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by globallockytoo » 27 Aug 2006 2:57
I'm no expert on bumping however, you might start by filing back the top shoulder ....about .015" (fifteen thousandths of an inch) at least.
I presume you are either in Australia or NZ, by your selected keys.
The ends of each key (the tip) need to be filed back (toward the head) to allow for play in the rear of each barrel...
Then practise, practise, practise....
Good luck!
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by prim0pyr0 » 27 Aug 2006 3:26
Thank you for your reply  .
I purchased the set of five from ebay, and had a set of copys made at bunnings in New Zealand. here is another picture with different parts
highlighted: http://img176.imageshack.us/my.php?image=123b2lq8.jpg
When you say shoulder, do you mean the part i've circled in green or does it include the part i've lined red(next to green circle).
In the above picture, is the "bitting" or tooth outlined in pink too big? should it be the same size/hight as the other "teeth"?
I've already filed the tips and shoulders alittle, but I'm trying to be conservative 0.5 of a mm isn't very much. Is it possible to take too much off the shoulder? I asume it can only go in so far before the tip stops it anyway.
I'll go practise more now.
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by globallockytoo » 27 Aug 2006 3:57
Green circle....
make sure bottom shoulder is also filed back too
have you made your depths deeper than 9?
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by Krypos » 27 Aug 2006 3:59
how did you hear about bumping? about LP101?
ever try picking a lock before? its better than bumping.
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by prim0pyr0 » 27 Aug 2006 4:53
Not sure if they're cut deeper than "9", they're copys of keys i purchased from ebay. Bunnings may have done something crazy as two of the keys copied are the from same type of blank, compared to the 5 different types we got from ebay which are all different.
Can't remember how I found LP101, had a login maybe exo or primopyro; but couldn't retrive the password to post today.
I've read alot of stuff on here about lock picking, and have made some picks with wich i managed to lock my house door shut and couldn't get the key into unlock it (until i found the pins at the top had caught). I've also made a coathanger snapper which is pretty cool. There are alot of interesting threads to read in here.
Having picks and snappers on your person is illegal in New Zealand, bumpkeys are pretty hard to spot if they're on a ring with other normal keys. I'm not going to use them to break in anywhere, just got them as a gadget to play with after seeing some videos of them.
Just to clarify; the end bit which has a pink arrow pointing towards it, should it be made smaller to match the same hight as the other cuts, or left as it?
Thank you.
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by bonez » 27 Aug 2006 5:04
prim0pyr0 wrote: Having picks and snappers on your person is illegal in New Zealand, bumpkeys are pretty hard to spot if they're on a ring with other normal keys. I'm not going to use them to break in anywhere, just got them as a gadget to play with after seeing some videos of them.
just a quick note mate,be careful playing with these!
don't try it on any locks you don't own,bump keys can get stuck in locks
and they wear the pins very quickly so the original key won't work.

don't eat yellow snow -a quote by illusion.
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by Bud Wiser » 27 Aug 2006 21:55
I think they are just 999 keys. Some people pass off 999 keys on ebay as bump keys. If they are 999 keys it shouldn't be too hard to make them bump keys as most of the work is done already.
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by prim0pyr0 » 28 Aug 2006 2:13
Thanks for the tips  . I won't be trying it on anyone elses locks, or any importaint ones I own(anymorelol).
Bud Wiser: I did get these from ebay "These are regular Space and Depth Keys cut to the deepest Factory depth." So It's likely that they are only cut to the so-called "9"depth.
After reading other threads on here, i've seen that they work better if they're cut to "10" or "9.5". Does that require making the valleys deaper, or the bitting lower aswell?
I've also read you can bump keys with any hight bitting aslong as the valleys are deep enough, but the key could get stuck in the lock after bumping. Obviously the bitting has to be high enough to contact the pins in order to bump. How many mm's should i deepen the valleys(if any) to make these keys work?
Is that last bit/tooth which is higher than the rest a standard hight, which all locks have their pins set to, or does it need to be filed down aswell?
Thank you again for your replys.
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by Bud Wiser » 28 Aug 2006 2:44
prim0pyr0 wrote:Thanks for the tips  . I won't be trying it on anyone elses locks, or any importaint ones I own(anymorelol). Bud Wiser: I did get these from ebay "These are regular Space and Depth Keys cut to the deepest Factory depth." So It's likely that they are only cut to the so-called "9"depth. After reading other threads on here, i've seen that they work better if they're cut to "10" or "9.5". Does that require making the valleys deaper, or the bitting lower aswell? I've also read you can bump keys with any hight bitting aslong as the valleys are deep enough, but the key could get stuck in the lock after bumping. Obviously the bitting has to be high enough to contact the pins in order to bump. How many mm's should i deepen the valleys(if any) to make these keys work? Is that last bit/tooth which is higher than the rest a standard hight, which all locks have their pins set to, or does it need to be filed down aswell? Thank you again for your replys.
I'm not a bump key expert but have played with them a little. I've made a couple from old keys, and from 999 keys. The easiest way to do it is from a 999 key. What I did was take off about .010 off the shoulder and also a little off the the tip. Some worked, some didn't.
There are a lot of threads about this with some different opinions on how to make them. Some folks do not take any off the tip. I've also read some do not take down the first bite.
I purchased a set of bump keys from Peterson and lockpicks.com just to see how theirs looked. Both of these sets did not remove any off the tip, only the shoulder, and all the bites were down to 9.
I think even after reading every thing about bump keys you'll have to experiment and see what works for you. I wouldn't mess with your set you bought, treat them as master copies and just go have some copies made at your local hardware store to practice on. No need to tell them what they are just let them copy them like any other key. In other words don't tell them what your trying to do.
It is kind of fun playing with bump keys, but I found the force is important too. I had a working bump key but it took a little practice to hit it just right. I used a screw driver handle before I got a bump hammer. I read some where you can even use the heal of your shoe too. Now wouldn't that ook professional 

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by raimundo » 28 Aug 2006 8:38
mark the tip to tip spacing on a paper, then cut the tip at an angle to match the peak to peak, I have used bump keys with the high tip, but when they dont work, as every bump key will some times, I have cut this back. this could be due to a long pin at the tip position..
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