TOSL Project. A community project to "build a better mousetrap".
by Oskry » 3 May 2018 11:07
I'm very new to lockpicking as a hobby so I may not know much about how to make a lock unpickable; however, I've always been competent in software design and once I am able to go to college through the army (when my GI bill gets enacted) I am going to go for engineering. With that said, I may be new but I love the idea of this project and would like to help any way possible. As far as making it an electronic lock there may be a few problems. Electronics obviously need electricity, for that there are a few possible solutions depending on the format of the lock (that I can think of,) if it's a door lock on a house it could be wired into the house mains using electrical contacts in the door frame or photovoltaic cells (solar panels) since the lock shouldn't be using to much energy. On the other hand, something like a padlock has the problem of what do we do when the power runs out which it inevitably will at some point. For the answer here, take a look at the master lock and noke bluetooth padlocks where (although they are shitty) they have a place to jump start the battery while the user unlocks their precious cargo. Why not have an over-voltage protector on the other end of a usb port (which unless I am mistaken already has voltage regulation built in) and use a power key with an 18650 battery in it so that the power key can also be recharged. This has been a mouthful but I've added my two cents for now. I hope this was a bit useful. Thank you and have a good day.
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Oskry
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by demux » 3 May 2018 12:28
For anything hardwired, you'd of course want to make sure you include a battery backup for the system, you wouldn't want to get locked out if the power dropped. Regarding the use of USB or similar ports, in a security setting you'd want to stay away from any type of interface that anything could be jammed into, it presents a good point of entry to start from to try and mount a physical attack, and also creates an opportunity for a denial-of-service attack by just jamming it so full of junk that the real key can't plug in. (This is also an issue with conventional mechanical locks, but those tend to be a bit more robust and can often be cleaned out.) I think what you might be envisioning is something like the CyberLock.
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by Oskry » 3 May 2018 12:45
Fair point on all accounts but I think you miss understood me. The USB isn't for the key it's to power the lock in case the power runs out or the battery dies.
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by demux » 3 May 2018 15:43
Oskry wrote:Fair point on all accounts but I think you miss understood me. The USB isn't for the key it's to power the lock in case the power runs out or the battery dies.
Ah, that would probably be a bit less dangerous, but I'd probably still stay away from it. USB connectors, particularly the micro or mini variety which I'd assume you'd be talking about for this scenario, are still not the most robust in the world. If all you're worried about is backup power, you'd probably be better off with just a simple low voltage barrel connector, like the common 5.5mm x 2.1mm type. But take a look at the CyberLock if you haven't already, in that system the key provides power to the lock and is itself rechargeable. That setup creates a single seal interface between the key and lock for both data and power, with no required penetrations on the lock itself.
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by billdeserthills » 3 May 2018 16:01
I think instead of a usb port to power up the lock, a couple of terminals to fit a 9vt battery against would be better
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by Squelchtone » 3 May 2018 16:11
billdeserthills wrote:I think instead of a usb port to power up the lock, a couple of terminals to fit a 9vt battery against would be better
+1000 This falls under the KISS category. usb is a fragile connector. 2 terminals or pads to hold a battery up to is much simpler. good call bill Squelchtone
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by damonwill » 25 Jan 2022 10:21
What if you used "Energy Harnesting from the houses WIFI? You should be able to get a couple mA which would be enough to keep it powered.
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by demux » 25 Jan 2022 11:21
damonwill wrote:What if you used "Energy Harnesting from the houses WIFI? You should be able to get a couple mA which would be enough to keep it powered.
From a purely power perspective, interesting thought. Of course, the AP at the other end of that signal also requires power from somewhere, so if the goal is to have the lock work even if mains power drops, that probably doesn't fully address OP's concerns. Good idea for someplace where it's exceptionally difficult to run wires to though. Also, the idea of a lock connected to a wifi network opens up several other cans of works, most of which have been thoroughly discussed on this forum. In particular, they tend to be not very secure and usually end up connecting back to some cloud service somewhere, which means you don't really control your own lock.
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by stratmando » 25 Jan 2022 12:56
You could use 1 Small Insulated Screw to apply Positive, or Negative Voltage should Power Fail. You could Grind screwdriver slot so it is more flush. Paint black or whatever color to blend in. You could also drill a small hole, Fill with Silicone or something, then you could push a small wire through hole when needed to apply power? Good Luck
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by stratmando » 27 Jan 2022 21:06
The Safe Body would be the Ground or Positive, whatever you choose, adding a diode to where a negative would need to be applied, I feel many would assume Safe Body to be ground, apply Positive through hole or insulated screw, Diode would Block that.
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by cledry » 28 Jan 2022 6:10
The best way is to have the lock generate its own electricity. Kaba has had that option on both commercial door locks and on safe locks for many years.
Jim
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