Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by TAMUmpower » 4 Jul 2006 2:55
Yea, I found that lately ive had more trouble getting my standard wrench to fit in locks and work. So I went on a 2 day pick making spree and made me about 8 different sized wrenches for such a situation.
On a more pressing matter, you finger nails look too pretty. You need to roughen them up some, need to look manly. 
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by Shrub » 4 Jul 2006 8:03
Make a tension wrench from some wiper insert that the bent part is only 2-3mm long, then you tension on the top of the keyway.
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by Kaotik » 4 Jul 2006 13:57
TAMUmpower, I knew someone was going to say something about my nails  , they come in handy in my line of work (Auto Industry), and have had them for so long i can't remember.
Shrub, I have 2 wrenches made from wiper inserts and one of then i flattened out to make wider because I am having a difficult time to find the wider inserts, I would however like to try street sweeper bristles but i live in the country so there is no need for sweepers here. Does anyone have a couple in good condition I can purchase?
So, I have made 3 out of Stainless Butter Knives about an 8th inch wide, they work good and hold their tension very well in all situations.
In conclusion, I will make a 2-3mm T/Wrench today, Maybe shorter or longer by a mm depending if the studs on certain padlocks are in the way.
Thanks m8's
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Kaotik
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by lockedin » 5 Jul 2006 0:14
A small and long flathead screwdriver would also do the trick.
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by Kaotik » 5 Jul 2006 10:53
Lockedin, I havent used a mini screw driver bent to 90 degrees since i first started picking locks 2-3 years ago but I have misplaced it.
I should get me another one, and your right they do come in handy for such an occasion.
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by dwkbb » 5 Jul 2006 22:14
I have the same brand of lock and also bought it at a Family Dollar store. I too was stuck by the pick resistant claim. I have to admit that it is difficult to open, but it is the tension that is the key. There seems to be a lot of slop and varying the tension is how I have been successful. Finding the proper fit for the tension wrench is also a trick.
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by Kaotik » 5 Jul 2006 23:16
dwkbb, funny isn't it...LoL
The one i have was not all that difficult, picked it twice with my hook pick in less than 60 seconds after finding the proper width tension device to use.
I didn't do this but, a hint since you have the key is you could look at the depth of the cuts on the key and raise the pins accordingly, in MOSTLY all cases on a job you will not have the key for reference (unless the keys are lock in and still visible), so it does take some of the challenge out of it but, if you get frustrated enough it can help.
It still requires a feel for things so it's not a total loss for the skill involved.
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Kaotik
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by dwkbb » 6 Jul 2006 9:41
Kaotik,
I do have the key. I think that the problem I have had is that it is easy to overset pins due to the amount of play in the cylinder? I should probably pick the pins in order of resistance. Raking is too hit and miss.
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by Shrub » 6 Jul 2006 11:17
Rakeing isnt picking and if doing this as a hobby hide your rakes in a draw somewhere and learn to pick properly its much more fun and the feeling when a lock opens is a much better hit,
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by LockNewbie21 » 6 Jul 2006 16:24
For your tension wrenchs justmake one or two for the top of the cylinder clase solved. i never pick from the bottom, on the top feeback is much better.
Plus the vast majority of locks have the same top most part of the cylinder.
Andy
[deadlink]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h17/Locknewbie21/LockNewbie21Sig.jpg[/img]
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by Kaotik » 7 Jul 2006 0:53
LockNewbie21 wrote:For your tension wrenchs justmake one or two for the top of the cylinder clase solved. i never pick from the bottom, on the top feeback is much better.
Plus the vast majority of locks have the same top most part of the cylinder.
Andy
Your right, the gap is vastly the same, but a 2-3mm edge does not work for some of the padlocks I have for example Master no. 5, the flange pertrudes (<----Spelling?) or rather extends past the cylinder approximately 2mm.
But, I made one 2.5mm and works well on all others I have including deadbolt and doorknob and brass bodied padlocks. Also, it does give good feed back.

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by LockNewbie21 » 7 Jul 2006 2:35
Yea i found i had the same problem with masters and brinks where they have the lip? i guess you could say thats how i got so fast the at the brinks shrouded tension control can't beat
Andy
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by Kaotik » 7 Jul 2006 17:56
Lip/Flange, were are on the same track here.
I don't own a brinks yet, but i have had the chance to work on some thanks to some good buddies who lost their keys  .
I will try and post some links of the pictures of some of my padlocks ect. if anyone would like to see them.
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by LockNewbie21 » 7 Jul 2006 18:44
HA i drilled a lock for my neihbor.. her daughter doesn;t date the brightest guys thoguth he locked his bike up but the cable missed? i dont no how you do that, but he lost the key and it was a junker i tryed to shim it.
It was so rusted i had no choice, i felt like a murder, but for helping she offered me a job of installing new locks in he sliding glass door and repinning her deadbolt and door knob lock.. she tol dme the guy who she bought the house from still has a set of key for the house
Andy
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