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by AtomSphere » 31 May 2006 18:38
oh BTW the case has a 3 dial combo lock build into it which i guess is pretty much useless as you guys suggested...
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by What » 31 May 2006 18:41
digital_blue wrote:Regarding the "pull the shackle and turn randomly", there is a more effective and reliable way. Do pull the shackle, but rather than turning the dials randomly, turn each dial feeling for the spot where the friction on the dial loosens up the most. This is the number where the gate is. Once you find the "loose spot" on one number, move to the next. Before too long, you've got that puppy open.
Cheers!
db
i just use my method b/c it works even on very dirty locks and very old locks... 
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by Shrub » 31 May 2006 18:52
Is it a metal or plastic case? i thought the case was supposed to be metal and secured to a wall or floor but i must admit i know very little about guns or storing them as its not somthing i am remotly interested in.
If its plastic or even mobile i wouldnt bother putting extra locks on it, the tabs can just be cut off or the case stolen and broken open anyway.
If its to hold weapons for self protction then you dont want loads of locks keeping it closed anyway.
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by AtomSphere » 31 May 2006 19:04
Shrub wrote:Is it a metal or plastic case? i thought the case was supposed to be metal and secured to a wall or floor but i must admit i know very little about guns or storing them as its not somthing i am remotly interested in.
If its plastic or even mobile i wouldnt bother putting extra locks on it, the tabs can just be cut off or the case stolen and broken open anyway.
If its to hold weapons for self protction then you dont want loads of locks keeping it closed anyway.
Its a plastic case. I know a person can just cut the case open(you cannot break a pelican case). But i would want a person to cut the case then to pick the lock easily.
You see, my case places equipment protection (enviormental protection and shock protection) in the priority. But that case is not cheap too. So if a person manage to somehow get it, i want him to have the firearm without the case then the firearm and the case.
Its like, even if i lose, i don't want to lose that much. I understand almost all locks(all?) can be picked somehow but i want to purchase a lock that is not easily picked and the crook would prefer cutting up the case then to take the trouble to pick it..
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by Shrub » 31 May 2006 19:20
Perahps its the time of night but i dont quite understand that, it seems to contradict itself, surley you would want the case opened and stolen without the firarm or the firearm stolen without the case, the way you want t is the expensive locks and the case and the firearm would be stolen.
Im certainly not having a go but just a bit confused.
If it was mine the holes would get a steel cable through them, the cable would be wrapped around soming like a ground anchor or such like then for locks somthing like a mu-t-lock padlock for example, anything other than a cheap nasty lock is not going to be picked even if the slightest chance happened in that someone would try and pick them.
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by cracksman » 31 May 2006 19:44
If you want to go the cheapest route, a Brinks shrouded padlock would probably do for the case. I completely agree with Shrub about the cable though. If a person can walk off with the case, the lock is irrelevant, they'll just cut open the case at their liesure. I would suggest a trigger lock as well, I have Masters on mine, they suck, but they are better than nothing.
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by AtomSphere » 31 May 2006 19:54
Well, i am weird
But chances of people seeing the case itself will be limited because it would be conceled. And the case can be used to transport other items then firearms
Any guncase that i know so far can be cut open. (steel case even)
I am not going to be like bringing a heavy steel gun case around. Just too tedious.
As said before, the case it not cheap and if a person stole the case, i would want him to choose cutting up the case then taking the trouble to pick the recommended lock.
Any stolen guncase is as good as losing the firearm. So if stolen, he benifits from stealing the firearm by having to destroy the case instead of making it off with a cool case (with that PeliLOCK) and a firearm...
Its like those ink notes in the bank. I heard that when you remove it from the bank, the bunch of ink spills out on all the bank notes making it unusable.
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by Shrub » 31 May 2006 20:02
Ah i see, you dont want the theif to also have a nice case
Well you could go with good quality handcuffs, those could be fastend on you whilst carrying it and also locked in a vehicle whilst traveling or fastend to a ground anchor whilst at home.
A MTL padlock or Medico Biaxial etc etc any of the high security ones will do but i fair suggest that even if you had the PeliLock on there or a tricircle one on it the thief would still break it or cut it as they dont really have to patience or time to pick things not alone make or buy the tools to do it nor the intelligence to do it.
Pretty much any thing sold for motorbike hains could be ok but you seem to be limited to the size of hole in the case which doesnt look more that 8mm - 10mm ish
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by AtomSphere » 31 May 2006 20:02
cracksman wrote:If you want to go the cheapest route, a Brinks shrouded padlock would probably do for the case. I completely agree with Shrub about the cable though. If a person can walk off with the case, the lock is irrelevant, they'll just cut open the case at their liesure. I would suggest a trigger lock as well, I have Masters on mine, they suck, but they are better than nothing.
Yea. The firearm have a trigger lock and cable lock through the action. There are a number of people with little security on their cases and their firearm not locked. If a person would to choose which case to go for, they will rather pick the low security case.
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by AtomSphere » 31 May 2006 23:06
Shrub wrote:Ah i see, you dont want the theif to also have a nice case Well you could go with good quality handcuffs, those could be fastend on you whilst carrying it and also locked in a vehicle whilst traveling or fastend to a ground anchor whilst at home. A MTL padlock or Medico Biaxial etc etc any of the high security ones will do but i fair suggest that even if you had the PeliLock on there or a tricircle one on it the thief would still break it or cut it as they dont really have to patience or time to pick things not alone make or buy the tools to do it nor the intelligence to do it. Pretty much any thing sold for motorbike hains could be ok but you seem to be limited to the size of hole in the case which doesnt look more that 8mm - 10mm ish
OMG thats a very accurate guess! A reall pro indeed
OK guys, i'll look around ebay for the suggested locks. Many Thanks! 
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by AtomSphere » 13 Dec 2006 2:56
Does wearing it in helps increase the time to figure out the combo? Lets say that i pull the silver hinge (?) and keep turning the dials quite often till i "feel" the correct combo(which i did sucessfully) help wear the components till its harder to figure out the correct combo?
I am using this idea from the ease of picking a new pin-lock compaired to an old pin lock...
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by unjust » 13 Dec 2006 12:05
well.....
from a security/thefting standpoint: i woudl compromise that lock with a pair of cable shears or a shortie bolt cutter.
from a securing that case, standpoint i would use something like a targus defcon3 laptop motion sensor/alarm cable lock type to a solid bit of metal. it'll keep it closed, and attached to something immobile, providign an audible alarm if tampered with.
as it's a transport case, and designed mostly to prevent immediate access and unauthorised access in a trusted environment (i.e. your car, or on the bench at the range) the lock you have on it is probably more trouble to open than it is to take a cable cutter to the plastic around the security holes in the case, although any of the suggestiosn here are probably better options. myself i'd look at a good smallish keyed padlock for ease/convience of access.
from a responsible firearms storage capacity, that is NOT a gunsafe, and should not be used as one for general storage IMHO. it IS a very acceptable transport case for many localaties in the usa, provided it is supervised or double locked or concealed locked (many localaties require 2 locks to access a firearm i.e. in locked car in locked glovebox, this wouldnt count as it's a portable case, some it's ok if locked in your trunk in a locked case like that)
for a gun safe for your own liability it needs to be either too heavy to move w/o special effort/equiptment and/or bolted to structure in a tamper proof manner, AND lockable in a (not to this board) difficult manner to bypass. even then you can be held responsible for unauthorized access/removal of your firearms (as shown by the charges against a canadian poliece firearms instructor who's alarmed apartment was broken into (alarm disabled) and his gunsafe drilled and emptied over a peroid of 2 days w/o teh neighbors noticing)
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by raimundo » 13 Dec 2006 13:18
If you take two screwdrivers and put each one through the shackle of the pelilock from opposite directions, then push the handles of the the drivers together, you will probably destroy the pelilock very quickly and leave it unlocked, if you must find a lock for a plastic case, use a very small one that won't accept two screwdrivers in its shackle and make the same test on any lock you want to use, Small locks are usually not very high security, but will keep picks out because there are no commercial picks made for them. everyone just breaks them and replaces them, as the cheapest route to dealing with them. plastic cases and small locks do not make anything secure, a thief would take the case without opening it till later. the case just delays access, and keeps small children out. In any case, security is negligible.
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by AtomSphere » 13 Dec 2006 16:01
raimundo wrote:If you take two screwdrivers and put each one through the shackle of the pelilock from opposite directions, then push the handles of the the drivers together, you will probably destroy the pelilock very quickly and leave it unlocked, if you must find a lock for a plastic case, use a very small one that won't accept two screwdrivers in its shackle and make the same test on any lock you want to use, Small locks are usually not very high security, but will keep picks out because there are no commercial picks made for them. everyone just breaks them and replaces them, as the cheapest route to dealing with them. plastic cases and small locks do not make anything secure, a thief would take the case without opening it till later. the case just delays access, and keeps small children out. In any case, security is negligible.
Yup... Thats my only purpose, to delay acess and protect equipment. But right now these pelilocks killed my trust in them. Simply closing my eyes and playing around with it, anyone here can get the right combo in 2 minutes. Think i might a small brinks lock instead of this weak pelilock.
Brink lock - http://www.lockcity.com/brinks/Products ... 20Padlocks
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by Firearm » 13 Dec 2006 16:40
I agree that a small keyed padlock is the way to go. Any lock on a plastic gun case can be removed quickly by using a vise-grips/pliers and twisting it. The case can still be used without attracting attention since the area where the holes were will be the only area effected. Plastic cases are not good for securing a firearm in any way and will not slow anyone down for long, especially if they have the luxury of taking it somewhere private to open it. Either get a metal case with some kind of internal lock built into the latch mechanism so it destoys the mechanism to open it or just use a small keyed padlock as a simple deterent on the plastic case and keep your eye on it.
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