Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by glasskey » 14 Apr 2005 8:58
Any ideas on how to take this lock apart ? click here for photo
Glasskey
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just like a key
were all different, were all the same
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glasskey
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by toomush2drink » 14 Apr 2005 10:03
Is there a screw in the hole where the shackle goes ? If so you may be able to get at it by undoing the allen key grub screw to release the shackle.
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by master in training » 14 Apr 2005 11:30
you're probably out of luck if this doesnt have the screw mentioned above, padlocks are not often made to be taken apart. sorry!
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by quicklocks » 14 Apr 2005 14:23
i can tell you how to get the shackle off for a start get a feeler gauge (its normal use is for setting the gap on spark plugs) slide this in the bottom of the shackle on the none locking endand open the lock with your key the shackle will pull right out.
this may expose a way to get the barrel out it may not but no harm in trying
oh you are holding a sprung pin in with the feeler.
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by glasskey » 14 Apr 2005 15:37
there are no screws or allen heads that can be seen with the lock opened. the shakle is held in with a spring driven pin, but the plug or disk assembly looks to be possibly pressed in. each disk turns individually probably to line up with a lever inside. as on [url=http://www.abloy.com.au/verve/_resources/DL_PRO_professional_Brochure{78244}.pdf](KLIK HEAR) this site[/url] so my next question is how do I go about picking this lock, do I turn each disk and listen for a click? or by feel?
Glasskey
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just like a key
were all different, were all the same
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glasskey
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by Mad Mick » 14 Apr 2005 17:14
There's the possibility that a grub screw could be accessible through the hole in the middle-right pic. Use quicklocks' method to remove the shackle, then look down the drilling to see if anything is in the bottom.
Looking at the left pic, it appears that the plug locking ring is screwed in. Notice the increasing gap around the ring, going from approx 9 o'clock to past 1 o'clock? This, to me, is indicative of a screw thread. If the ring is screwed in it has to be secured internally, otherwise, what is going to stop someone from just unscrewing the ring and removing the Abloy-knockoff disks?
HTH,
Mick.
 If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
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Mad Mick
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by skold » 20 Apr 2005 6:47
In abloy padlocks there is a hole on one side where the shackles is visible.
when the shackle is raised the screw becomes accessable, then you can unscrew the retaining plug and destroy it as you wish..
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by capt.dunc » 21 Apr 2005 6:50
i have a lock very similar to this that i use for work, and i've been looking at the construction for a while. i believe that on mine the locking mechinism is loaded from the base (the key hole end) as well as the retainers for the shakle, which obviously fits from the top. then the final silver ring is pushed into the key hole to be held by sprung latches. there is no feeling of any kind when turning the disks on mine and you can't turn them all the way to their opening possition. i think they turn so far and then a slot in the side of the disk picks up a bar ,along the length of the lock, before turning on. my one of these is made by "rolson" and i can't find any info on it, but i think it's a copy of an abus "granit" it may be pickable with a tibbe pick or something similar but it's proving a nightmare with various homemade picks.
a tidy locksmith, picks, up his rubish
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capt.dunc
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by Mad Mick » 21 Apr 2005 18:31
If this lock is using disks like an Abloy, the retaining ring has to be adjustable to take up most of the play between the disks, but not allow the disks to bind against the separators. A hex grub screw (set screw, allen screw, whatever you call it) is used to secure the Abloy plug retainer, which is screwed in, and the the more I look at glasskey's lock, the more I'm convinced the retainer is screwed in also.
The obvious place to secure the retainer would be through the hole which the ball/pin & spring for the shackle are housed. This hole is there for some reason, if only to assemble the ball/pin & spring before inserting the shackle. For the time taken to remove the shackle completely, (using quicklocks' method) a very nice surprise would be to find a grub screw at the bottom of the drilling...very likely IMHO.
Dunc:
Can you post a few links or pics of your lock, from all angles please?
It would be good to have something to look at & enlarge.
 If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
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Mad Mick
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by capt.dunc » 22 Apr 2005 11:28
sorry i don't have a camera, a friend took some photos a couple of years back i'll see if he's got them. the shackle on mine is completely unsprung and locks with a ball bearing and cam system. the ring around the keyhole looks the same as glasskeys, it's free spinning, which is what makes me think it pushes in durring assembley it's a neat fit as well, i can get a 0.05mm shim in between it and the body of the lock but there's no clues in there as to how it goes together. the lock is also key retaining.
a tidy locksmith, picks, up his rubish
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capt.dunc
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by Arch4ngel » 8 Jun 2005 0:36
Where did you get that lock anyway ? Don't seems like anything I've ever seen before... at least not in Canada or in place I've visited before.
Is it a standard pin and thumbler lock ? did you happen to pick it open ?
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by digital_blue » 8 Jun 2005 23:18
Here I go way out on a limb again, but I'm guessing the lock is made in China. 
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by capt.dunc » 9 Jun 2005 6:54
mine looks better quality than his and doesn't have china in large letters down the side, mine's made for rolson, who are tool manafacturers mostly. i just can't see how to take it apart.
a tidy locksmith, picks, up his rubish
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