Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by !*AMP*! » 9 Jul 2006 13:18
I recently bought a padlock manufactured by Brinks Security, it's six pinned, and all the pins are serrated, I have had trouble picking it to say the least, LOL.
But anyway, since the pins are serrated, should I push the pin up until i hear/feel it beginning to seat, and then push a little more, as it's probably binding on the serrated part of the pin? Also, is this even a practical lock to practice on? Thanks... 
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!*AMP*!
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by Octillion » 9 Jul 2006 13:42
Push up on a pin, and let it click past all the serrations until it hits the sheer line. It is usually easier to push a pin up from a serration than to over lift from the sheer line, and they have different feels. You should be able to feel when you are pushing the driver out of a serration, and when you are about to over lift a pin. If you over lift a pin, reduce torque until it falls back down. If you hit a spool, pick it in the usual manner, then go back and pop back up any serrated drivers.
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Octillion
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by !*AMP*! » 9 Jul 2006 21:15
LOL, yep that's the lock...was really surprised to find such a quality product at Walmart...I've gotten to seating five of the six pins, but still have been unable to open it. Thanks for the suggestions and I'll keep at it.
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!*AMP*!
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by Kaotik » 9 Jul 2006 22:37
I was just at Wal-Mart the other day looking at the same locks, if i'm not mistaken it was the brinks that had the key behind the lock in it's package and, it had plastic tubes covering the cuts.
I was tempted to get one but, I wanted to make sure it had a good high-low variations in the cuts.
Was this the same scenario for yours?
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Kaotik
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by raimundo » 10 Jul 2006 8:38
light machine oil (3in1 brand) and a light touch will open this lock, put the key in and feel how it turns, while the keyway is the same as an american brand padlock, there is no heavy return spring on the back of the plug fighting against the tension, so once you start getting this lock open, it will become easy, then keep doing it for a while, even after you think its easy. one of the more critical points on picking it is to find a tensor that will not bind against the cylinder wall, you may want to sand the edge of your tensor and remember if the tensor is not actually loose, its binding. if you take tension off, the tensor should just fall out of the lock, if it dosent, its a problem, and you may have to look for a different tensor.
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raimundo
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by !*AMP*! » 3 Sep 2006 18:14
Just got this bad boy open! Oh yeah! After practicing on a Masterlock 532 to learn security pins, I managed to open my Brinks Shrouded padlock. I think it's a great milestone. I still got a long way to go though. Now I'm working on being consistent on it. BTW, it was through SPP not raking.
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!*AMP*!
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by Ray_Air » 3 Sep 2006 23:51
Congrats on cracking the Brink's shrouded. I put about 30 minutes into my Brinks shrouded and failed to open it. I mastered my 532,but the Brink's is giving me grief.
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Ray_Air
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by !*AMP*! » 4 Sep 2006 9:20
I'm having a hard time being consistent, but oiling, or WD-40 helps out a lot. The tolerances on this lock are very low, so parts tend to stick and grind. The lube really helps out. Good luck!
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!*AMP*!
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