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Perfect material for Tension Tools?.. How to treat it?

When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.

Postby dark_desparado66 » 15 Jan 2006 3:32

well i did take a short course in metallurgy in high school and you CAN heat metal up to bend it while still keeping its properties. the trick though is to no "burn" it which is basicly just making it too hot.

if you were to bend something say as big as the flap of a pair of glasses i would personally recommend a little butane torch, most commonly reffered to as a "crack-torch" them teachers sure taught us right didnt they? anyways you heat the metal up EVENLY just slowly move your flame back and forth over the area you want to bend.

TIP. place the metal just at the tip of the flame to start with and slowly engulf the specimin with the flame untill you reach the optimal temperature.

then slowly and CAREFULLY bend it to the shape you want it while making sure to keep it within the heat range. this is where the torch comes in handy, most have a base to keep it standing upright (the politically correct term for this torch is a craft torch)
Either use a couple pair of pliers or thick gloves cause its gonna be hot!

After you have it bent to the desired shape you have made the metal weaker just by heating it up bummer huh? but ive got a solution for that...

i call it tempering

Tempering the metal is another way of giving that hard working, good looking HOT piece of metal its strength back

While still making sure the metal is hot enough to bend, dip that metal into the coldest bucket of water you can find. you therefore have bent metal efficiently while allowing it to keep its properties. well that was rather nice of you :)


In a nutshell what we have learned here today Ladies and Gentleman is this

Hot metal burn skin - Ice water Soothe burnt skin - Hot metal hates ice water - Ice water always wins

Metals regain their properties when rapidly cooled.

Melting point of steel is between 2300 degrees to 2700 degrees,
But you dont need to get that high, the 1000 to 1500 Degree range should be more than adequite

DO NOT heat anything that has a gold content of more than 30%. When gold goes through a smelting process they try to remove contaminants from the metal by introducing cyanide to it. even though they try to remove the cyanide from it there is still enough in there to kill you if you breathe it in Now im sure cyanide is a chemical known to the state of california that can cause cancer birth defects and a slight case of death

remember to always wear protective gear when doing ANYTHING that can cause physical harm. as for emotional harm as long as the metal doesent hold any sentamental value im sure youll be fine


And that folks is a short guide on tempering metal
I hope you have found this useful and entertaining at the same time
if you need anymore info either message or email me or do a quick search on metallurgy with your favorite search engine, now if youll excuse me im going to go rest my fingers :)
If it aint broke, Dont fix it. Just take it apart and see whats going on inside!
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Postby dark_desparado66 » 23 Jan 2006 7:05

i gotta emphasize on heating the metal evenly again. i was just tempering one of my picks and got distracted by the tv... well this pick is getting melted down again :D
If it aint broke, Dont fix it. Just take it apart and see whats going on inside!
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Postby Shrub » 23 Jan 2006 7:30

1) Youve double posted which isnt a good thing to do.

2) Your wrong, you havent tempered anything all yuve done is to harden the metal and make it brittle, please search the site for the proper way to heat treat materials and dont post fiction as fact, your metallurgy class was obviously wasted as quenching (thats the proper word) your metals straight away does not give the material its properties back.
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Postby pickin » 23 Jan 2006 19:40

back to subject .....

Eyeglasses are usually made of alloys today so that they are flexable.

The bath that they use to adjust the ear pieces heats the metal just enough to let it bend easily. Usually its a sand type substance that they dip it into.

As for trying to heat and temper and what not no idea but look at it this way... you have 2 arms on your glasses to work with if one fails you do have a backup.

On a side note keep in mind that in the US you can donate your old glasses frames for a tax write off.
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Postby spQQky » 23 Jan 2006 21:45

pickin wrote:The bath that they use to adjust the ear pieces heats the metal just enough to let it bend easily. Usually its a sand type substance that they dip it into.


Actually it's warm table salt...not sand. I forget the exact temperature, it's been many moons since I worked at an optician shop. You could put your fingers in the salt without getting burned , probably around hot tap water temps.
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Postby pickin » 23 Jan 2006 23:46

I stand corrected :? (Ive asked but most peeps there seem to think its sand though noone new for sure)
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Postby spQQky » 24 Jan 2006 0:03

pickin wrote:I stand corrected :? (Ive asked but most peeps there seem to think its sand though noone new for sure)


Well we used table salt anyway. I was told it was because it's 'softer' than sand and won't scratch the plastic frames and lenses while moving the glasses around in it. You don't want to just let it sit in the heated salt, you kind of swish them around to get a better and even heating of the materials to be bent or adjusted. I'm pretty sure that sand would work equally well if you're not concerned about minor scratching.
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Postby Gear Head » 24 Jan 2006 4:08

Tempering is an Art. When trying to test the carbon content of mysterious metal, other than watching the spark's lenghts, you can drown it in water just as you said, and if it didn't explode then, it deffinatly will with a tap from a hammer.

As far as tempering, you just need to be above 300 degrees to lose or gain it. It's the duration that counts, and the initial quenching. You are trying to align the carbon then freeze it in that position. It's hard to do, and certain metals will air harden, and you have to let them cool down to room tempurature slowly from a temper. If you guys are using hacksaw blades and the like, odds are it is a good steel that requires attention to it, and wiperblades are most likely spring steel, and should be treeted the same. Mild steel you can dunk in water, and get it kind of hardened, when people discuss additives to the water such as sea salt, that is almost what is known as a superquench which tries to give it a better temper. Different metal behaves and tempers out in different ways.

If you are using anything but mild steel, it is probly a bad idea to fully quench it in water. Mild steel gets its name in reference to the carbon content, so it has a better tolerance to water, and quenching quickly.
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Postby Gear Head » 24 Jan 2006 4:15

Just don't heat the eyeglasses up too much, and you should be in good shape. Odd's are it's some crazy alloy, you just need to heat it enough to bend it without breaking it, but not so hot the metal loses it's composition. I would assume it has some titanium in or some similar crazy metal, and probly air hardens, and will be ok.
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Postby Bonuts » 12 Feb 2006 22:41

Shrub wrote:As a side note does anyone know what wire braces for teeth are made from? strikes me it may do for somthing :?


Wires are typically Stainless, but some of the newer ones are NiTi (Nickel Titanium, 50-50.6w/o Ti) which is a shape memory alloy that exhibits super-elasticity (It bends (seemingly) past the point of yield but springs back, I'm not going to get into why it does this, but it is pretty interesting) when heat treated appropriately. It would be an interesting experiment to make a pick and wrench out of it and see what results you get... I'm afraid that you would have to make them too thick to be useful if you wanted good tool feedback.
You are the same decaying organic matter as everything else.
We are the all-singing, all-dancing crap of the world.
We are all part of the same compost heap.
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small allan key

Postby baddboy1 » 13 Feb 2006 20:39

small allan keys make great tension tools have one i filed down just to try and makes feeling the pins realy easy on cylinders
DOHHHH
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