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Unmovable pin in tubular lock

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

Unmovable pin in tubular lock

Postby AtomSphere » 2 May 2006 3:07

I have the key for this tubular lock.

When its in the locked position, the bottom pin doesn't seem to be able to move inwards at all even when there is no tension...

Then when in the unlocked position, the top and bottom pins are unmovable again without tension. whats up with this weird thing? I am still a newbie and have avagerage sucess on opening up those tumble pin locks.

My only tool is this http://www.lockpicks.com/index.asp?Page ... &ProdID=20

I've read the basics on tubular locks which seems pretty much similar to tumble pin locks system except the pin is all laid out in a circle...
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Postby datagram » 2 May 2006 3:38

Do you have the key for the lock? Look at the bitting.

Also, if you have the key...does it open? If not, then it might be defective.
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Postby AtomSphere » 2 May 2006 4:12

The keys open it up just fine.

The keys have the grooves very deep (have to insert the key deep to contact the pins) on the right, left, and bottom
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Postby datagram » 2 May 2006 5:48

If the key has very deep cuts, perhaps that pin is just barely touched. It should still move, though...but if the key opens the lock, look at that specific pin on the key and see how it is set.
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No Photos?

Postby raimundo » 2 May 2006 8:55

No Photos, so I can't be sure, but does the pin look different, like all the others are brass, and this one looks like steel or is of a smaller diameter, off set from the eightpoint spacing, this may not be a pin at all, there are some tubular locks that have immobile, slightly smaller diameter pins that are really just wards to keep key not cut to pass them out, also keeps out the pick. Try a bic on it, the ward will help it work by acting as a tensioning point.
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Postby AtomSphere » 2 May 2006 18:01

It looks like a 7 pin tubular lock. The pin on the upper right (when in locked position) looks like its the only brown coloured pin there. The rest are gold coloured pins.

I am sorry but i don't know of a relyable place to host pictures.

When i turned the lock to the unlock position(left), it seems that the pin which used to be the bottom pin in the locked position can move in and out but the pin refuses to move when in the locked position.

When in the unlock position, the top and bottom pin (left and right pins when locked) refuses to move to. Its like there is something in the top and bottom preventing the pins from moving.

Any such tubular locks?
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Postby AtomSphere » 2 May 2006 18:32

Image
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Postby AtomSphere » 3 May 2006 0:58

http://sentrysafe.com/Products.asp?r=2&s=15

This is the lock i am trying to break without a key
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Postby AtomSphere » 3 May 2006 19:17

nobody got a clue to the problem i am facing :?:
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Postby Shrub » 3 May 2006 19:22

Your lock pic isnt great and your link is to a fire safe.
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Postby AtomSphere » 3 May 2006 20:25

yup. thats my firesafe that i am trying to crack.

The bottom pin does not seem to have spring tension at all and the pin seems to move in and out (pulled out) freely as if there is no resistance and spring behind it (all without putting tension on the tension wrench.
The rest of the 6 pins springs back when they are compressed. Since its a fire safe, i assume there is some sort of anti-picking measure installed? or isit i just suck? :cry:

Higher resoulution of the tubular lock

Image
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drilling

Postby raimundo » 4 May 2006 8:36

when they drill the holes for these pins, they try to be on exact centers, but that can vary. while a straight plug may be gang drilled, I cant see how a gang drill would be made to drill these, therefore, its probably a single drill bit, and the part rotates an eighth of a turn for each successive drillling. if there was a chip in the vise or some other obstruction, this could cause a variation that would keep the driver pin and spring below the core flange in an already picked position. can anybody see what Im describing?
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Postby AtomSphere » 4 May 2006 19:42

so the bottom pin is like picked already :?:
The bottom and top pin is the same too when i turned the lock left to unlock it
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Re: drilling

Postby datagram » 4 May 2006 23:22

raimundo wrote:when they drill the holes for these pins, they try to be on exact centers, but that can vary. while a straight plug may be gang drilled, I cant see how a gang drill would be made to drill these, therefore, its probably a single drill bit, and the part rotates an eighth of a turn for each successive drillling. if there was a chip in the vise or some other obstruction, this could cause a variation that would keep the driver pin and spring below the core flange in an already picked position. can anybody see what Im describing?


That would make sense, but wouldn't interaction with the key make this noticable? If the key has to line up correctly with all the pins, and one is off, your key might not be able to go down all the way, as that pin is out of position. Of course it depends on how far off that pin is; it might not be noticable.
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 4 May 2006 23:40

Well to be honest i would leave it alone, i have a similar setry firebox for my tax stuff payckeck stubs and checks and what ever else, if the key works just leave it alone. But if your intersted in tubular locks ebay has onse for 15 bucks or so. I am not beign rude just saying dont pick it because you rely on it.. if not pick away :D but i had a smaller setry firebox (the littel black ones) and i practiced on that as it was my first lock anyway after picking to much the wafers jammed and i had to dremel it open and buy a new one. For a little bit more your can buy a clear one to see whats stumping you here. Good luck anyway buddy :D


Andy
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