Got a question about key machines? not sure what to buy? need a user manual? have some tips for keeping one running well or need help cutting or programming keys? Post here!
by Tyler J. Thomas » 15 Aug 2017 19:07
I have a narrowed view of the locksmith world: my shop.
I'm trying to find out what other locksmiths use to cut keys by code. So, whatcha using?
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by RedE » 15 Aug 2017 19:31
I love the Framon 2 that I have. It always cuts exact and is straightforward to use. The only thing I don't really like about the Framon is that it's occasionally difficult to find certain parts and cutting wheels for.
When I was shopping around for a code machine, one locksmith let me try out his HPC Blitz. If definitely cuts keys quicker than the Framon, but I really didn't like the process of using code cards and lining the needles against them... it just seemed too easy to miscut a key if you weren't looking at the card dead on.
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by GWiens2001 » 15 Aug 2017 19:41
I use the HPC Blitz 1200CMBX for the standard keys, a Framon Sidewinder with D&S keys for laser, sidewinder and Mul-T-Lock type keys, a Herty Gerty to code cut tubular keys, a Best key combinator (punch) for SFIC, and an Abloy Disklock key machine to cut... you guessed it... Abloy Disklock and Disklock Pro. Yes, the Blitz can cut tubular keys, and they do work, but they look different when compared to a standard tubular key. I'd trade the Blitz tubular key kit (only cut one key) for a Tibbe kit, if anyone has one to swap. (Or you can send what you'd want for the Tibbe kit.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by billdeserthills » 15 Aug 2017 20:50
I use my Dad's old Framon 2 in the shop, but I don't do much with codes I prefer impressioning keys to locks that don't easily come apart. If the thing comes apart, in my van I'd be using depth keys. I'm a step away from those old time dinosaurs-- In other news I saw a distributor trying to charge $500 for an Ilco 008 key machine today 
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by tpark » 15 Aug 2017 21:43
I originally bought a Pak-A-Punch to cut keys, but it's limited in what it can punch out, plus it's not super accurate. The Framon 2 that I have has been great - very accurate, easy to use. It's especially handy for the situation where you're making keys and you're having to figure out depth and spacing. The cutters are relatively expensive though. You can get away without some of them (like the SFIC cutter) but it's way faster with the right cutter.
If you're cutting a lot of keys to code, some kind of programmable machine might be in order, or if you have office towers full of SFIC cores as clients, a decent punch would be in order. If you need to originate keys but aren't doing a huge volume, I bet the Framon 2 will meet your requirements.
I am primarily a hobbyist, so take my opinions with a grain of salt.
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by tpark » 15 Aug 2017 22:01
billdeserthills wrote:I use my Dad's old Framon 2 in the shop, but I don't do much with codes I prefer impressioning keys to locks that don't easily come apart. If the thing comes apart, in my van I'd be using depth keys. I'm a step away from those old time dinosaurs-- In other news I saw a distributor trying to charge $500 for an Ilco 008 key machine today 
Impressioning locks is a skill I admire - I'm not great at this, but if I want a key for my eBay purchase, often impressioning is the only way to get a key. I've made keys with depth keys, but if you have a code machine that works way better. Once I've impressioned a lock I try to make a key cut to "official" depths. I'm convinced that "No Key" on Fleabay means that "I have the key, but the lock doesn't work, so I'll say no key so I don't have to say it doesn't work" But I digress.
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by jimu57 » 15 Aug 2017 22:03
Framon 2. Bought a couple of cutters from China by the name of Raise. They work great.
jimu57
"You haven't failed until you stop trying"
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by billdeserthills » 15 Aug 2017 23:35
tpark wrote:billdeserthills wrote:I use my Dad's old Framon 2 in the shop, but I don't do much with codes I prefer impressioning keys to locks that don't easily come apart. If the thing comes apart, in my van I'd be using depth keys. I'm a step away from those old time dinosaurs-- In other news I saw a distributor trying to charge $500 for an Ilco 008 key machine today 
Impressioning locks is a skill I admire - I'm not great at this, but if I want a key for my eBay purchase, often impressioning is the only way to get a key. I've made keys with depth keys, but if you have a code machine that works way better. Once I've impressioned a lock I try to make a key cut to "official" depths. I'm convinced that "No Key" on Fleabay means that "I have the key, but the lock doesn't work, so I'll say no key so I don't have to say it doesn't work" But I digress.
I learned to squeeze the shackle on the padlocks at flea markets and antique stores, frozen shackle not good on older padlocks
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by Wizer » 15 Aug 2017 23:43
Silca Unocode 399, Silca Triax eCode, Silca Delta 2000 AY (for Abloy Classic&Profiles), Delta 2000 FO (for Tibbe), and a Bianchi Falcon modified to cut Abloy Exec to code.
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by demux » 16 Aug 2017 9:01
After seeking some input from this forum (see thread viewtopic.php?f=42&t=64000), I also purchased a Framon 2 and really like it. As some have said, it's not the fastest machine, but it's quite accurate, and the fact that the dial graduations correspond to actual depths and spaces makes it easy to compensate for any errors or cut new/esoteric keys that you may not have a card for.
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by cledry » 16 Aug 2017 17:42
Framons are nice but too slow for serious work. HPC Blitz not as nice but faster. My next buy is going to be an ITL 9700A. Best code machine for the money IMHO.
Jim
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by Tyler J. Thomas » 17 Aug 2017 15:26
demux wrote:After seeking some input from this forum (see thread viewtopic.php?f=42&t=64000), I also purchased a Framon 2 and really like it. As some have said, it's not the fastest machine, but it's quite accurate, and the fact that the dial graduations correspond to actual depths and spaces makes it easy to compensate for any errors or cut new/esoteric keys that you may not have a card for.
Well you could always sign up with Blackhawk and have access to the 792 cards they have for the HPC that are easily printable.
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by Evan » 18 Aug 2017 9:21
I have used an HPC Blitz 1200CMB in the past when working in the maintenance world.
We used a ProLok Blue punch for SFIC work. We also had one of those tubular key machines, but rarely used it.
I have ProLok Blue punches for Schlage and Kwikset (purchased years ago from a member here)
I have not cut a key that required a special machine, Sidewinder, Dimple, etc.
~~ Evan
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by GWiens2001 » 18 Aug 2017 9:26
Have used the Pro-Lok blue punches for Schlage and SFIC, and they work well. The Rytan punch works nicely, too. Just don't own the Pro-Lok or Rytan.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by tpark » 6 Sep 2017 8:51
Evan wrote:I have used an HPC Blitz 1200CMB in the past when working in the maintenance world.
We used a ProLok Blue punch for SFIC work. We also had one of those tubular key machines, but rarely used it.
I have ProLok Blue punches for Schlage and Kwikset (purchased years ago from a member here)
I have not cut a key that required a special machine, Sidewinder, Dimple, etc.
~~ Evan
Evan - what level of accuracy did you get out of the ProLok Blue punch? How often was adjustment required? Thanks, --Ted.
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