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Euro cylinders, new one on me.

European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.

Postby Aqua » 19 Jan 2006 18:27

I apologise for the double post, but i was given an answer to my question, while typing my last post, and didn't see it until i posted. :/

Tattoo Guy wrote:Aqua

The small pin you can see at the front edge of the lock is indeed an anti drill pin.
This pin has no effect on the picking of the cylinder as it only serves to stop it from being drilled and does not protrude into the keyway.
On some cylinders some of the actual pins are hardened as well but you would not be able to distinguish these just by looking at the bottom edge of the cylinder.
Hope this helps.

Indeed it does answer most of my questions.
Thank you Tattoo Guy :)

So..to sum up (if there would be anyone, who would try to find it):
I. If there is a one differently marked pin on the bottom of the lock, from the key-side - it does mark the anti-drill pin.
II. The marked anti-drill (fortified) pin does not go into the keyway, so in effect - it provides no extra security against picking.
III. Some normal pins (in the higher-class locks?) may be made of a stronger alloy to give extra security against drilling, but there are no distinguishing marks to tell us if those pins are actually in the lock one is up against.
IV. Some different brands of locks have other security measures against drilling, like for example: ISEO plugs have a small groove (don't really understand the purpose...but hey! What you say, I accept :D)

(Just to add, in case somebody was wondering: i really am against drilling locks. The only purpose i'm gathering this information lays in the sole purpose of finding more information about security overally, so db don't be mad about this whole drilling thing :))

illusion wrote:darnit I'm still waiting to get hold of a Mul-T-Lock... if you beat me picking it first.... then.... I'll probably cry :lol:

Not to worry. I have my exams, starting monday, and lasting untill feb.8th. And besides - something's wrong with my dremel, so i can't make the picks i've designed for the M-T-L untill i get it fixed.
Aqua
 
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Location: Poland /Gdansk

Postby Shrub » 19 Jan 2006 18:28

Dont iseo?
Shrub
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Postby nicholls » 19 Jan 2006 18:29

Illusion: Cool, i guess the transfer of energy pushes on to the bottom pins then, rather than sideways?

mmmm

I shall rake some MUL T LOCKS to practice on!!!!!!!!
Don't kid a kidder, don't lock a locksmith,
Can we keep wheel clamps if we open them?
nicholls
 
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Joined: 24 Dec 2005 11:54
Location: West Yorkshire, UK

Postby nicholls » 19 Jan 2006 18:33

In responce to Aqua and the world of euro cylinders:

Anti drill pins are rubbish, if there are two as in gege locks you can still go smack in the middle of them below the shearline with a 3mil bit. and with all you can hit them above the shearline.

Is there any shearline security in any of these locks??? its a bit worrying!
Don't kid a kidder, don't lock a locksmith,
Can we keep wheel clamps if we open them?
nicholls
 
Posts: 73
Joined: 24 Dec 2005 11:54
Location: West Yorkshire, UK

Postby Shrub » 19 Jan 2006 18:43

If there was you would be in trouble, how ever would you get a lock open? :twisted:
Shrub
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Postby illusion » 19 Jan 2006 18:54

Don't be silly.... it was all covered by his 'training' ... the one that teaches how to drill curtained locks, but not pick them... :roll:
illusion
 
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Postby pcbear » 19 Jan 2006 18:57

Is the groove to prevent ( or hinder ) drilling then, it was my original question :roll:
pcbear
 
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Location: Kent

Postby pinky » 19 Jan 2006 18:58

keyprint do an attachment to add to your pick gun to defeat dimple locks at about £30, works on a few.

iseo standard 5 and 6 pin cylinders are generally a 30 second pick if that, the thumb turns fall open on a wire turner, the R6 are alot trickier with good anti picks, had very few on pick gun, but they do hand pick and can be bumped open.
Now the R11 is a different ball game altogether.

anti drill pins nicholls are not their to stop you drilling a lock, they are there purely as a measure to slow you down and prolong the entry, as the noise and time required will deter a thief, these locks are thief resistent not locksmith proof.
pinky
 
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Postby nicholls » 20 Jan 2006 5:42

I think the groove is a design feature to easily guide a key into the hole like the drilled part on the plug which guides the 'serrated' key into position.

:( Illusion that wasn't nice. I'm drastically learning fast, when I went for my training I had absolutley no idea of how mortice locks worked, they just showed me picking techniques with a 2 in 1 and lever picking (poke wire version). But considering the fact that I take time to pick cylinders now, I have found that patience is a virtue to open them. As for curtained locks I want a curtain pick, whats best CB or HPC???
Don't kid a kidder, don't lock a locksmith,
Can we keep wheel clamps if we open them?
nicholls
 
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Joined: 24 Dec 2005 11:54
Location: West Yorkshire, UK

Postby pinky » 20 Jan 2006 7:20

hpc dont not make a curtain pick, and the cb by far
pinky
 
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