Bump keys and lock bumping finally have their own area. Discuss making bump keys, proper bumping techniques, and countermeasures here.
by treboR » 20 Sep 2005 19:03
zeke79 wrote:Seems like quite a bit more striking force is used compared to when I bump a lock. It also appears that you have cut away more of the shoulder of your bumpkey. I also use a slightly different technique of applying a small amount of tension to the blank all the way through the bumping process. If the lock does not open with the first strike, I release tension letting the pins fall and repeat the process. I will try your techniques and report back in this thread, please try mine and report your findings here. Also please let us know the brand of lock you were bumping. It appeared to be a kwikset, but the video was dark and I could not be sure. Thanks for the video  ! These are welcome additions to the site. I would like to add this to my website if you do not mind to be archived for other lp101 users in the future. Please let me know if this is ok with you.
Add away.
It is a kwickset (maximum security edition.  )
The shoulder is cut away about 1mm. When viewing the video I noticed that I pulled the bump key out a little bit more than it would have sprung out on its own.
I will try it your way tonight, and let you know.
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treboR
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by zeke79 » 20 Sep 2005 19:43
The extra striking force required is probably due to the lock being a kwikset. The loose tolerances will require extra force to successfully bump the lock. That does solve that question and you answered the other one about withdrawing the key further than normal. Great job with the video RobertB. I will be adding this to my site shortly  .
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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by treboR » 20 Sep 2005 20:03
zeke79 wrote:The extra striking force required is probably due to the lock being a kwikset. The loose tolerances will require extra force to successfully bump the lock.
But................ It's a Maximum Security Edition. 
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by ThE_MasteR » 20 Sep 2005 20:15
I have a question, and I don't care if it's stupid or not lol.
What is the reason for cutting a milimeter off the end of the key, and 1/2 a milimeter on the shoulder of the key ? What does this serve ?
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by wtf|pickproof? » 20 Sep 2005 20:27
ThE_MasteR wrote:I have a question, and I don't care if it's stupid or not lol.
What is the reason for cutting a milimeter off the end of the key, and 1/2 a milimeter on the shoulder of the key ? What does this serve ?
The cuts allow the key to go a little deeper inside the lock than it would normally. This is needed as the cuts are in the same position as they would be on a regular key. The tips of the bumpkey need to hit the pins, so key has to enter the lock further than it would normaly. This is why the sholder and the tip has to be filed of.
Well, I hope I made myself clear, it's 3:30 in the morning and I'm drunk ...
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by ThE_MasteR » 20 Sep 2005 20:28
Thanks for that, it explains it very well.
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by treboR » 20 Sep 2005 22:47
zeke79 wrote:I also use a slightly different technique of applying a small amount of tension to the blank all the way through the bumping process. If the lock does not open with the first strike, I release tension letting the pins fall and repeat the process. I will try your techniques and report back in this thread, please try mine and report your findings here.
I tried your method, and it does not work as well for me. I was able to open the lock, but it took longer.
Most likely because of the superior craftsmanship of Kwikset. 
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by zeke79 » 20 Sep 2005 23:24
 I am sure you are right. If you have a schlage lock and a schlage bumpkey please try it there. Of course everyone has their own technique and I am open to them. I on the other hand had trouble getting the timing of your technique down on my schlage keyway almont padlock that I normally bump open easily with my method. Go figure  .
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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by treboR » 21 Sep 2005 13:03
zeke79 wrote:If you have a schlage lock and a schlage bumpkey please try it there.
I have a schlage deadbolt with spools. I will make a bumkey for it and see what happens. 
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by ThE_MasteR » 21 Sep 2005 15:53
RobertB wrote:zeke79 wrote:If you have a schlage lock and a schlage bumpkey please try it there.
I have a schlage deadbolt with spools. I will make a bumkey for it and see what happens. 
Looking foward to your reply on this, I really wanna see how bumping reacts with spools.
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by Gordon Airporte » 21 Sep 2005 16:34
I'm wondering about spools and serrated pins. I've had no luck bumping my Brinks shrouded padlock or my American 2000 (same A1045 key). It'll be some combination of the padlock springs, the security pins, and the way I filed the key. The Toool video makes it look like deadbolts with security pins aren't much of a problem, so... I dunno.
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by Chucklz » 21 Sep 2005 16:41
My Abus with Schlage P keyway bumps quite happily, even with an L keyway bump key, cut to 9s, no mods. The keying ranges in depth from 1 to 9, so there is a great deal of variation, and of course some spool top pins.
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by vector40 » 21 Sep 2005 16:58
Chucklz, do you use a constant tension, or a twist-right-after-you-hit method?
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by Chucklz » 21 Sep 2005 19:29
I keep the key under the slightest tension possible, basically enough so that I can still turn in time. I hit then turn, pull out one stop... repeat until it opens. I sometimes get hung up on a spool pin, but no more often than normal pins.
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