Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by radagast » 7 Aug 2006 22:04
Hi,
I am pretty new to lock picking. I can pick any Master Lock that I have tried, but apparantly that's not much of an accomplishment. I have a lock that I want to pick. It is an American Lock Co 5260. I can't get it open. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of this lock or one of the same series? What is the best pick/technique to use? I read that American uses "mushroom and spool pins" in some of their padlocks. Could this be why it seems so hard for me to pick this one? Or do I just need to keep trying?
Also, after researching this lock, it seems that it does NOT have a double steel ball locking mechanism like the 3000 series does. Can anyone verify that this is correct? Could I use a shim? (It is currently locked and I don't have the key, so I can't tell.)
Can I use the AM700 opening tool? An advertisement for it says it will work with the "5100 & also all American Non-Key Retaining Padlocks. (Does not work on new stylelocks with shields installed)"
Does the 5260 have a shield to prevent this tool from being used?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Regards,
Radagast
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by Shrub » 7 Aug 2006 22:06
Press the shackle down, if its springy then its not balls 
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by Squelchtone » 7 Aug 2006 22:36
If you're learning how to pick, and you're moving up from a cheap padlock, I'd recommend a Brinks R70, a master brass 140, or maybe a Master 532 if you're really brave.
American padlocks have more security pins than they probably should, and unless your pick-fu is really good, you're just going to get frustrated trying to open such a well made lock.
Trying out shims on a master combination lock, or buying a 700 bypass tool is something cool to see done in person, but if you are interested in learning picking, use picks not bypass tools. Only other reason to get a bypass tool is if you are a locksmith or up to no good.
As for the tool working in your lock, I don't know, but even if it has that back stop in the back of the lock, that can be punched out with another tool. Peterson sells a kit, one tool to make hole, then the bypass tool to open lock.
This photo will give you a pretty good view of why you're having a hard time picking that lock:
http://nynex.s5.com/cgi-bin/i/lp101/american_series50_breakdown/14_thats_insane.JPG
good luck!
Squelchtone

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by Shrub » 8 Aug 2006 10:00
 I heard his intake of breath from here,
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by pinsetter » 8 Aug 2006 12:45
There is a post somewhere titled "Medeco can take the wind out of your sails".
Well, so can an American padlock unless you're a really good picker.
I think you have more work to do on some locks of lesser quality before tackling an American.
Just one more thing to note though. American padlocks have A LOT of spring tension against the plug. Sometimes you have them picked and do not realize it because it takes so much force to turn the plug. Keep a small slotted screwdriver handy to apply more tension when you think you have it picked and try that before you release the plug to start over on another picking attempt. My American 1105 will bend my normal tension wrench if I don't have a little extra help to go along with it.
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by Squelchtone » 19 Sep 2006 1:13
pinsetter wrote:There is a post somewhere titled "Medeco can take the wind out of your sails".
Well, so can an American padlock unless you're a really good picker.
I think you have more work to do on some locks of lesser quality before tackling an American.
Just one more thing to note though. American padlocks have A LOT of spring tension against the plug. Sometimes you have them picked and do not realize it because it takes so much force to turn the plug. Keep a small slotted screwdriver handy to apply more tension when you think you have it picked and try that before you release the plug to start over on another picking attempt. My American 1105 will bend my normal tension wrench if I don't have a little extra help to go along with it.
I'm working on an 1105 right now and it's not cooperating. What pick do you recommend using and spp or raking or a mix? And does it need Brinks R70 type tension before I start picking, or do I use light tension to pick, but then you need lots of force to turn cylinder? I'm afraid I'm not getting great feedback, and as it has been discussed elsewhere, the tension wrench keeps camming out do to the shape of the warding.
thanks for any tips on this lock.

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by Hardliner » 19 Sep 2006 22:05
It took me awhile to get my American 5200.. Still not 100% consistent, but for me what works is a Peterson hook with single pin picking, along with becoming attuned to the distinct feel that this lock has (it's my only one with serrated pins so that's probably it). I've noticed that when I pick it "right" it opens quickly and easily, and I don't even need to do the technique with letting the tension off before setting the spool(s).
When I pick it wrong (i.e with too much tension, incorrect pin order, etc) I get the typical over-rotation of the plug when I hit a spool and once I've felt that I just reset the cylinder and start again. There seems to be no counter tension so if I jam a spool, letting the tension off does not cause the cylinder to turn back so I can push the spool up. It just stays there and I'm stuck (on my particular example anyway). Maybe one of those nifty Falle tension tools would help in this case.
Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who do not.
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by What » 19 Sep 2006 22:44
Shrub wrote:if its springy then its not balls 
ohh the things we could do with this out of context....

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by cL4y » 20 Sep 2006 4:12
What wrote:Shrub wrote:if its springy then its not balls 
ohh the things we could do with this out of context.... 
im WAAAAYYYY ahead of ya. 
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by pinsetter » 20 Sep 2006 12:58
The American locks require very light tension to actually pick the cylinder, but then a very heavy tension to finish opening the lock after you've picked it. Sometimes you'll have them picked and not realize it since the spring on the locking mechanism is so stiff.
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