Lost Key for ignition..need advice

[Justin005]

Hi,
So here's my dilemma.

Lost key to my 2000 Lincoln town car. Called a locksmith, he made a key according to my vin number. However, it doesn't work. Apparently the ignition was changed at some time before I owned it.

Locksmith wants me to remove the ignition tumbler so he can re key it. But the only way to remove the ignition is to drill it out and damage it beyond repair. ( and remove the steering wheel, clockspring, airbag, etc.)

Is there a way to get the ignition to turn without damaging it so it can be removed for rekeying?


According to the service manual, the ignition can be removed for reinstallation, if it is in the run position. But without the keys, I can't turn it.

I tried Jiggler keys but they did not work. Perhaps a bump key?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks

[billdeserthills]

Sounds like a sidebar lock in the ignition, which makes it unpickable. Did your door key also fit the ignition?

Buying a new ignition isn't a huge cost, you can likely get one at the auto parts store for $20-$25

Getting the old one out incorrectly can destroy the steering column, which is more work to repair than paying to have a real
locksmith destroy & remove the old ignition lock.

[Squelchtone]

Hi,
bump keys don't work on wafer locks and auto ignitions are typically wafer locks.

Since you are new here, you probably haven't had a chance to read over the forum rules, but because cars are such a high theft item, we don't publically discuss automotive lock picking, drilling, or other forms of getting them to turn or to remove them. There's a special area vetted members can discuss car stuff, so as long as we are just helping you with the next logical steps on what do to and not posting actual instructions of how to do it (dont want to be teaching some bad guys how do steal a Lincoln, right?) then I'll move this post to Ask a Locksmith - This Old Lock and out of the Ask Hobby Lockpicking Questions area.

Your next best step is to have a mobile locksmith come to you instead of you mucking around drilling or prying the ignition out. Just don't call some random person in the phone book, there are too many scammers going around. If you tell us your city/state we can find a *real* mobile locksmith, not some fly by night cowboy with a dewalt drill and harbor freight tools in the trunk of his honda accord.

As for doing it yourself, like I said, we don't know you enough to let you into the Automotive area, and we don't want to teach someone with bad intentions who find this forum after you how to get a Lincoln ignition out, so we unfortunately cannot post instructions for you to do this work yourself. If someone here wants to help you one on one via Private Messages, then I have no issue or control over that.

Squelchtone

[Justin005]

Fair enough, my zip code. Is 10312.

If you can recommend a reputable locksmith, I'd be willing to give it a go.

[billdeserthills]

Make sure you get a price quote and don't let them change it either

[Squelchtone]

Fair enough, my zip code. Is 10312.

If you can recommend a reputable locksmith, I'd be willing to give it a go.

http://www.richmondlockandkey.com/

http://www.yelp.com/biz/frank-key-servi ... ten-island

http://amboylocksmith.com/automotive-locksmith/

[GWiens2001]

The Lincoln Towncar does not use a sidebar lock.

A decent locksmith should be able to impression a key easily enough, or be able to pick the lock easily. I'd think an automotive locksmith would have a Lishi pick or something along those lines to pick it and read the pins.

There should be no reason to drill.

Gordon

[billdeserthills]

The Lincoln Towncar does not use a sidebar lock.

A decent locksmith should be able to impression a key easily enough, or be able to pick the lock easily. I'd think an automotive locksmith would have a Lishi pick or something along those lines to pick it and read the pins.

There should be no reason to drill.

Gordon

Unfortunately though since this car is equipped with a transponder it makes little difference to the o/p

[Squelchtone]

When I hear lost key and its a transponder, Im easily figuring any mobile locksmith who comes out has enough work in front of them to charge $300 for the job.

Just putting that here so OP isnt surprised by any of the quotes he gets.

Squelchtone

[Justin005]

I agree with Gordon, as far as not drilling. As long as I can turn the ignition to pull out the tumbler, I'm ok with installing a new ingnition and having it programmed.

I was going to [EDIT hey,,didn't we discuss that talking about destructive entry techniques is not allowed here?] but am afraid of damaging the transceiver in the column.

Apparently no one wants to read the pins in the car, they'd prefer to drill it.

Thanks again for your advice

Justin

[Justin005]

One more question...
What should I ask the locksmith, if they can code the ignition in the car, or if they can make an impression of the ignition in the car?

Or something else?

Thank you

[GWiens2001]

Pull one of the door locks. That will give you most of the key cuts, leaving only a couple to impression.

And Bill is right that the key will need to be programmed. But it is easy enough to program, and a heck of a lot cheaper than a new steering column.

A screwdriver would be a very bad idea. You will not get enough leverage to force the lock to turn, and WILL damage the internals.

Gordon

[Justin005]

Hi, spoke to the locksmith, he said the door cylinder doesn't have the same amount of wafers as the ignition and Therefore can't be used to make a proper key?

Doing some google searching and came across the [EDIT: bypass discussion is prohibited here] but this only says it will be applicable for 1984 to 1996 &1/2 vehicles.

Will this work? Or is there another [EDIT: bypass discussion is prohibited here] tool out there?

I don't mind breaking the ignition, just want to avoid pulling the airbag, steering wheel, etc.

Thanks

[GWiens2001]

As previously stated, the door cylinder will give you most of the cuts, leaving only a couple cuts to impression.

Gordon

[Justin005]

Is this ignition a 10 wafer type ignition?

I've seen [EDIT: bypass and destructive entry discussion is prohibited here] which say 1996 and up but not sure if they will work for this application.