Forgot how to dial the combination on that old safe? Think you got the right numbers but the handle is stuck? What safe should you buy? Ask your safe questions here!
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by WMMW » 30 Jun 2020 12:56
I am looking for a recommendation on a new safe. It doesn't need to be this exact size but just something of similar size. 26" H X 20" W X 20"D. I would like for it to have some fire protection and good pry resistance. Just looking for a decent safe that will last. It won't be opened daily but will be opened frequently. Not looking at tight budget options but not the most expensive line either. Thank you for your time and suggestions.
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by GWiens2001 » 30 Jun 2020 13:56
Are those outside dimensions or inside dimensions.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by sign216 » 30 Jun 2020 14:17
I hate to take any sales away from the current manufacturers (who must be hurting now) but often there's vintage safes out there that are almost free, just for the removal.
Joe
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by GWiens2001 » 30 Jun 2020 16:51
True. What part of the planet are you located in?
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by L4R3L2 » 30 Jun 2020 21:18
I would recommend an Amsec BF2116. (BF = Burglary/ Fire) Unless dimensions have changed, they are 26.25 high, 21.75 wide, and 20.25 deep. 476 pounds.
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by billdeserthills » 30 Jun 2020 22:47
sign216 wrote:I hate to take any sales away from the current manufacturers (who must be hurting now) but often there's vintage safes out there that are almost free, just for the removal.
Joe
I just watched a new edition of Pawn Stars & Rick swiss cheeses an old safe & eventually opens it by simply bashing the dial off with a hammer If you value the contents of your safe, you won't buy an old safe because they rarely if ever contain hardplate, let alone a relocker I have two AMSEC BF series safes they are just below a TL-15 in rating
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by L4R3L2 » 1 Jul 2020 1:00
I always think it goes without saying, but I should probably add that I recommend a mechanical lock over an electronic lock. Amsec makes maybe the best electronic locks, but unless your eyesight is failing, you need to have multiple combinations for multiple people, or have to change the combination frequently, the mechanical lock is more durable, if properly maintained (and, no batteries needed). jmo
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by billdeserthills » 1 Jul 2020 2:14
L4R3L2 wrote:I always think it goes without saying, but I should probably add that I recommend a mechanical lock over an electronic lock. Amsec makes maybe the best electronic locks, but unless your eyesight is failing, you need to have multiple combinations for multiple people, or have to change the combination frequently, the mechanical lock is more durable, if properly maintained (and, no batteries needed). jmo
Now you can have both https://www.safeandvaultstore.com/produ ... 78EALw_wcB
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by billdeserthills » 1 Jul 2020 11:48
MartinHewitt wrote:Bill, is Rick's safe opening on yt?
Got me
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by nothumbs » 4 Jul 2020 12:41
I own a Hollon FB-685 and am reasonably pleased with it. Good amount of interior space, two movable shelves. Didn't care for the included hold down bolt and used a ITW Red-Head tru-bolt anchor instead. I do wish that there was a recessed space in the floor of the safe for the hold down bolt head (it protrudes above the floor of the safe). After comparing features and interior space, I built a quick spreadsheet that calculated cost per cubic inch of interior space and the FB-685 had an almost half the cost per cubic inch compared to the other safes I looked at.
It's a good day when I learn something new.
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by MartinHewitt » 4 Jul 2020 14:29
This a video showing also the inside of the door: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8E0VRBeNdpkI have to say it looks better built than the typical US safe. The bolt work does actually look sturdy. The inside of the door is painted so it won't rust and the fire insulation tape is in the door frame where it should be. These are not unimportant details. On the other hand the welding looks very sparse in this video. If I see it correctly there are four tiny dots on the hinge side. My problems with this safe are that none of the anti-burglar and anti-fire performance is externally tested and that my gut feeling when look through their web site is, that a marketing expert went wild giving wrong impressions without lying. Like the "TL-30 safe that thinks it's a TL-60". Ok, there is no TL-60 rating, so they could not get a TL-60 certificate, but they could have gotten a higher rating to proove the quality. On the positive side they do have experience with TL-30, which makes it more likely that they can make also good non-certified safes. The non-standard fire tests are practically always making the product look better than the standard ones. PS: Don't forget to activate the glass relocker.
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by nothumbs » 4 Jul 2020 15:06
And save the relocker pin in case you ever plan to move the safe. Mine is taped to the inside of the door.
I"ll also note that on mine the hinge welding runs the full length of the hinge housing.
It's a good day when I learn something new.
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by MartinHewitt » 4 Jul 2020 16:01
nothumbs wrote:I"ll also note that on mine the hinge welding runs the full length of the hinge housing.
Great!
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by billdeserthills » 4 Jul 2020 18:17
MartinHewitt wrote:Bill, is Rick's safe opening on yt?
I have looked but I don't see it on the internet yet--he pretended to know what he was doing but by the 2nd, 3rd & 4th hole he drills in the poor thing it's obvious he doesn't have a clue. He finally get's mad and knocks off the dial and gains entry. It was an old double door record safe looking thing but still coulda been worth $$$ to restore someone had previously installed a new style S&G dial, so I figured there was likely a hole already drilled in the safe, under the dial
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