New guy. Yes I read FAQ and used search :-) Motorcycle locks

[Duck]

I mess around with old motorcycles and sometimes they come with a nice clean title but no keys.
Key codes are sometimes evident, sometimes require disassembly, and sometimes disassembly will destroy a mechanism containing the lock only to reveal....no code.

Then there is the problem of getting keys cut.

1)"we don't have blanks for &^$&^$"
2)"Daryll ain't here and he's the only guy who knows motorcycle locks"
When will Daryll be back, "He ain't commin back, we fired his ass for hitting the bosses Bourbon"
3)"What did you do, steal it?"

I'm finding blanks on line OK and I read the nice article on impressioning.

However, I have no clue as to what kind of locks are common on the 80's and older bikes I mess with. Are they typically pin tumbler, wafer, ???

Most appear to employ a double cut key similar to 90's Ford truck keys.

It's really not worth picking because I need a key so either impressioning OR if I have the code, cutting my own from the code makes the most sense.

On the code topic, I understand the tumbler/wafer pitch concept for detent spacing but am clueless as to where to start cutting on the blank. How much offset to the first cut? Measured from shank or tip? How do I know if the fully inserted blank is proper or if the depth is determined on by the shank. Please forgive/correct if I am not using the correct terminology.

Say I have a key codes of 01800 and 01809
Is left to right, tip to shank?
Is 0 no cut, one step, max depth?
Is 1 the step closest to 0 followed by 2 or is 9 closest followed by 8?
How do I determing the step incerement for depth absent a know key and code?

Why don't I just pay the $18-$35? I like to do things myself and it turns out that sometimes the code ain't really the code and that's $ down a rat hole. Besides it's no fun waiting two weeks for a code cut key to a new bike and then finding out it's not right.

Thanks,

-Duck

[Shrub]

A code will typically run from the bow (the hanbdle of the key) and 0 will be a no cut.

To gauge the right spacings use some black marker pen on the blank and the insert the key and gentally turn in both directions a few times to mark the key, emove the key and then see if the wafers have marked the spacings.

A 0 cut will be a no cut and a 9 will be the deepest.

What were your other questiuons? its late and ive just got in so sorry for the lack of explanation.

[Duck]

Thanks...

Other questions were...

Curious as to what type tumblers are used in motorcycle locks of 80's 70's 60's
Wafer? pin? ?? Most of the ones I see use keys that are symetrical about the axis and have the two siides cut in similar to a 90's ford automobile key.

And cutting from impression and worry about insertion depth but the more I think abotu it, if there is something like a rotational stop at the tip, it will show up and I can cut for iit as well.

[Omikron]

Mmm....

Methinks this thread borders on automotive discussion, in which case it would be reserved as an advanced topic. Judges?

[digital_blue]

I've been watching it. So far the discussion's been pretty benign. But Omikron is correct in that any discussion of automotive entry is reserved for the advanced forums.

Cheers!

db

[Pickermeapie]

Are you getting the codes off the lock cylinder? Typically they are indirect codes so you wouldn't get the actual bitting of the key unless you have a codes program to decode. And as said, typically it is bow to tip. Most motorocycles have Wafers, just like cars, but I am sure there are pin-tumblers out there. I don't know what type of bikes you deal with but typically Harleys are tubular, Though I don't know when they started using them. Impressioning is a good thing to know, but you can wind up damaging a lock if you do it incorrectly, Especially wafers. It also takes great skill, and if you have never done it before, I would reccomend trying it out on a few test cylinders first and reading all the guides this site has to offer. Hope I helped.

[Duck]

Thank you.

For the bike I'm messing with at the moment, I'm getting the code off the ignition switch/lock assembly. It is stamped on the back into the plastic housing and was clearly done after the plastic was cast so is not a part number. I suspect it's the cut code and not a key to the cut code. It's worth a few blanks to find out. If that doesn't work, I'l try impression.

I suspected wafer type as the blank is the mirror image of the 90's Ford truck blanks.

Motorcycles are not a one time deal. I have 9 motorcycles at present and am always scouting for a deal on an old 'non-runner' that I can fix up. Missing keys is a problem when a bikes been sitting unused in someones garage for the past 10-20 years. On 80's and newer, the gas cap lock is more of a problem than the ignition because there are none available as aftermarket which do not spoil the originality of the bike.

---why am I doing this---
I am aware that it's much more practical to pay someone to make a key. This just doesn't
fit my character of learning how things work and developing the skills to do my own work.

This brings up another question. My baby, a 1977 Kawasaki KZ1000A1 that's been hotrodded quite a bit is a big worry when I leave her parked. She's also very pretty which is a problem in that she attracts attention. I have one of those kryptonite U shaped motorcycle wheel locks. It's stouter than the bicycle version and I use it on the rear wheel. I'm not that confident in it so I still worry. Any suggestions as to what to look for in a brake rotor lock or do you think this kryptonite thing is about as good as I'm gonna find?

-Duck

[wtf|pickproof?]

Check this out!

[wtf|pickproof?]

Aww, double post!

http://www.kryptonitelock.com/inetisscripts/abtinetis.exe/PublicArticleDetails@public?artid=3101&atf=products_item&pgrp=20
looks ok for me.

BTW. the discussion of how to steal bikes will get thist thread moved to the advanced section (where you can't read the replies) or deleted. Please refer to the forum rules for further information.

[Shrub]

[wtf|pickproof?]

Ninjatime ..... I can allready smell the smoke ..... I feel he is comming ..... fear the 1337 ninja skillz of the LP101 ninja

[Duck]

"...is the exact..." is not something that would have occured to me. had you not stated so. You see I do NOT know much about locks, which is why I am here in the first place.

I took the automobile comments literally. Well, I did consider that trucks would be included as well and dutifully set aside my ford truck questions until such time as I might find myself admitted to the closed forum.

-Duck

[Shrub]

[Duck]

Please note my comments have been edited. It would be kind if those making quotations would do the same.

-Duck

[Shrub]

Please note my comments have been edited. It would be kind if those making quotations would do the same.

-Duck

Me
Ive done it, crisis avoided, thread left, everyones happy.

Good thinking duck