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Distance between 9-9-9 & 10-10-10

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

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Distance between 9-9-9 & 10-10-10

Postby Olcaytug » 3 Jan 2006 6:40

My bumpkeys were made of existing brass keys.

Please answer this:

What should be the thickness of the "something" the locksmith will put under the keyblank while cutting a 9-9-9 key in order to make it 10-10-10?

Please, I'm in a hurry: I was just going out but remembered this!

(Sorry to post the same message twice but I really need it)
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Postby Chrispy » 3 Jan 2006 8:01

Many ways to do it. One would be lifting the existing bump key up out of the vice a fraction and cutting further into it. Two would be to file further down than a 9 cut.

I don't quite get what you mean by:

What should be the thickness of the "something" the locksmith will put under the keyblank while cutting a 9-9-9 key in order to make it 10-10-10?


:?
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Postby Olcaytug » 3 Jan 2006 8:09

I'll have the keys cut by a locksmith. It is advised that the locksmith should place a small piece of something between the stop on the key machine and the keyblank. What should be the thickness of that "something"?

Regards
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Postby vector40 » 3 Jan 2006 8:16

It's called the fictional "10" cut because the idea is to put it the same distance below the 9 position as the 9 is below the 8 -- one space, in other words.

Anywhere in that GENERAL region (it's really a very vague notion; the real goal is just to get a little below the 9) is surely fine.
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Postby Olcaytug » 3 Jan 2006 8:22

vector40 wrote:It's called the fictional "10" cut because the idea is to put it the same distance below the 9 position as the 9 is below the 8 -- one space, in other words.

Anywhere in that GENERAL region (it's really a very vague notion; the real goal is just to get a little below the 9) is surely fine.


Thanks!!!

Then I'll make him put a few paper sheets(2 or 3) under the key blank!
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Postby vector40 » 3 Jan 2006 8:43

I would actually really like to hear from anyone who has specifically tried bumping both ways -- with "bottom" cuts (9's or equivalent) and with "below bottom" cuts (10's or equivalent) -- and found the latter to work significantly better. Or who found the opposite, any data.
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Postby zeke79 » 3 Jan 2006 9:10

I simply use a piece of feeler gauge that is 1/2 of the manufacturers depth of cut graduations. So take schlage for instance with .015 between cuts, I would use a .007 or .008 piece of shim stock to give me what would be on a schlage key a 9 1/2 cut.

This is how I currently cut my bumpkeys on an ITL950. I have had more success this way than with the standard deepest cut bump key. Sometime back, I cut some bumpkeys for Chucklz so he could experiment with the same principal. If he still lurks around maybe he could chime in with his findings aslo.
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Postby Shrub » 3 Jan 2006 10:03

As Zeke said it depends on what lock it is as a depth is differant depending on lock.
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Postby Shrub » 3 Jan 2006 10:03

Oh and the spacer goes under the key in the vise not between the stop :wink:
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Postby Pickermeapie » 4 Jan 2006 0:32

Wouldn't it be easier just to cut a little deeper than putting paper under the key? Unless you are using a Multicode, but even then all you need to do is cut by micrometer.
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Postby vector40 » 4 Jan 2006 2:19

Most code cutters aren't really set up to cut to nonexistent depths.
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Postby Varjeal » 4 Jan 2006 10:25

Actually, the ITL950 is perfectly set up to do so...it can be programmed temporarily to cut deeper or shallower in a few simple steps.

The HPC blitz's are also good for this as well. Since each cut is made by manually turning a lil' wheel, the user can deliberately over cut.

Not sure if the others can do such, but those two in particular are uniquely suited.
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