Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by pb2au » 2 Aug 2006 2:55
Master locks bought through ACE usually have some ace markings (ie ACE on the key, or ACE stamped on the lock somewhere). From what I've seen they are IDENTICAL.
JD
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by Bud Wiser » 2 Aug 2006 10:15
But are these two locks also identical to the Brinks R70? They look the same. It looks like Brinks also uses master locks too.
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by LockNewbie21 » 2 Aug 2006 13:03
The R70 has a spring loaded cylinder, its tricky but easy ok ready where going against morals here.
first crank the tension till nopins more, push up whilst reducing tension slightly... then once the pin clicks in crank it again, keep doing this all the way back and it open:O)
Ugg that master one has they stupid key way as the 150, there tough only becuase the cylinder and such is assembled horribly, i find these locks need serious tension to.
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by Bud Wiser » 2 Aug 2006 14:36
So are you saying the r70 is different? I have the ace version which looks identical to the master version, which also looks like the brinks r70. The Ace seems to have a spring loaded cylinder too!
Is the only difference the keyway? If Master makes these locks for ace and brinks, it's hard for me to belive they would deliver better quality to other off brands they build for.
I'm not interested in picking them now, but more interested in knowing what the differences are.
thx
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by LockNewbie21 » 2 Aug 2006 16:52
Mostly suttle, keyway warding maybe pin number, abus discus are the best though, 2 -3 spools i belive, depending on if its 4 or 5 pin, the abus h/e does not have a spring loaded plug
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by !*AMP*! » 7 Aug 2006 9:22
I just found my r70 in a drawer and tried it a bit...unfortunately it was a bit too easy...I mean, it took me about 10 to 15 minutes the first time, but as soon as I found the correct tension I could get it open in under 10 seconds each time...at first I thought something had broken inside making it easier, but all the pins are fine and in place.
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by Bud Wiser » 7 Aug 2006 13:33
I have the Ace hardware version of the R70, which is no doubt a Master lock built with the Ace name, does any one know if the Brink's R70 is also a Master lock and just built with the Brink's name? All three locks look IDENTICAL.
Any way the problem I'm having with my Ace is the pins have a lot of spring force to them! I've tried various amounts of tension but can not feel any of them set or even try to set. Do these locks require even more tension then normal, or am I simply not finding the right pin to begin with. I have not played with it all that much. I've never encountered so much springing force before.
Thx
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by !*AMP*! » 7 Aug 2006 14:45
That was my problem with the R70...
The R70, at least the one I have lying around, takes a HUGE amount of tension to get the thing to open. At first you're going to think the pins are going to bind, but they don't...it just takes some large tension to get the circular shackle to turn around.
I've found that a camalback pick helps a lot with mine, but it could just be the key configuration. The way I can open mine pretty easily, is to insert the camelback, insert tension wrench, apply right pressure, and pull camalback out while fiddling up and down a bit...will only work with right pressure though.
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by Bud Wiser » 12 Aug 2006 20:02
Well feeling rather confident I picked up my Ace version of the R70, using a rigid tension wrench I picked it in 3 minutes! Ok, I admit I also raked too, but found the same thing others have found, the false setting and had to also manually pick a couple of pins, but hey, in 3 minutes! It was much easier with a rigid tension wrench.
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by Bud Wiser » 12 Aug 2006 20:06
Ok, too easy. With racking and picking I can open it in under 1 minute every time now! Definitely use a rigid tension wrench!
(wish there was a edit mode)
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by dmux » 12 Aug 2006 21:05
i still want to see someone pick a american 5200 that we use in the army, i want to make a bump key for one but i dont know what specific key blank they are and i dont want to order a ton of them online
then i could have a huge collection of locks because they are always cutting them off the connexs
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by Bud Wiser » 12 Aug 2006 23:42
Is the 5200 more difficult then the 748?
5200 is a 5 pin, 748 is a 6 pin, recessed to protect from drilling. I have one, it's a monster of a lock, I know I'm not ready to tackle it yet. First I want to crack the Brink's shrouded.
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by ericm115 » 13 Aug 2006 23:30
hooray. I got an R70 last night at WalMart after reading about it here. I looked at all the keys of the ones they had and picked one with a pin:1234 = low high low high. I got it open tonight after a total of about two hours on it. I was getting frustrated because I can open all of my other basic locks (some with security pins, including the shrouded brinks padlock) with no problem. So once I got this one (and learned how to apply the correct tension), I opened it three more times in 15-30 seconds each time. (I only do SPP).
Where do I go from here? I tried to SPP a tubular Brinks bike lock with my short hook and thick tensioner but couldn't. All of the other WallyWorld locks are boringly easy. I want the next step up. Any suggestions? (cheapo locks preferred... I'm broke as all get out.)
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by Bud Wiser » 14 Aug 2006 0:23
Congrads on the r70, it is easy once you apply the right tension!
Have you tried a deadbolt schlage yet? They are fun! I can pick mine, but not consistently like my other locks.
As for padlocks, u might want to consider looking at American Locks, they make very good quality padlocks.
http://americanlock.com/
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