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Replacing an old 5 lever mortice for a new 5 lever Bs3621

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

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Replacing an old 5 lever mortice for a new 5 lever Bs3621

Postby mrdoorman » 23 Aug 2006 9:45

I have to replace an old 5 lever lock for a new BS3621, which i thought was going to be simple until i saw the size difference in the locks.
Even with the length of the faceplate on my Union BS3621, it is much smaller than the 1 I have taken out. Do i need to start again and cut a new hole or is there another lock or a way around it? I have searched through lock suppliers books but cannot find a lock with the same measurements.
The height of the faceplate on the old lock is 180mm and the height of the case is 120mm.
mrdoorman
 
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Postby taylorgdl » 23 Aug 2006 14:49

A photo of the old lock (to ID it) would help.

Are you saying the new lock is smaller than the old one? This is very unusual, normally the new BS3621 locks are bigger.

G.
It's all about the tension . . .
taylorgdl
 
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Re: Replacing an old 5 lever mortice for a new 5 lever Bs362

Postby bobc » 23 Aug 2006 16:15

mrdoorman wrote:I have to replace an old 5 lever lock for a new BS3621, which i thought was going to be simple until i saw the size difference in the locks.
Even with the length of the faceplate on my Union BS3621, it is much smaller than the 1 I have taken out. Do i need to start again and cut a new hole or is there another lock or a way around it? I have searched through lock suppliers books but cannot find a lock with the same measurements.
The height of the faceplate on the old lock is 180mm and the height of the case is 120mm.


Have you thought about replacing it with a euro case ? Quite a few of these cases are bigger than what you need and would obviously need handles replacing also so would be more expensive and if a good euro cylinder is installed you can still have decent security.
Failing that then making the opening smaller is the other option by wooden packers glued into the opening. The faceplate on the Union is only 3mm short of 180mm so you should be screwing into sound timber and the edges can be easily filled in.
Provided a professional job is done on the work you should be fine

bobc
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Postby jb68 » 23 Aug 2006 16:31

If you really can't get one of the right size, then splice in new timber to the old hole and recut the new mortice hole lower down.
The only problem with this is if it's a nice hardwood door it don't look too pretty. The other way is to piece in around the lock, but personaly unless you get that realy tight and well glued in I would worry about the integrity of the lock (i.e. could work loose)
jb68
 
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Location: Herts, England.

Postby jb68 » 23 Aug 2006 16:35

Sorry bobc, didn't see that bit at the bottom of your post :oops:
jb68
 
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Postby SAL » 23 Aug 2006 18:09

ca'nt think of anything, but you could try aldridges technical depertment they can be very helpful sometimes.
SAL
 
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Postby mrdoorman » 24 Aug 2006 5:05

I was gonna put a picture of the lock on here but it's not as straight forward to do that as I first thought by the look of it.
I have had a good look at the lock and I believe it to be an old Chubb 110, it has the same colouring and a small keyway. Thanks for all the advice. Is there a cheapest place to buy a new 110 or is £38 inc VAT about right?
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Postby Rockford » 24 Aug 2006 7:19

If it is a 110, then £32+vat is about right for a trade purchase. You can sometimes find them cheaper on ebay though. Are you sure it's a 110 - does it only have a bolt, or a latch (handles) also.
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