Should I make my own lockpicking set or buy it?

[Aqua]

Is this material appropriate for european standard locks? Because in our country we usually use european criterions (in electricity, video formats, etc). But I have doubts about lovks...

Yes, it is a very good material for the european locks too... I had some problems first with my slim DIY picks, as they would bend all the time. These may sound obvious to some of you guys, but i have 2 advice to give on this topic:
- Tempering the middle part of the space between the tip and the handle. The slim picks that i made (really slim... i like to have a good feel inside the lock) were VERY valnurable to bending unless tempered.
- The other thing - the closer to the handle, the thicker the pick.

Secondly, do I need exact dimensions for the lockpicks tips? I haven't seen any on the tutorials, so if I need could you give an example.

You can find a lot of templates on zake's site.
Personally i think that it depends on the lock. What i did was to measure the distances between the pins, and according to those distances, make the picks. What works best for you, is the best solution.

Now.. off to open the presents!:D

[Shrub]

Ill second that,

Hacksaw blades are by far the best material to use for homemade cylinder picks regardless of where you are or what lock your picking.

Only thin parts you need to thin.

You can measuer off a key for the lock rough sizes to make your pick, zekes site is probably the best place to look for templates though.

[Olcaytug]

I bought a cheap grinder, a dremel (I was nearly buying a cheap imitation of another brand for 15usd but I bought the original for 70usd), and a file set. But I couldn't find and hacksawblade with a marking "carbon-steel"...

There were three types of hacksawblades of Profi Brand:
- steel alloy (I dismissed immediately)
- standard (this may be of carbon-steel so I bouht it, it snaps easily and it feels durable)
- bi-metal flexible (I bought it too because it feels extremely strong and flexible, but it snaps relatively more difficultly and deforms a bit near the snapped ends)

which one should I use?

Regards

[digital_blue]

Don't buy the bi-metal blades.

db

[Shrub]

Silicone carbide

Bi metals are ok but tempremental if youre not spot on with grinding and get them warm,

Alloys are a no no as youve guessed.

If you grind it and the sparks are bright youve done well if they are dull throw them away.

[Olcaytug]

Thanks...
Todmorrow I will make my first hook...
I will post its picture as soon as I finish it

I'm grateful to you all

[illusion]

I look forwards to seeing you first pick

I used bi-metal blades and still have a few, but since I did it slowly with a file they are okay

[Shrub]

To be honest a lot of mine are bi-metal and i ground them but silicone carbide are the ones to get, they are a cheaper blade than the bi-metal ones as well.

[Olcaytug]

I have started... and I'm surpriised

it is pretty easy. I was afraid after I watched Pyro's video, but it isn't so diffucult. I tried to make bamboo flutes, pipes, and even a long bow, and I couldn't. But this time I'll do it.

The hacksaw blades snaps easily and it give lots of brite sparks (it is wonderful to watch!). I think I shot the buul's eye!

And I don't use the grinder; dremel is quite easy to use... if you are careful! The only drawback is the fact that you have to turn it off each time you plunge your blade into the water. Because if you don't wipe the water off, it makes the dremel a little wet(dangerous offcourse!)


I burned the paint of the blade a little bit but I will strenghten the pick att the end to make it up

regards

[digital_blue]

... if you don't wipe the water off, it makes the dremel a little wet(dangerous offcourse!)

That never even once occurred to me. Should I be worried? I never dry off the pick after quenching and I've made it so far... hard to see how you could get much water inside the actual dremel, as there's only as much water as what sticks to the surface of the blade after quenching. Mind you, I suppose better safe than sorry.

db

[vector40]

Something you may find helpful is to vice the Dremel down and apply the steel to it like you would with a bench grinder. Control's better than doing it the other way around, in my opinion anyway.

... I can't remember whether Pyro did it like this in the video... if so, you knew this already

[Olcaytug]

... if you don't wipe the water off, it makes the dremel a little wet(dangerous offcourse!)

That never even once occurred to me. Should I be worried? I never dry off the pick after quenching and I've made it so far... hard to see how you could get much water inside the actual dremel, as there's only as much water as what sticks to the surface of the blade after quenching. Mind you, I suppose better safe than sorry.

db

Perhaps I only got my hands wet and dripped it on the dremel

I think using the dremel in my hand feels better. I even think to make the details with the dremel using smaller pieces; I haw a few tips for sanding and I bought a sawblade-sharpener tip.

Also I don't draw the templates on the pic(I may call it now ). Instead I cut out precise images from a paper, and I'll try to place the pick in its place; checking after each stoke.

I hope it will be more precise than following prints on the pick.

regards

[digital_blue]

I don't know that it will be any more prices that having the template affixed to the pick material, but it will work fine none the less.

I'd personally stay away from sanding picks with the dremel attachments. It goes way to quick and takes off way too much material. Far better to sand by hand. I use a 1" bench sander with a 150 grit belt to take off the paint, then hand sand with 150 grit to round off the edges. Following that I use 600 grit paper to take out all the scuffs, then polish with a polishing compound on a hard felt dremel attachment.

When you're done, they look like little mirrors.

db