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Picking a deadbolt

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

Picking a deadbolt

Postby Kayvon » 5 Feb 2004 14:20

After an (admittably lucky) experience with lockpicking, I finally bought myself a lockpicking set of my own and starting practicing. I bought a normal deadbolt lock from Wal-mart (I don't have the brand name with me, but I can post it if needed) and went to work. After a few days with no success, I bought a cutaway tumbler lock, boosted my confidence, and proceeded to pick the deadbolt several times in a row. A couple days later, however, I couldn't get it anymore. So, naturally, I found out how to take it apart.

The pins in a lock have two parts (or two separate pins, depending how you look at it): the bottom part that should stay below the shear line and make contact with the key, and the top part that goes above the shear line and is always in contact with the springs. These pins are generally tiny cylinders, but on this particular lock, two of the "uppers pins" were actually shaped like the letter I. That is, the diameter of the top and bottom of the pins is equal to that of the other pins, but the middle of these pins is much thinner.

So the question is (er... questions are): are most locks like this? That is, do they frequently have these special pins at either end of the lock to help prevent picking? And what is the best way to pick such locks? It's hard to tell which part of the pin has his the shear line, which is the entire purpose, I'm sure.

I've never heard of these pins before, so anything anyone knows about them is appreciated.
BTW, does anyone know how to put the lock back together? :oops: I can't figure out how to get the tiny springs back in the tumbler.
Kayvon
 
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Joined: 5 Feb 2004 13:54
Location: Tucson, AZ

Postby possamai » 5 Feb 2004 15:01

There's a small piece about it in the MIT Guide to lockpicking.
You can find the guide somewhere on this website..

check out page 37 of that guide or try to search on google for 'spool driver' cause that's what it's called.. though I think google will turn up a lot more than just info about locks :?
possamai
 
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Postby scientist » 5 Feb 2004 15:35

Really no way to get the pins back in

best method I have heard was to use a straight pick to put all the pins above the sheer line, put pressure on, and slowly release the pressure whiel scrubbing back and forth with a rake. This picks the lock in revrse, so it never gets to the spool pins

-sCi
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Postby Grudge » 5 Feb 2004 17:10

So the question is (er... questions are): are most locks like this? That is, do they frequently have these special pins at either end of the lock to help prevent picking? And what is the best way to pick such locks? It's hard to tell which part of the pin has his the shear line, which is the entire purpose, I'm sure.


Those are spool pins or drivers. The are found in better quality locks quite alot (along with mushroom shaped drivers, which are also for improved security). The big secret to pick spools is to press upwards on pins you THINK are set with your pick. If the upwards pressure causes the cylinder to try to turn back toward center (you can feel this with the wrench) this is probably a spool. You must push these pins higher to clear the spool and get the pin up to the shear line. Do some searching here and check the MIT guide for more info.

BTW, does anyone know how to put the lock back together? I can't figure out how to get the tiny springs back in the tumbler.

Yes, but it takes some care and time.

IF the lock have a silver metal plate on top that covers the holes the springs were in? If so remove it, insert the cylinder at a 90 degree angle (so the spring won't fall into the cylinder), drop in the drivers (the pins that dont' touch the key) then the spring and replace the silver shield.

OR there is no silver cover on the top of the lock but the cylinder has holes in the bottom for re-pinning (that is, if you rotate the cylinder 180 degrees the pins fall out of these holes) then stick a pin or toothpick down the hole slide the spring down the toothpick and it will land in the well. Then you must use tweezers to put the driver on top of the spring and use the toothpick to push both into the 'well'. Slide the cylinder into the housing until it just covers that 'well' and pushes the toothpick out of the way. Keep on doing this, from front to back, until all of the drivers/springs are replaced.

OR if you don't have holes or the silver cover you must CAREFULLY put the spring in the farthest hole, place the driver on top of the spring, slide the cylinder over it to cover it and work on the next hole until they are all replaced. A super pain, but I've done it before.

Good luck :)
Grudge
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Postby CitySpider » 5 Feb 2004 18:18

I've done it that way too. In all seriousness, it's probably better to just buy a new lock.
CitySpider
 
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Thank you

Postby Kayvon » 5 Feb 2004 23:42

Sure enough, "spool drivers." The MIT guide describes exactly what I needed to know. I will have to read the entire MIT guide and learn the new vocabulary before I make another post (so I can call "upper pins" drivers instead). Thank you for all your patience to so many newbies I see posting here. I would have pulled my hair out by now. 8)
Kayvon
 
Posts: 123
Joined: 5 Feb 2004 13:54
Location: Tucson, AZ

Postby possamai » 6 Feb 2004 8:52

you know what really helps?
Getting enthousiastic about lockpicking.. Ordering a pickset and than havinf to wait for it for a month..

Trust me, you'll start reading and reading and reading about it because you can't wait anymore until the pickset is delivered :)
possamai
 
Posts: 30
Joined: 13 Jan 2004 7:18


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