But we do not only have US people here ...
EN 1143-1 is good if you insure your stuff. If someone wants to put inside 50000€, grade 1 is enough. Because the replaces the value buying the cheapest grade 1 is doing the job. Security is not relevant. Everything else is difficult. What safe to buy, when the response to an alarm system is there in 30 minutes? What safe to buy, when I have important family jewels to protect? A grade 1 (or 0/N) has walls stiffened with some steel bars and the gap is filled with mineral wool, cat litter or expanded clay balls. It is maybe a bit better than an RSC. Grade 2 is not much better. Many are also filled with loose stuff and have only minor upgrades compared to grade 1. Starting with grade 3 all of them have solidly filled walls. Usually it is steel fibre reenforced concrete (SFRC). They have more hard plates and glass with a relocker. Security level is probably similar to TL-15 or a bit more. In most cases the bolt work is quite simple, the complexity similar to US bolt works. Some grade 3 safes have more complex bolt works which make an attack also more difficult, but usually these start at grade 4, because these need to have two locks. I think that level is comparable to TL-30. But even so there are nice grades there are always more and less secure safes within each grade.
This is probably a grade 1 safe (180kg, angle grinder and probably prybar):
https://cache.pressmailing.net/thumbnai ... 57.JPG.jpgAll safes of grade 1 to 3 have in their basic version only one lock. Some offer an optional second lock. If you insure the safe you can't replace it with a different lock model, because the lock is part of the safe's certification. This makes somehow sense, because if there is behind the lock a bracket this depends on the thickness of the lock. Or the glass plate with a hole for a key lock would need to be swapped to get the proper hole for a mechanical combination lock.
I don't think a key-only safe is a good idea, because the key needs to be stored somewhere over night, when on holiday or in the pool, and a burglar with completely search the location to find it. My preference for home usage is a mechanical combination lock, for business and convenience an electronic lock. Dual custody is usually done by using the advanced features of an electronic lock. For additional security two of these locks or an additional key lock. There are also possibilities to install locks that offer key locks as backup, e.g. the dormakaba Code Combi B30 or the Wittkopp Primor. These can be stored off-site. You didn't really write where you are based. So I can only give recommendations for the market in my country. My preference for a mechanical combination lock is the S&G 6630, but it is extremely difficult to find with a safe. The standard lock here is the LG 3390, but that should really be avoided. The higher grade LG 1985 is of better quality. Electronic locks to avoid are the Polish GST/Solar locks and the Burg-Waechter Secutronic. The Code Combi B30, Wittkopp, M-Locks and La Gard locks are ok. Difficult to predict when they fail, but often it is just the keypad. I have been given the recommendation to replace locks every 10 years to be on the safe side.
I have never heard about a burglar in the last 50 years, which did pick a safe lock. Tools are lock specific and incriminating. Mauer has many locks. If you mean the President 71111, then it is quite good in its class. Very durable. But the cheap keys are cast Zamak and can break. If one key is damaged or lost, then get a replacement lock with a full set of keys very soon. My picking time is 15 to 30 minutes. The standard requires 5 minutes. A nice key lock is the S&G FAS (6880, 6860, 6990), because the key is small. If you get a detachable key bit you can attach it to the key ring.
If you need a safe with more space on the inside it needs more space on the outside and is more difficult to hide. Also more secure safes will be bigger and more difficult to hide. A safe will draw the attention away from the other stuff in your home (maybe unless it is key-only). So there might be a benefit in not hiding it. But in home burglaries most safes are stolen. I have read about safes up to 500kg which were successfully stolen. I think often the safes are not properly bolted down and private homes have often quite soft walls. I tried to bolt down a safe in a house from the 1960s. No standard way was so strong, that I could not break out the safe with a large screw driver. So I do really recommend getting a heavy safe.
