Mul-T-Lock ID please!

[fgarci03]

But if all the keys are the same what does it matter which one belongs to who?
Anyway they look fancy, and if I get it right that's the aim.

You're probably right

The lock has 6 chambers due to it's length, I'd guess 30/30.

Close! It's a 31/31.

Thank you for the specific model.


Now just have to gut it
I'll post the breakdown soon.

Thank you!

[fgarci03]

After a strugle I disassembled it.

Bad luck, the pins jumped on my face
So in my search for them I also found a long pin that I don't think that belongs to this lock.

So it has 6 pins with 6 spools. One of the pins and one of the spools is silver gray, while the others are golden.
Anyone knows why?



Also, that silverish spool and a golden one are smaller than the others. Does it matter in reassembling?

Here are the key pins. The silver one is cool. I've seen these before on my readings but never had the chance to pick one before. So this is the one that kept bugging me! I kept resetting the tension as I constantly overset this one. What are these called?

The different colloring on the key and top pin is just because of this pin?

Here's a pic of the hole thing (It only shows two springs because the other 4 are inside the pin chambers and I didn't take them out:

(There is a 7th pin over the 6 spools, this is the one I think that doesn't belong here as there is no place to put it

I thought this kind of pin configuration would be a lot harder to pick.. First time with something this "secure" and it was relatively easy. Yes it gave me a bit of trouble (and still does), but I though it would be a nightmare and it's not.

What would be my next step? Serrated pins (Gordon, you're up! )? Any other ideas?

[fgarci03]

One other thing:

The two dots on the left side are the anti drill pins I think. And what is that "hole" in the middle?

I suppose it's the weak spot for a destructive entry so that it still gives some protection but I could be wrong!

[fgarci03]

And here's the anti drill plate!


Sorry for the many posts, but when I think I saw everything, I notice something new

[ARF-GEF]

Could the long pin be an anti drill insert? Some lock manufacturers use a long straight rod of steel at the front of the lock.
The silver handle shaped pin is probably made of steel for added drill resistance.
The funny key pin you are asking about is (I think) called a mushroom pin or I've read the "torpedo shaped pin" expression somewhere too.

I have a theory about the hole in he middle, but it's just a that, a theory. Some mulTlocks have construction key system, which means there is a key to open it (key A) then an other one (key B) which can override the first key, making key A useless and the lock only operable by key B. The way it works is that there are little ball shaped pin like things which can fall into a hole after you turn the bible to the other ("wrong") direction with key B. This could be a hole like that. Maybe MulTlock produces only this kind of bible to make the lock more economical, but I have a feeling this could cause functional trouble with some pin configurations in normal locks. (?)
Once again, fgarci, this is only a guess:)

To avoid pins jumping on your face, you should try to shim the lock first (after you've picked it). I probably scould have said that before, but it slipped my mind

I could recommend trying a multilock interactive, that should be a challenge!:) It has pin-in-pin configuration, a pretty serious lock,so maybe it's a too big jump. Honestly I can't pick an interactive so I can only say it's hard. (at my level at least:) )

[mhole]

The reason you found the lock fairly easy is the number of spools - ironically Garrison and Integrator get significantly easier to pick with 3 or more spools. They can be absolute nightmares with no spools at all. The torpedo pins are nasty, and I've found it virtually impossible to undo an overset with these pins without resetting everything. They use a similar shape on some pin-in-pin cylinders and they're beastly!

The coloured keys are not to do with master/construction or anything. Mul-T-Lock supply a handful of coloured push in inserts for their keys, so customers can ID their keys easily - to an untrained eye all dimple keys look the same, since you can't see the cuts on the edge of the key. Colour coding makes it easy to differentiate if you have two different keys on one bunch.

[ARF-GEF]

@ mhole

Why does it get easier with the more spooled pins it has? It might be a dumb question but it seems counter-intuitive to me.

[fgarci03]

To avoid pins jumping on your face, you should try to shim the lock first (after you've picked it).

I used a modified clip to hold the pins in place. But I didn't make it properly because it didn't hold

Why does it get easier with the more spooled pins it has?

I've heard this before. But I thought it was more of a hoax than the truth!
Maybe with more spools it's easier to fix an oversetted pin. Don't know, it's the only thing I can think of right now!

@ mhole
Enlighten us. PLEEAAAAASE!

[GWiens2001]

In my experience, if there are all spools, the lock goes into a false set easier, and with the extra grip from the inside of the spool the rest of the pins do not drop as readily when a spool is lifted. It becomes more difficult to do this if there is at least one normal or serrated driver pin. So I agree with the above post.

Gordon

[ARF-GEF]

Ah, I see!

[mhole]

Yep - with all spools a false set is easily achieved, and Garrison and Integrator spools give massive counter rotation when touched, making it pretty easy to finish a cylinder which is in false set. Getting any kind of feedback from a cylinder with no spools is much harder.

[fgarci03]

I could recommend trying a multilock interactive, that should be a challenge!:) It has pin-in-pin configuration, a pretty serious lock,so maybe it's a too big jump.

I'm looking for a lock with telescopic pins to give it a shot.
I'd like to know wich ones you recomend, since it will be the first time I try to pick those, I would like the simplest one. Just telescopic pins, no serrated, or any other "security measures". Is the MTL Interactive like that?

Which other are?

[mhole]

Get hold of an old Mul-T-Lock classic. The newer locks have more pick resistant features like the torpedo pins and serrated drivers, where as the older classic cylinders tend to use plain drivers.

[Rickthepick]

unusual to see a 6 pinner, all the 31-31's i have are still 7 pin.

[ARF-GEF]

So I've talked to a guy at Multilock and he said usually all the cylinders under 35x35 get 6 pin chambers above 35 they get 7.