Help with key machine manual

[Keyring]

I just bought a 'Mancuna Cadet' on (or rather off) Ebay. It's my first machine and of course has no manual. I suspect it's was originally v low cost and probably has been obsolete for a long time.

I want to try to adjust it. What I am hoping for is either (most unlikely) a copy of a manual for this machine. Or a manual for just about any key cutting machine, so I can see the principles behind adjusting the cutting accuracy. Possbly recent machines have .pdf manuals which would be easier for someone, but if we were talking about a photocopy I could reimburse the expense.

[Shrub]

What do you want to set?

Put a blank in both side and run the feeler over it, adjust the cutter so its just touching when its running and youll be ok.

[Keyring]

Fair enough. Though I think it's the feeler that is adjustable for backwards/forwards. Then it looks like the side to side would mean slackening the cutter on the motor shaft. I suppose I could then push the cutter and feeler sideways against the shoulder on the key. Is that what people do?

[Shrub]

The feeler (the stylus or what ever its called) is only set to the depth, the side to side is determined on where you put the keys isnt it?

There are various methods on how you set the key to the stylus but on my machines (not the smae as your granted) there is a stop for the tip of the key or you have a part that swings up and sets the shoulders of the keys the same.

You shouldnt need to move the cutter at all,

Post a pic of your machine showing the area in question and ill have a better look.

[Keyring]

It looks like the two keys are positioned sideways by their shoulders pressing against the clamp jaw sides. The feeler doesn't have any significant posiblity to move sideways. But the cutter is clamped onto the motor shaft (direct drive) and could be moved along the shaft if required.

I am not convinced that either setting is quite right at the moment. But I don't want to slacken off any screws till I'm confident in what I'm doing. I'll try and post a picture or two tomorrow.

At least the cutter looks in good nick. I'm not confident that they are still available!

[Shrub]

You shuld be able to get a cutter for it.

In that case yes you put a blank in and as well as doing what ive already suggested you then do the same on the side of the key to set the holders up.

[grit1]

My HPC Premiere Speedex has a shoulder-gauge that's "adjustable" via this little tool that was included to actually bend the key guage until it's just right.

My Bellsaw machine has hex adjustments for side-to-side tweaking, on the stylus side. If I need to tweak depth I just adjust the built-in micrometer that's rather exlusive to the design of the machine.

My Bellsaw machine [which I don't use that much] needs to be calibrated all the time, as opposed to my HPC that I've only calibrated once and it's been smack-on ever sense [even with riding in the back of my car / in a backpack etc]...

Good luck in calibrating - it's kind of a pain but once you get it, you'll be glad you did! ~Grit.

[Chrispy]

The main key-cutting machine at work was out of wack today. 23 key refunds.

Guess where the Workshop Manager (who's responsibility it is to calibrate the machine) was today? Playing golf.

Mind you, so was the Managing Director, Operations Manager, one of the Architectural Consultants, and one of the Keying Department guys.

[toomush2drink]

As shrub says insert a blank key but in both sides, now try to copy the blank. If it takes a little off in one place you now know where it needs adjusting. Its actually not that hard just take the plunge with a few blanks, they are cheap enough anyway, and you will soon suss it out.