raking

[armedcanadian]

how many locks does raking actually even work on. its a good method but will you ever even use it on harder locks?

[DiamondHead.exe]

Just like bumping , I would assume that the more expensive/harde/tighte(tolerance-wise) would be more prone to raking to an extent?
I am speaking with no autority on the topic mind you , my assumptions are based only on what I learn from here, as I am new to the sport.

The tighter the tolerance in the pin chamber, the less force is wasted in side to side movement , and more force is directed upwards to separate the pins and drivers at the sheer line.

Can someone with more expertise please tell me if i have explained this correctly?

[!*AMP*!]

It varies by lock. Some really expensive locks are incredibly hard to rake, and then a different expensive lock will rake quite easily.

[mrdan]

It varies by lock. Some really expensive locks are incredibly hard to rake, and then a different expensive lock will rake quite easily.

I have had the same experience. Sometimes a brend new commercial grade lock rakes right open and some other don't . I guess it all depends on how it is pinned. Some locks have very close bitting depths (like 33432) so one could just about use a paper clip.

[VashTSPD]

I guess it depends the most on the bitting depth combination and the make of the lock. I have a couple black-rubbered Master No.3 locks that I can rake just by sticking a certain rake in the lock, and two other Master No.3 locks that I couldn't rake for the life of me.

[Ray_Air]

I have raked 6-pin Russwin Corbin's,BEST and Kwikset Titan's. I prefer raking over picking. You learn to feel whats happening with a rake almost like picking. You'd be suprised how many locks can open faster using a raking technique than standard picking. I tried raking my household Schlage locks, but failed everytime. I dont know what model they are, but they were the top of the line Schlage at Lowe's. The Schlage's with "grade 1 features".

[linty]

the guys who pick locks in competitions seem to do nothing but rake, if that says anything.

[Bud Wiser]

raking is definitely easier on cheaper locks, but the pros use raking with great success on difficult high end security locks too!

Take a recent Dutch Open contest, Arthurmeister opened the Lips 8362C in a amazing 20 seconds using a rake.
http://www.wired.com/wired/archive/13.0 ... topic_set=

Obviously raking requires equal amount of skill and luck

In my own practice I find raking helps me set one, two or more pins at a time on more difficult locks, then I finish manually by picking.

[Shrub]

I use a rake first as a rocker pick on the job, its amazing just howm many locks open very quickly with the method,

I went to a job yesterday and inserted the rake and lifted up to see the plug turn, the rake must have been very very close to the actual biting of the key,

The customer says that was quick and i say i practice a lot ill go get my invoice book lol

[raimundo]

take the core out of a cylinder, leave the pins in the core, then insert the rake, tilt it, lift it, watch the pins, look to see if you can find a sweet spot where the rake has simultaneouly held 3 or more pins at the shear line, this will help you visualize some of the moves that might help you in using the rake.

[pinsetter]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread is the different tensioning techniques that can be used for a successful raking. I'm a firm believer that a person must become proficient with both picks and tensioning techniques to be successful. Raking requires a different tensioning method than SPP most of the time. I actually use three different tensioning techniques depending on the lock and what's working or not. I'll use steady tension for SPP most of the time with an occasional bounce here and there if I need to drop some pins. With raking I usually use a bouncing method with light tension pressure. Then sometimes I do what I call "fluttering", which is a VERY rapid bouncing in which I never let ALL the tension off of the cylinder.

Honestly learning the proper technique with the pick is only half the battle. You can have the best pick technique known to man, but if you don't know how to control tension and apply different tensioning techniques you'll never perform to your true potential.

[Bud Wiser]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread is the different tensioning techniques that can be used for a successful raking. I'm a firm believer that a person must become proficient with both picks and tensioning techniques to be successful. Raking requires a different tensioning method than SPP most of the time. I actually use three different tensioning techniques depending on the lock and what's working or not. I'll use steady tension for SPP most of the time with an occasional bounce here and there if I need to drop some pins. With raking I usually use a bouncing method with light tension pressure. Then sometimes I do what I call "fluttering", which is a VERY rapid bouncing in which I never let ALL the tension off of the cylinder.

Honestly learning the proper technique with the pick is only half the battle. You can have the best pick technique known to man, but if you don't know how to control tension and apply different tensioning techniques you'll never perform to your true potential.

If I could give you credit I would! Some forums permit a way for a poster to give another poster credit!

Any way well said! Even though I'm still a noob here, I understand the importance of tension. I apply various techiques to tension just like you pointed out, and I even use different tension wrenches too. It's amazing how a difficult lock can become much easier with a different tension wrench.

I'm also seeing that on some locks it's not so easy to feel each pin as you push it, so pushing each pin is less effective. But tapping each pin and tapping the tension often does the trick! The same tension techniques help with raking.

I forgot where I read it, but some one, some where said, "there are no rules in picking locks, only basic guidelines, do/use whatever works"

Once you learn the basics, it becomes so much more fun!

[pinsetter]

Yes, since you brought up tension wrenches, that is another thing. I've had more than one picking attempt fail because the tension wrench bound on the cylinder wall. I've made nearly as many tension wrenches as I have picks. Right now I have 17 tension wrenches, but admittedly I've been doing a lot of experimenting with different designs. I especailly like the latest style I'm making in which the tensioner blade is somewhat L shaped to fit the bottom wards of the keyway. I've made those with both left and right bends and they fit a wide array of keyways. The best thing about them is that with the right angle of bend they will not bind and they keep the keyway mostly open.

And remember, a good way to test and see if your tension wrench is binding on the cylinder wall is to let up all tension after a picking attempt and see if you can hear the pins release that have been lifted . If you hear nothing, then put negative pressure on the wrench, feel it "release", and then hear the pins drop it means that the wrench was in a bind and will have to be modified to be effective on that particular lock.

[TAMUmpower]

I went years using nothing but a hook. Currently however, I use a combination of raking and hooking. Its faster for me to set a few of the pins by raking and then getting the harder cut ones with a hook.

Your picking preferance will change over the years as your technique develops.

[Schuyler]

And remember, a good way to test and see if your tension wrench is binding on the cylinder wall is to let up all tension after a picking attempt and see if you can hear the pins release that have been lifted . If you hear nothing, then put negative pressure on the wrench, feel it "release", and then hear the pins drop it means that the wrench was in a bind and will have to be modified to be effective on that particular lock.

I had no idea. Thank you for that!