Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by DiamondHead.exe » 11 Aug 2006 16:40
I would realy like someone who has experiance making cutway padlocks to write a tutorial on making one, maybe with a Dremel(c) or similar tool, and with several large company examples such as a couple Masters or Americans.
And , once created i think it should be stickied if written with enough thoughtfullness and explanation.
Thanks ,
<eXe>
DiamondHead is a cool guy. eh picks locks and doesnt afraid of anything.

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by illusion » 11 Aug 2006 17:19
Urmh, just look at previously done cut-away locks and just copy them.
I'm not spending years doing a guide on this, when you could figure it out by spending some time thinking about it.
I really don't want to sound like an arsehole, but you're asking for a serious amount of work here. 
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by DiamondHead.exe » 11 Aug 2006 17:35
I'd rather have someone spend 30 mins on a guide showing previously made pictures of cutaways and little captions with things in lamens terms than spending money and breaking a lock becuas oops i didn't know that that padlock had a part i just gouged to dust with my Tungsten Carbide Cutter Bit.
And , on another note, i looked up the NC state statutes on lockpicking
and my g-d are they vague § 74F-2. Purpose. Locksmiths have the knowledge and tools to bypass or neutralize security devices in vehicles, homes, and businesses. The laws of this State do not protect citizens from the unscrupulous use and abuse of this knowledge and these tools by persons who are untrained or have criminal intent. Therefore, the licensing of locksmiths is necessary to protect public health, safety, and welfare. (2001-369, s. 1.)
§ 74F-3. Licenses required. No person shall perform or offer to perform locksmith services in this State unless the person has been licensed under the provisions of this Chapter. A violation of this section is a Class 3 misdemeanor unless the conduct is covered under some other provision of law providing greater punishment. (2001-369, s. 1.)
§ 74F-4. Definitions. The following definitions apply in this Chapter: (1) Apprentice. - A person who has been issued an apprenticeship designation by the Board. (1a) Board. - The North Carolina Locksmith Licensing Board. (2) Code book. - A compilation, in any form, of key codes and combinations. (3) License. - A certificate issued by the Board recognizing the person named therein as having met the requirements to perform locksmith services as defined in this Chapter. (4) Locksmith. - A person who has been issued a license by the Board. (5) Locksmith services. - Repairing, rebuilding, rekeying, repinning, servicing, adjusting, or installing locks, mechanical or electronic locking devices, access control devices, egress control devices, vaults, and safe-deposit boxes for compensation or other consideration, including services performed by safe technicians. (6) Locksmith tools. - Any tools that are designed or used to open a mechanical or electrical locking device in a way other than that which was intended by the manufacturer. (2001-369, s. 1; 2003-350, ss. 1, 2.)
basicly , all i understand is that i am not allowed to re-pin my own locks
or does it mean that i can pick locks , but not for money unless im liscensed?
kthxbai?
DiamondHead is a cool guy. eh picks locks and doesnt afraid of anything.

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DiamondHead.exe
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by Shrub » 11 Aug 2006 17:51
How to make a cutaway is a whole differant ballgame to how to cutaway a certain lock,
How to make a cutaway requires a lengthy explanation of engineering techniques but a rought generic guide is more than possable and maybe ill look into it for you,
As for how to cutaway a certain lock then as Illusion says you simply look at an existing one and if you cant find one ask if anyone has one or has any ideas, someone somewhere does have to scrap a lock or such like to make the first one and if no-one has done one that person will have to be you,
I will collect some pics from various sources and write a mini guide on how to go about it but as for specifc locks you will ave to gt the one you want to cutaway and simply ask after doing some reseach,
As for your law question, there is a dedicated thread on picking laws and i think it is better asked there if in fact it hasnt actually already been explained for your area,
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by DiamondHead.exe » 11 Aug 2006 18:03
Ill see if i can grab some extra padlocks from my house that are lying around.
But 1 tiny question
I have a masterlock 4?-ish
And it is/was advertised to be bullet-resistant
Will my Dremel's Tungsten Carbide Cutter work on this kind of "bullet-resistant" metal, or will i end up with a snapped of drill bit lodged into my chest or destroy the bit?
DiamondHead is a cool guy. eh picks locks and doesnt afraid of anything.

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by Shrub » 11 Aug 2006 18:08
Im not entirely sure what you are meaning by tungten carbide bit, if you mean a burr then no they are for plastic and should not be used on anything metal,
If you insist on useing dremels for cutaays (totally the wrong tool imho) you should be useing slitting discs and not the stone ones, the fibre ones usually in balck are the ones to get,
You will use a few doing a cutaway i should imagine,
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by p1ckf1sh » 11 Aug 2006 18:39
Dremel Tungsten Carbide tip...
...is that what you are talking about?
If it is, I can attest that it can indeed shred brass and even spring steel into tiny littls shreds. This thing is evil. The downside is just that it will do the same to your fingers if you slip.
You should be wearing a set of goggles all the time.
And for precision working that looks good when done that is NOT the right tip.
As said, cutting wheels would be a good bet. The fiver-reenforced ones are pretty good, although they have some properties that I dislike. Depending on the type of lock used you can cut down on the amount of wheels used by a process Shrub once explained to me as "chain drilling". If you need to make a wide slot somewhere you'd have to through lots of wheels to do it. The easier way is to take the majority of material by applying a bunch of drill holes in line with the slot, and then just take out the rest of the material with the dremel. Faster, better looking etc.
Whatever happened to the idea of the "Toolshed/Workbench" forum actually? When it came up a lot of people liked the idea of assimilating shop procedures and tool talk in a separate forum. (Yeah, I know, suggestions on the site, if you don't like it here go away, yadda yadda, I like that site mind you, but just suggesting an improvement does not mean I want to revamp the site to my personal tastes...)
Due to financial limitations the light at the end of tunnel has been turned off until further notice.
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by n2oah » 11 Aug 2006 19:28
Buy some files, a dremel with a pack of cutting disks, and a permanent marker. Mark where you want to cut with the marker, cut wth dremel, file off to perfection with files.
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by undeadspacehippie » 11 Aug 2006 21:59
I attempted a cutaway (abus 65/30 - is this a correct number??? - i had about a dozen at my last job that were cut off lockers ) - the carbide dremel bit chewed it up - it was a brass body, my first time using the bit and it was extremely fun even though I screwed the lock up..  ..
I am going to attempt a abloy clone cutaway to see how the things work... I had 3 of these keyed differently - hope to get good photos...
Diamond head - i would take N2oah's advice, dremel and files, goggles also, and mark out your territory before cutting... maybe even go to the manufactuer's website, see if you can get diagrams on the lock you are about to rip into.
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by DiamondHead.exe » 14 Aug 2006 14:25
Ok , so here I am drilling into the lock... finaly i think i hit the pin chambers and then bam! my grinding stone bit chews into a collumn of pins and springs and spits them (they were realy hot becuase of the grinding) from the lock into my chest. No marks or cuts. Thank g-d for goggles and! a facemask! and a glove!
I ruined my lock. But at least it only cost me 5 bucks and it gave me a little insight into where to cut next time.
I couldnt find my Tungsten bit so i was forced to sit there for 30 minutes with a grinding stone bit.
I'll see if i can get my hands on some cutting discs
Thanks for ya'lls help!
Hey , FYI i finaly got my 'rents to be okay with the whole lockpicking thing!
My mom even offered to drive me to a lockie to see if i can buy any locks pinned easy from him and maybe some cutaways or dissasembeled cylinders!
And i finaly made a homebrew that i love more than my SO and gives me great feedback!
It is 1/3 ~ the width of my SO and rapes the "First Watch" cylinders
For all your hacksaw haters ^_^
DiamondHead is a cool guy. eh picks locks and doesnt afraid of anything.

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DiamondHead.exe
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by n2oah » 14 Aug 2006 16:28
Does common sense not apply when making cutaways? Use your head and take the pins out of the lock before starting to cut.
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by undeadspacehippie » 14 Aug 2006 18:22
n2oah wrote:Does common sense not apply when making cutaways? Use your head and take the pins out of the lock before starting to cut.
What about when you are working on a solid body padlock or a lock with discs or wafers? - as always I am not trying to be an arse, just open to suggestions from those who are more experienced.... I am here to learn from others and to support others when I can.
(I also ask because I tried to drillout the little plugs on the end of a brass abus lock and it was ruined in the process - I was attempting something UWSDWF <sorry If I butchered your handle> did - grub/set screws as pin chamber caps - what is the correct term for where the pins reside?>
Any suggestions are appreciated.....

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by Shrub » 14 Aug 2006 18:27
Where the pins reside is called the chgamber or school,
All locks were made somehow so therefore they will all be able to split them back to bits the secret is to know how to do it,
If you look around site and maybe even if you click my sig picture you will find a guide made by IUllusion on puling a brass bodied padlock appart, if you look around somemore you will find some other nuggets of information,
Padlock that are better quality and tend to use the ball locking system often have a screw accesable underneath the shackle, unlock the lock and look down the shackle hole/s if you see a allen screw or such like your luck is in, unscrew the screw and the lock will come out, somtimes the key may have to be in and turned but not often,
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by DiamondHead.exe » 14 Aug 2006 19:17
hey n2oah
Thanks for bein' and ars about it bro
Solid Bodied Brass padlock
It was 4.59 +tax I'm not worried about it.
When did we teach our 14 year olds it was ok to be e-thugs?
-sigh-
I guess il start at square one with Illusions guide
Thanks all
DiamondHead is a cool guy. eh picks locks and doesnt afraid of anything.

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DiamondHead.exe
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by Shrub » 14 Aug 2006 19:25
DiamondHead.exe wrote: When did we teach our 14 year olds it was ok to be e-thugs? -sigh-
I dont understand this statement here? did i offend you?
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