342, while a bit over the top one can rest assured the lock is not the weak point in the set up :wink:

Feel Free to ask any questions!
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Re: Masterlock #5...Something Better

Postby GWiens2001 » 3 Jun 2016 21:58

I was wondering how important a boron shackle is if the lock is inside a cavity on the box.

Gordon
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Re: Masterlock #5...Something Better

Postby Squelchtone » 4 Jun 2016 0:00

C158: Thanks for writing up your findings. This is probably too late to help you any, but I fixed the broken images on my 2009 post about Jobox box padlocks, you may enjoy looking over it. http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=43440&start=15#p327960

Thanks for following up with your project!
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Re: Masterlock #5...Something Better

Postby C158 » 4 Jun 2016 11:48

Gordon, You are right I doubt in this particular case it would help much. It was just an added bonus. In the future if these lock(s) need to be used for a different purpose exposing the shackle it will help then - hopefully.

As stated, the locks in this case are over the top, but with the specs I had to work with along with my desired body material I was left with only top tier choices and so I went for it.

Thank you for the pics. The Ridgid box retains the lock a bit different, I will try to post pics later. Might be good for people to see the difference.
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