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My new pick with a bit of science

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

My new pick with a bit of science

Postby LockNewbie21 » 14 May 2006 9:17

I have been making picks for a while now. So this time a took a more mathmatical and scientific approach..i am not to good at math but i did my best. Its similiar to the Falle hooks, but with my own little twists.

1. Angle of the tang is set to exactly 173 degree's, This proved to be the most ideal degree to have it, as it can navigate through high low plugs and set pins with minimal to no touching of other pins what so ever. I used a cutawy i have with a pretty bad high low cut and works great. Although i wouldn't hesitate to say that you could push the degree anywhere from 185 to 167 degrees depending on lock and prefernce, anything above or below these measurements would seem to not work.

2. Instead of a simple hook or flat or rounded head, i used a valley shape with sharp peaks so that the tip would'nt slip from the one pin you were working on and the sharp peaks fit inbetween pins so your not lifting or moving more than one pin at a time.

3. The valley itself i measured by using a standard pin so the fit is perfect, and i finshed the pick off using a 312p emory paper dry, then a 320p emory paper wet, then took some polishing compound cranked the dremel to ten and polised to mirror like as i could get finish.


I am in the process of taking decent pictures of the pick itself, the pick showing the exact 173 degree measurement, and the pick head with a pin resting perfectly in the slot. Its not completely perfect, but one of my best picks with the most thought, once i get some pic's up here tell me what you think. Its not revolutionary but a pretty neat pick.

Oh and the material was from a southord pick with no metal handel, the other side is a bent small diamond for my biaxle...yet to be picked, i figured it was a waste not to make them double ended picks, plus the material was ideal.



Andy
[deadlink]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h17/Locknewbie21/LockNewbie21Sig.jpg[/img]
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Postby USMAN » 14 May 2006 12:30

Thanks For Sharing Mate! Keep It Up, I will be Waiting For Your Pick Images :)
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 14 May 2006 12:49

No prob buddy, like i said there nothing revolutionary just one i tried to get perfect as i could without professional cutting machines, turned out great though pictures coming.




Andy
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Postby illusion » 14 May 2006 12:52

Hmm... Photos would be good, but the idea sounds interesting. :)
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Postby Legion303 » 15 May 2006 3:01

Definitely looking forward to pictures. Is the SO pick you used spring steel? I only have one set from there (jacknife), so I'm not sure whether they use the same material for all their picks.

-steve
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 15 May 2006 4:40

Update: Sorry for the dely, i need to get good pictures i am trying to get every aspect in picture to prove its usefulness.

As for SO they use tempered stainless steal in all there picks, from what i know of.


Also umust repinning my cutaway to the worst high low situation i realize that that to make this pick design effective for all locks (that the tang size fits) i will need to produce an estimate of ten to cover all possible pin combinations. Also alot will depend on the lock to keep it simple, i am going to start with the Kwickset pin combo, this should also work in schlage locks as well. With some mods depending on your location for example the UK and over seas countries will have to be filed down a hair to fit the cylinder.


My final degrees at which the tangs are going to be angled are:
178 degrees
174 degrees (First complete)
171 degrees
169 degrees

The Number degree tang to use is based on the pin configuration meaning for a simple combo (32321) you would use a 178 degree angle.
Then for say a bad combo (17271) then you would use a lower degree such as 169 or 168 degree tang. Notice i only go up to seven, beacuse that is the highest that my KW1 cutaway will go.

My degree's are not written in stone, there just the best angles for manipulating diffrent pin combinations one at a time with little to no interaction of another pin. The Half ball with a valley with sharp peaks is deffinatly the best possible tip.


Pictures are coming, the pick that will be shown is the 174 degree tang pick.

Until i get my pictures are up if anyone has any input or CONSTRUCTIVE critisim, regarding my degree choice or pick head choice feel free to ask.


Andy
[deadlink]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h17/Locknewbie21/LockNewbie21Sig.jpg[/img]
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Postby reactive » 15 May 2006 5:37

I read through you posts and couldn't quite figure out exactly what your trying to do :?
Are you simply trying to make a hook that can push the furthest pin all the way up to set it without touching any of the other pins?

If so, my maths is awesome so I'll do up a nice digram with some equations. I'll repost when I've got something decent to show you :lol:
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 15 May 2006 8:14

I measured the degrees based on pin configurations that i laid out, then tested them in the actual cutawy cylinder to see if the degree was to radical, or just not enough, but i am trying to appomplish a pick that takes a falle hooks but turns them around to make them more hybird, as i didnt want to copy him but just take bits and pieces and build my own theory and ultimatly a brand new tool, becuase if i were to take a step further into actually having someone with the proper machinery make me a few sets, i want to be able to sell them as my idea and not a cheap ripoff of falle picks. Ofcourse falle picks are quite the BMW's of most the picks out there not to mention his tension tools. But just keep stoping back here, making these pictures is a nightmare becuase i have no expiernce with a digital camera my sister is more inclined with the camera so shes going to take the shots i tell her at the angles and i am going to use the photo program to try and clean them up to get the best shot. I know people are waiting but i think its worth it, granted this is my first prototype I'm displying one degree that i have chosen but i will show the idea. Hopefully i can get everything to were i can have a professional with the proper computerized machinery to make me some perfect ones to start selling. But first things first figuring out this camera.


Mods: once i get the picture up feel free to delete my updates and such, i was hoping that once everythings set up this could turn into my first sticky.



Andy
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Postby Legion303 » 15 May 2006 8:50

The best digital camera tip I can give you is, use macro mode if you have it, and take the pictures from about 8 inches away (possibly less). If you don't have macro mode on the camera you'll have to stand fairly far back and zoom in to avoid blurry pictures. I'm really looking forward to seeing this and trying to make one of my own. Thanks.

-steve
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Postby p1ckf1sh » 15 May 2006 9:34

Legion303 wrote:The best digital camera tip I can give you is, use macro mode if you have it, and take the pictures from about 8 inches away (possibly less). If you don't have macro mode on the camera you'll have to stand fairly far back and zoom in to avoid blurry pictures. I'm really looking forward to seeing this and trying to make one of my own. Thanks.

Additional tips:
- Use a tripod if available, if not you can make up something with a bit of cardboard to tilt the camera.
- Use the automatic feature used for self portraits (timed shooting of the pic).

Both of these tips boil down to not actually touching/moving the camera while taking the picture, this gives the best results, esp. when doing closeups.
Due to financial limitations the light at the end of tunnel has been turned off until further notice.
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 15 May 2006 16:27

sound good fellas thanks for the advise.


Opps soryy mods, did i go a little overkill with details. Sorry about that.




andy
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 15 May 2006 17:44

Wheres my edit buttom lol, i forgot to scroll up all my stuff is the there sorry, once i get the pic up this thread my need a little spring cleaning of my pointless post :oops:

I am also looking to get computer cut copies of my original concept, for all those inclined in steal, what machine should i use to make these as perfect as possible? I know i will have to end up having someone do the cutting and programming for ne, just wondering what type of machinary i should consider for the final copy? Thanks guys appresciate all the input up till this point.



Andy
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 18 May 2006 10:21

Okay i am just getting my girlfriend to take the pictures i give up my camera sucks and i can get the angels i need, so i am going to get her to do them :D


Tang update: Since my picks follow the principal of the falle picks, he seems to have a centralized fulcrum in which all the hooks rest of the wards. I have two new picks with the fulcrums at diffrent locations to see which provides best leverage for the given angle.


Also i have made the tips for the small degree bends(Hi low pin combos) where the tip is angled forward, this allows easy etry and enitial grip of the pin to be manipulated, and as i have seen in my cut away its owrks perfect, the sharp peaks grab the pin, and as the pick angles up more the valley will slowly begin to grip around the pin fully securing it the higher you go.

P.s- When i say fulcrum for my picks that is the point where the pick balances on the wards. Pics will explain.
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Postby Blink » 22 May 2006 9:13

Do you have pictures of the picks yet? Even if you would whip something up in CAD, or even MS Paint it would help. I'm interested to see what they look like as I don't really know what to expect.
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Postby LockNewbie21 » 22 May 2006 10:58

K will do i finnally got some free time and kinda got this camera to work? well i will take some basics, gimme a sec here..
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