Master Confusion

[sisk]

My lock collection includes 4 Master locks: A #3, a #1, a #7, and a #140. The #7 is hanging on my storage unit because it's all I had with me when I discovered the pins in the old lock I had on it were seized up at the shear line. I haven't had a chance to replace it yet and thus haven't had a chance to pick it yet.

Here's where the confusion comes in. Of the other three Masters the #3 is by far the hardest to pick. I can rake the #1 in 2 seconds or less or SPP it in about 10. I can SPP the 140 in about 30 seconds. But the #3, which SHOULD be ridiculously easy from everything I've read, takes me about a minute and a half to SPP and I can't rake it at all, and that's with me knowing its binding order. Even the 140 with a couple spools is easier to pick than this thing with 4 standard pins. So here's my confusion: Why is this lock, which should be the lock picking equivalent of training wheels, so much more difficult than similar locks? Any ideas?

This is pure curiosity. I'm going to keep working on it till I can get my time on it down to where I finally feel it's become too easy. I'm just trying to figure out what makes it different. Also, for the record, I had a key for it, but I've lost it.

[Jacob Morgan]

Some locks can have difficult bitting, I have a low-security Master Lock that is hard to open. It has two adjacent pins with a 0 deprh and a deep depth just beyond. It makes it harder than it should be.

There is also a slight possibility that the cylinder and plug holes, by pure random chance, align with each other extremely well. In theory, if they aligned perfectly a lock would be incredibly hard to pick. There is more to it than just "tolerances", it has to do with the relative true positions between the top and bottom pin chambers.

[Dsmith1988]

I've picked hundreds of padlocks. Mostly masters, allot of ace brand, some brinks, abus, handful of American lock, and a bunch of no name brands. I have two master #3 that give me hard time, well one I can't even get unless I shim it. Neither of them are by any means new, might be gunked up inside or whatever. However I bought a brass body 5 pin ace padlock with a bunch of high low bitting. I can't pick that bugger to this day. I can't find a binder. Some locks are just stubborn, that's when I shim or bypass or worst case cut or drill.

[Daltonj21]

My master #5 was tough at first because I needed way more tension then I thought I should. Also the core kind of flops around in there... there's that and the tension wrenches like to snag on the bottom of the lock. I think #3 & #5 are the same except for the size.

[smokingman]

My master #5 was tough at first because I needed way more tension then I thought I should. Also the core kind of flops around in there... there's that and the tension wrenches like to snag on the bottom of the lock. I think #3 & #5 are the same except for the size.

If you take at least one tension tool and round off the edges (corners) of the blade a little it will not snag
against the shell so bad, and make padlock picking much easier on those loose fitting cores.
Or you could use TOK instead.

[gademsky]

I have acquired a number of master locks of all ages and different sizes. Some of them have a vinyl or rubber case around them. I am looking at one now. I haven't picked it yet but it appears to have a removable core under the rubber jacket. Is there a way to remove the jacket without ruining it ? Take the lock out of the case it is in?