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by JackNco » 15 Aug 2006 21:44
ok so this is a quick post about bump keys and the trouble some ppl seem to be having with them,
i got hold of a few yale 999 keys. after shaving down the shoulder and the end of the key i got a few working but a couple of the keys were not working, weather ide filed down the shoulder a bit much or what im not sure.
so i tryed filing down the leading edge or the ridge behind the cut for the pin, so that the pin would be rising up a steeper incline when it was bumped. basicaly making it jump faster. only slightly mind but i found this made the bump keys much easier to use.
i can image this is quite hard 2 image without pictures so ide be happy 2 respond to any questions?
Shrub: email requests are not allowed
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by Schuyler » 15 Aug 2006 22:34
Oi,
Shrub, that yellow on white is vicious on the eyes!
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by VashTSPD » 15 Aug 2006 22:56
I would post a funny reply, but my retinas are burned out so it's hard to see the submit button
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by mastermarc » 16 Aug 2006 15:19
I'm having trouble getting my bumpkeys to work and I just wanted to get a second opinion on the key i'm trying to use. I've tried various methods, and its a fairly new lock, but im having no luck. Heres the best i could do with getting a picture of it.
http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/11215704PQ/931863.jpg
And just for comparison purposes...heres the bump key sitting on the key that fits the lock. My worry is the middle notch which seems to be sitting right on one of the depth 7 pins. I didn't line it up perfectly, or i was shooting at an angle so disreguard the "mismatch" at the very tip, in actuality the first slant lines up perfectly with the real key's first slant.
http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/11215704PQ/931860.jpg
Edited by zeke79 to link to large pictures
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by Shrub » 16 Aug 2006 15:40
Well it looks to me that the spacing is all wrong even given your notes on the angle etc,
You may also like to remove a little more off the tip and a little less off the shoulder,
Run over the edge with a black maker pen,
Bump the lock a few times,
Remove the key and se if it has marked where the pins are hitting, this should give you a better idea of whats happening inside,
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by unbreakable » 16 Aug 2006 16:11
Shrub wrote:Well it looks to me that the spacing is all wrong even given your notes on the angle etc,
You may also like to remove a little more off the tip and a little less off the shoulder,
Run over the edge with a black maker pen,
Bump the lock a few times,
Remove the key and se if it has marked where the pins are hitting, this should give you a better idea of whats happening inside,
OOhhh, thats a good idea
Ive stayed away from bumping thus far, but maybe its time I start.....
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unbreakable
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by JackNco » 16 Aug 2006 16:48
Schuyler wrote:Oi,
Shrub, that yellow on white is vicious on the eyes!
ok im lost?
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JackNco
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by Shrub » 16 Aug 2006 16:52
Well i was given yellow as my mod colour which looked like this,
As it was hard to see and on some screens hurtful to look at it was changed to olive which looks like this,
I then came back here and changed the sentance i put on your post so the yellow wasnt there anymore 
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by mastermarc » 16 Aug 2006 17:49
advice on "removing less off the shoulder"
luckily i have an unmodified copy...time to try again i suppose. This key was actually copied from a schalge key which was cut by code....maybe thats my problem.
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by mastermarc » 16 Aug 2006 17:57
i cut the shoulder a bit and put some marker on it, but the marker doesn't come off...so i don't know what to make of it. Still no luck.
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by LockNewbie21 » 16 Aug 2006 18:41
I bought picks and had fun 
[deadlink]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h17/Locknewbie21/LockNewbie21Sig.jpg[/img]
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by Kaotik » 16 Aug 2006 19:20
I'm not sure which one is your key and the one your using for comparison is, but it looks like the spacing should work considering it is a Kwikset key, but the depths are different in the two comparisons.
The cut closest to the left of the shoulder of where pin one would hit seems to be different in the pic on the left, this could make a difference in the outcome of the bumping process aswell as the depths. Try refering to un uncut key with the deepest depth cutting and match/measure it to the key your filing, shave about a mm from the tip and a 1/2 a mm from the shoulder. I personally have had luck with bumping a Kwikset with removing approx. 2mm from the tip, as the tip seemed to press and jam aginst the back of the cylinder below the first ward from the bottom of the cylinder, and just a 1/2 to 1mm from the shoulder.
It mat seem odd this way to some, but considering the tolerences in a Kwikset, it still works well. I will post some pics in this thread for you if you would like to see.

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by Kaotik » 16 Aug 2006 19:24
I'm sorry for any confusion. Try an *unfiled key* for reference to the key you are filing for the deepest cuts and match, maybe even going a little deeper for a possible 10,10,10 cut.
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by mastermarc » 16 Aug 2006 19:53
10 10 10 would go right through the key....kwikset only has 7 depths, 1-7. So its really a 77777 key to be specific. Anything deeper goes through the guide slot.
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by ROLANDO RIVERA » 17 Aug 2006 11:06
mastermarc wrote:I'm having trouble getting my bumpkeys to work and I just wanted to get a second opinion on the key i'm trying to use. I've tried various methods, and its a fairly new lock, but im having no luck. Heres the best i could do with getting a picture of it. http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/11215704PQ/931863.jpgAnd just for comparison purposes...heres the bump key sitting on the key that fits the lock. My worry is the middle notch which seems to be sitting right on one of the depth 7 pins. I didn't line it up perfectly, or i was shooting at an angle so disreguard the "mismatch" at the very tip, in actuality the first slant lines up perfectly with the real key's first slant. http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/11215704PQ/931860.jpgLooks like the key shoulder is filed on one side only, maybe the unfiled shoulder side is keeping the key from going deeper. Edited by zeke79 to link to large pictures
Roland the repair man.
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