Proposed Pin Tumbler Bypass Technique

[p1ckf1sh]

it worked twice on each(after refiling the "cups") but the locks do get pretty gummed up. nothing some acetone didnt fix though.

What kind of glue did you use? Regular superglue (cyanacrylate based)? Liquid or gel?

[What]

i used super thin superglue(it sets in 1-5 seconds) the first time.

then i tried the gel and wiped off the excess(it sets in 10-30 seconds).

[What]

forgot to mention, the gel works better.

[J.Bargs]

Not to go off your topic here on the sucess of your "sticky rod" pick idea, but would it be possible to fit an extremly thin piece of metal in between the cylinder and the lock itself and then push pins up with a pick while sliding in the thin strip of metal between the top and bottom pins to have all the top pins at the shear line? (After this of course you would just turn the cylider to unlock the lock)

[What]

yes, that is also called shimming.

but it only works from the back of the lock.

[TOWCH]

The plug has a collar to prevent it from being pushed through the lock when the correct key is inserted. It also prevents you from shimming the lock from the front, but there is no such collar on the back of the plug. The anti-shoplifting tags you find in CDs have little strips of metal in them that are perfect for this purpose.

[vector40]

I have wondered whether it would be possible to shim from the front using specialized tools.

[ThE_MasteR]

We are going to need a video of this please.

[illusion]

If you drilled a hole at the front of the lock you might be able to shim using a thin piece of wire. The overlap between the plug and the housing MIGHT be possible if using thin Mica, but I doubt it.

[Big Dave]

i often ponder on the ultimate pin tumbler bypass tool and although your idea has a theoritcal possibilty of working in reality the only way this could work if all the pins where the same length due to the fact that when the rod is glued to the underside of the pins you will only have the option of moving all the pins up and down at the same time

[cL4y]

me like a lot .......try it.Try it again,perfect it,then make a tool out of it.
You could call it "The Exodus Bypass Rod" what a witty name! lol

[NKT]

This is a great thread.

Heavy tension and lifting the pins up out of the way is a great idea.

What,

i tried it on two differently keyed mortice cylinders made by american lock co.

Which type? I'm going to try this trick today. I forsee issues with some locks that have relatively short bottom pins c.f. top pins, but in those cases, a series of small wires might be perfect for getting past them.

As for shimming the shearline, there are very, very few locks that are badly enough made for this to work. I took a 50p rim cylinder out a door two weeks ago that was, but it took under 10 seconds to open anyway. Basically, if you can shim it, you can probably rake it in under a minute without issue. The other problem I find is that even with the best shims, you can't tell how far they are moving in. You need to mark them with something so you can tell they are moving in, so you know which pin to be playing with next.

[raimundo]

I have a brass padlock from some asian country that has no anti shim flange on the front of the plug, and it can be shimmed from the front, I have done it. also many years ago when the first aluminum frame glass doors were made for storefronts, before the adamrite hardware was common, there were locks made to fit in the aluminum frames that had small cylinders that my locksmithboss called 'peanut cylinders', and these could be shimmed from the front, so it is possible that somewhere you may still find this kind of old stuff.

[thedeliciousness]

Something I see wrong with this is the fact that not all pins bind at once.

If the first binding pin has a longer lower pin than the second binding pin, (meaning that the break in pin 1 is higher than the break in pin 2) then you couldn't set pin 2 without pin 1 getting in the way. Pin 2 wouldn't bind and therefore wouldn't set.

Sorry if I'm wrong or if my explanation is confusing, it confused me just trying to write it down.

[certo_uk]

The only think o would worry about is gumming up the lock. It’s a one shot strategy, if it doesn’t work your done have a rather unhappy customer.
May be re stating something already posted buy what about fastening (epoxy maybe) a hypodermic with its end sealed to something stronger and putting come nicks in it so glue can escape.
Fast setting and good bond don’t seem to go together, and glue can be mighty expensive stuff not to mention messy.
Nice thinking outside the box and probily me being a pessimist.

The huge advantage is also that its one time only so if you get it working it would have to be replaced every time it was used.

Would the lock work about after? If its stuck to a stick? If not whats the advantage over drilling?