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They have Keyway catalogs, It would be nice to be able to overlay one keyway over another to see if a key could work in another keyway. Have ability to overlay a key over another, and have it show in red anything outside of first keyway. That way, whatever is Red? Is material needed to be removed to fit keyway? Is there anything Like or Similar to this?
Last edited by Squelchtone on 8 Apr 2019 8:08, edited 1 time in total.
Reason:Changed title from Compatible Keywayd to Keyways
Insofar as keys that already belong to a specific brand of lock, they are usually already catalogued by master key hierarchy.
In master keying, you can stratify not just your bitting, but your keyways too, so that two different doors on two different floors have the same bitting but are sibling keyways that don't fit each other's lock. The parent (master) key is thinner, less warding, and fits locks from all floors.
So the LN IS like the SC 20 fitting all keyways, and Schlage doesn't have the Hierarchy, the SC 20 Works in all, but the other Schlages are unique?
No Schlage also works like this, most sectional keyways are divided up into small groups to facilitate large MK systems. These systems are then ruined by locksmiths who only stock the top level key.
So the LN IS like the SC 20 fitting all keyways, and Schlage doesn't have the Hierarchy, the SC 20 Works in all, but the other Schlages are unique?
The SC is a system master, but Schlage has lots of other keyways the SC 20 won't go into The Schlage original SC 20 or L keyway is also made of steel & is used in the A-1 Quick pull tool
I get the feeling that this started as a question more centered around making different brand locks compatible. Such as, I can use one blank in a Kwikset, Arrow, Weslock, Weiser and Dexter. So theoretically I could key a bunch of different brand locks alike. And this is possible as long as you pay attention. The spacing is not the same on all of these locks. You have to be careful that some of your pins aren't riding on the "slopes" between the cuts on your keys. I used to find Arrow deadbolts mixed with all kinds of other locks. Sometimes the customer would complain that they couldn't get a good copy of the key. So have some fun as you experiment but look down through those pin chamber holes and be sure your spacing will work.
I've debated cutting a sinewave into a KW1 so that I could key alike a person's kwiksets and weiser locks. Just insert the key and choose whatever pins align to the sheer line.
Raccoon wrote:I've debated cutting a sinewave into a KW1 so that I could key alike a person's kwiksets and weiser locks. Just insert the key and choose whatever pins align to the sheer line.
I had thought about a slope with widest at Hilt, and narrowest at the tip, pins would push key out of lock.
Raccoon wrote:I've debated cutting a sinewave into a KW1 so that I could key alike a person's kwiksets and weiser locks. Just insert the key and choose whatever pins align to the sheer line.
I had thought about a slope with widest at Hilt, and narrowest at the tip, pins would push key out of lock.
Can't edit my last post, but Don't try a square wave, Don't ask how I know.
If you want a Weiser and a Kwikset keyway lock to work on the same key and you'll be replacing the pins anyway, you can just use a Kwikset blank and then use either of Weiser or Kwikset cuts and pins in both locks as you prefer. Kwikset cuts would have the slight advantage that they would work with SmartKey locks.
Going to make a seeprate post about this machine, but this is one solution for the milling or modification of the key to make it fit another keyway. I normally just run it through my speedex. This machine is designed specifically for it though.