"Best" lock won't set in locked position [photos]

[Jay J. McCool]

Taking Shrub's advice, I insert the flat side of the pick into the other end of the keyhole (the side opposite the driver pins.)

Doing this definitely allowed the core to rotate past the 180 degree mark, but not by a whole lot. I still can't get the core to set in the locked position. Is the problem the same - that there are spring pushing pins into the keyway, and I'm just not able to hold them in place?

More pictures.

[Shrub]

Not sure then, perhaps a damaged lock didnt you say it was an old one, perhaps it was removed due to this problem.

It could be now the pins sticking in the other side but looking at the rotation youve got i doubt it.

Looks like its time to find a way to strip it down, i take it the back of the lock hasnt been dented by a drop or anything making it stiff, try a screwdriver to gently turn it further but dont force anything.

[vector40]

For sure the pins have cleared the keyway gap now. Sounds like a different problem.

[Chucklz]

Im having a heck of a time understanding exactly what you mean here. Do you mean that you picked it once, and then could rotate it back and forth without having to pick it again?

[Jay J. McCool]

Im having a heck of a time understanding exactly what you mean here. Do you mean that you picked it once, and then could rotate it back and forth without having to pick it again?

I use the term "set" to describe a scenario where the springs are pushing the driver pins down, preventing the core from rotating. When the lock is "set" it must be picked or a correct key must be inserted to allow rotation of the core.

In it's current state (we will call this the "default" state,) the core is firmly set at "unlocked" - it will not rotate, regardless of torque, unless picked or the proper key is inserted.

From the "default" state, if I pick the lock and rotate clockwise, it halts as shown in the most recent pictures, slightly past the 180 mark. The lock will not "set" at 180 degree clockwise rotation, so reverse torque can be applied to return it to the original state (unlocked, 180 degree counter-clockwise rotation.)

Alternatively, from the "default" state, the lock could be picked and rotated counter-clockwise. In this case, the core will rotate a full 360 and set at the "default" state again.

Does that make more sense?

EDIT: the deadbolt/latch never moves. When the clockwise 180 rotation has been performed, the latch can't be pushed in - in the "default" state and during the counter-clockwise 360 rotation, it can be pushed in; but the latch will never move from rotation of the core due to torque, clockwise or counter-clockwise. Does this lend evidence to the theory that the latch is broken?

[Jay J. McCool]

Here're some pictures with markings to pamper my ugly explanation.

[vector40]

Yes. It sounds broken, or at least nonfunctional the way it's set up.

[funboy79015]

In all your pictures the bolt seems to be in the same position. Does the bolt even try to move when you pick it in either direction?

[Chucklz]

Nice pictures.

Your lock is pretty well stuffed. The core is fine though. Even though you cant install it for use, its perfect as a picking specimen.

[Jay J. McCool]

Does the bolt even try to move when you pick it in either direction?

It does try to move with the counter-clockwise full 360 rotation, but it "releases" after the 180 mark. Note that it doesn't actually move, it just "tries" as you would say - I can feel the latch almost move, but then it "slips" as the core continues rotation.

I think Chucklz summed it up. The lock is farked. It's good pickin' practice, especially since you can just keep pickin' it in the same direction over and over without even changing torque. I'll probably crack it open at some point when I feel I've truly mastered it, just to see what might be the problem with the latch.

The lock was probably changed out however long ago because it's broken. Dorm locks see lots of abuse. Thanks for the replies and sharing of knowledge. I hope some other people got some use out of this discussion, too.

[Chucklz]

Jay J.....
You used the term "fark"... Are you a farker as well?

[Jay J. McCool]

Jay J.....
You used the term "fark"... Are you a farker as well?

I tend to use nonsense terms (e.g. "fark," "foible," "filk," "hob," "abble", etc.) to explain in a "nice" way something that's messed up. I wasn't familiar with fark.com (a blog) or the negative vibe some attribute to the term "fark" in reference to the forementioned blog (according to urbandictionary.com.)

So if you mean to ask if I actively read the fark.com blogs, then I have to answer "no" - although I may have to check it out now that I'm aware of it. Alternatively, if you mean to ask if I am a dimwit (as urbandictionary would have it,) then I'd like to answer "no" here as well; however, I'll reserve that judgment to be made by the community.

[illusion]

Edit.... actualy that was a bit distasteful

[Chucklz]

I meant as an active participant on the fark.com community. We are referred to as farkers. I don't know where the negative vibe comes from.

[raimundo]

In that first set of three photos, the middle one shows the plug turned to about one oclock, or two oclock, if it goes there and just stops, what you should try is to pull straight out on the pick and tensor together without releasing the tension, or trying to manuver the pick around the pins to help it come out of the keyway, just lift them both right out without helping them get out of the keyway, (there might be a little suprise for you if you do this)