Proposed Pin Tumbler Bypass Technique

[Exodus5000]

So I was sitting around thinking of a tool I could build that would defeat pin tumblers easier than picking (it involved springs that would raise the pins far enough to meet the shear line, but not have enough pressure to push past it breaching the pin) when another idea hit me that I think is far more plausible.

This is only a theory, so don't blast it, just leave some feedback on if you think it's plausible.

The idea is to get a very strong straight steel rod and apply a quick drying adhesive (glue?) to it.

-Insert the rod into the lock so that it binds to every bottom pin in the lock.
-You would then lift the steel rod as far as you can so that every pin is breaching the shear line.
-Now insert a very strong tension wrench and apply a great deal of tension, enough that would normally keep all the pins at the top of the plug.
-While maintaining this tension you would pull down on the rod, pulling all the bottom pins with it. The tension would be enough however to keep the top pins above the shear line.

Think it has any chance of working? It'd have to be a strong enough adhesive bond to pull the bottom pins down even with the tension being exerted on it from the shear line...

[Jason13]

Never heard of tht before but you dont no it may work.


You go try it out

[ThE_MasteR]

Sounds pretty good, you'll need super glue, very stroung glue. Here's a tip..take a wiper insert, grind the long side down so that it is about a MM or a MM 1/2 thick, then go on from here.

Also, you might want some chewing gum to hold the wiper insert in place while the glue binds with the pins. Then take off the gum.

Try this one out, because I hade a similar idea, but involved very expensive equipment.

[chrisjc33]

I have two words for you spool pins

[Exodus5000]

I have two words for you spool pins

Spool pins wouldn't matter because they'd already be breached, but serrated bottom pins WOULD make a difference. Good thing they're fairly uncommon.

[ThE_MasteR]

I have two words for you spool pins

Spool pins wouldn't matter because they'd already be breached, but serrated bottom pins WOULD make a difference. Good thing they're fairly uncommon.

I am sure there's something we are not thinking about.

[Exodus5000]

I know, I'm kinda skeptical about my idea too. Maybe someone will come up with a solid flaw. Who knows, I may even get motivated enough to test it tonight.

[ThE_MasteR]

I just thought of something. How are you going to drop the stick with wards in the way ? Like so,

http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/2677/untitled6he2.jpg

[Exodus5000]

I just thought of something. How are you going to drop the stick with wards in the way ? Like so,

http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/2677/untitled6he2.jpg

Ahh, good point. The rod might be able to be dropped far enough down if it were fairly flat though, so that it could rest on the top ward and be thin enough to pull the bottom pins down enough still.

[ThE_MasteR]

If you can find a way to wiggle your way around the wards it would definitly work, but that's going to break the glue so..If the tolerances in the chambers allow you to move the stick maybe a 5 to 10* angle maybe it'll work.

[Exodus5000]

Who knows, maybe even just gluing the rod in a place where there is clearance to pull far enough down would work too, like on the far right in the keyway example you gave.

[Exodus5000]

I don't know if super glue would be strong enough? It definately cures quickly. Maybe there's a better glue choice.

[ThE_MasteR]

I just thought of something. How are you going to drop the stick with wards in the way ? Like so,

http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/2677/untitled6he2.jpg

Ahh, good point. The rod might be able to be dropped far enough down if it were fairly flat though, so that it could rest on the top ward and be thin enough to pull the bottom pins down enough still.

It would really need to be very thin, but not to think or else it'll snap when pulling down.

Plus I found another flaw...

The thinner the "rod" the less surface the glue has to bind with the pins which means a "not so good" contact, and we don't want that.

[cracksman]

Very nice idea, It might work on a Kwikset or other with simple wards, would be messy though.

What if you developed a small tube with holes, inside the tube was a slightly smaller tube with the same divots aligned with it. At the base of the tube a simple thumb screw. Insert the tube allowing all pins to fall in their little holes, tighten the thumb (sliding the inner tube forward and catching the pins in place). You now literally have the pins clamped in place (and you don't glue your fingers together ).

There is the obvious problem of pin spacing, etc. It would also be difficult to get a small enough tube, perhaps a rectangle, triangle, etc., but it would accomplish your goal and be reusable.

I wish I could draw a picture of what I mean, it makes sense in my head anyways. I like your idea though, very novel way of looking at the problem.

[ThE_MasteR]

Very nice idea, It might work on a Kwikset or other with simple wards, would be messy though.

What if you developed a small tube with holes, inside the tube was a slightly smaller tube with the same divots aligned with it. At the base of the tube a simple thumb screw. Insert the tube allowing all pins to fall in their little holes, tighten the thumb (sliding the inner tube forward and catching the pins in place). You now literally have the pins clamped in place (and you don't glue your fingers together ).

There is the obvious problem of pin spacing, etc. It would also be difficult to get a small enough tube, perhaps a rectangle, triangle, etc., but it would accomplish your goal and be reusable.

I wish I could draw a picture of what I mean, it makes sense in my head anyways. I like your idea though, very novel way of looking at the problem.

In other words, you are catching the pins with pure friction. Nice. but no tubes would fit in there..