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pin stuck while changing configuration

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

pin stuck while changing configuration

Postby quasar » 26 Jan 2005 6:24

:roll: I really stuffed it. I was changing the pins in a practice lock.
I left to pins in the lock and replaced the cylinder. I was screwing the back of the cylinder back on. But then the cylinder slipped and the core came out one chamber. Now it is stuck with the key in :oops: :oops:

what can I do? :?: :?: :?:
quasar
 
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Postby WhiteHat » 26 Jan 2005 6:30

I'd like to help - but I can't seem to understand what's going on....

could you walk us through what you did step by step, making a distinction between top and bottom pins?
Oh look! it's 2016!
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Postby quasar » 26 Jan 2005 6:37

so I have this lock from Varjeal's package.following his instructions, and took the core out :P I remove the last three pins from the top and bottom and the springs.

so there are two top and bottom pins in the first two chambers. I replace the core at an angle like the instructions, and then turn it back up right. Then I put the cam and the screws on the back. Just by hand,

8) at this point everything is as it is supposed to be :arrow: then I lift the whole thing up to screw the screws in with a screwdriver :oops:
the whole core starts to slide out, and before I knew it there was a click and everything was stuck. :cry:
quasar
 
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Postby quasar » 26 Jan 2005 6:38

so now the core and the key is slightly out, I can see the first bottom pin and that is all I know for now
quasar
 
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Joined: 30 Sep 2004 6:27

Postby WhiteHat » 26 Jan 2005 6:47

ouch - I did something similar, but the key wasn't in.

for the future, if you take the key out before you put the plug back in, then you can rotate the plug back to locked position and it will stay there while you screw on the cam on the end.

as for fixing that I've really got no Idea - except - if the third cut is deap then you may be able to force the rotation of the plug (don't twist the key, twist the cam at the back in a vice) this will break spring number 3, but that's what the spares are for....

after that I don't know..... perhaps a long thin wire to push driver in spot 2 up?
Oh look! it's 2016!
WhiteHat
 
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Postby quasar » 26 Jan 2005 6:58

the 1st 3 pins in the key is 6 4 3
is this a go or no?
quasar
 
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Postby WhiteHat » 26 Jan 2005 7:06

possibly not - what needs to happen is the driver drop down entirely below the sheer line (which will happen when the key's not there and you can break the spring) or be pushed entirely above the sheer line in which case it will open normaly.

so your best bet now is to try and lift the driver in position two above the sheerline with a piece of wire or something.

the other option is attempting to remove the coverplate on top of the lock - I've never done this myself but perhaps other people may be able to offer advice..
Oh look! it's 2016!
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Postby quasar » 26 Jan 2005 7:33

are top pins all same size?
quasar
 
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taking off the cap

Postby raimundo » 26 Jan 2005 11:44

is there a thin metal cap on top of the cylinder where the pin holes are drilled in? If so, this can be none destructively removed by placing a piece of hacksaw blade on it with the teeth cutting toward the rear of the cylinder, then tapping on the top of the hack saw blade corner near the front of the cylinder, so that the teeth will set into the metal and the tapping on the corner of the blade will drive this plate to the rear of the cylinder. do it carefully so as not to destroy the metal plate, and you will be able to remove the pins and springs through the top of the holes, then replace the metal cap by tapping it lightly until it goes back into its slot, in the same way it came out, but you won't need the hacksaw blade to get a grip on it this time, do not try to assemble the lock with pins and springs in it by this method. just assemble the cylinder, and repin and spring it with the follower in the normal way.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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Postby MrB » 26 Jan 2005 12:12

Don't Varjeal's locks have the little set screws in the spring retaining plate that allow you to remove pins and springs through the top of the lock without using a plug follower?
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Postby quasar » 26 Jan 2005 17:24

The top has a bit of metal, no screws tho. It looks quite thick, almost 1mm. I'll try to look for a blade...
:arrow:
quasar
 
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Re: taking off the cap

Postby WhiteHat » 26 Jan 2005 19:14

[quote="raimundo"]is there a thin metal cap on top of the cylinder where the pin holes are drilled in? If so, this can be none destructively removed by placing a piece of hacksaw blade on it with the teeth cutting toward the rear of the cylinder, then tapping on the top of the hack saw blade corner near the front of the cylinder, so that the teeth will set into the metal and the tapping on the corner of the .....quote]

dang - I never would have thought of using a hacksaw blade - I nearly ripped my hand open trying to get that thing off - *goes off to find hacksaw blade*
Oh look! it's 2016!
WhiteHat
 
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Postby MrB » 26 Jan 2005 19:52

Actually, I never thought about trying to slide it. I would have tried to fold back the metal where it was crimped over on each side.
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Postby quasar » 27 Jan 2005 2:19

it's done. aah. the stress.........
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