The new Chubb deadlock with the 20mm deadbolt.

[pcbear]

Why do they make the striking plate hole nearly exactly the same size as the bolt, as they are mostly fitted to wooden doors any little bit of movement in the door and there are problems, i had a mare with one today, it took forever to get it right, if there was a 1.5 mm tolerance all around that would be the problem solved, you would have a nightlatch also keeping the door snug to the stop so it would not rattle, sort it out Chubb.

[nhughz]

Get yourself a bolt depth gauge or make one, this will help you fit the keep quicker.

[Bump]

Even with a bolt depth its tricky, It so depends on the door being flush with the frame and not twisted. I measure and re-measure using a mortice scribe and take my datum from the outer edge of the door not the inner, even then I often have to move the fitting a mm to capture the bolt/sash.

Its better to have to move the striker plate backwards rather than forwards so as to avoid leaving a gap in the woodwork. I cringe when I see striker plates with a profiled design, you just know that youre going to have to fiddle about getiing the line-up just right; its like Xmas when they go straight in.

[pcbear]

Both fair replies, but what is the point in having near zero tolerance? the Era bolt is 13mm x 34mm, the keep 16mm x 40mm clear hole for the bolt to locate
Even if you walk away leaving the chubb locating perfectly, any movement in the door or frame means a call to go and fix it, time = money, imo its crazy to have it so tight.
Maybe i got a moody one, i fitted a 2 1/2 inch one today and it sailed in, clearance all round, the one that gave me grief was a 3 inch, poss with the keep of and old chubb, pre bolt increase?

[horsefeathers]

Bolt depth guage? Mortice scribe?

I use the old lady's lipstick.

regards

[Bump]

I've wondered if some sort of sticky/transfer method might work.

Lipstick would seem the right sort of transfer medium, a few quick turns of the bolt against the door jam and "Hey Presto!" a valid mark.

Trouble is that bolt faces aren't square and you would need to be sure that you got a representative impression. Worth a try though!

[Shrub]

I do the same thing but not with lip stick, you could use carbon paper or a wet marker, pencil lead or chalk and more,

As your goign to cut it anyway i find the bolt marks the frame anyway if its painted and the door moved slightly,

[horsefeathers]

Oh I have loads of lipstick on me at all times.....scarlett for those dark wood frames, then perhaps a peach for white ones, maybe a purple for pine ones......


Also helps create a laugh with the female customers when i tell them...

regards

[haribo]

I only use lipstick at the weekends but thats a different story! I got myself a souber bolt depth gauge great little addition to your toolbox even though a bit over priced.

[paul1982]

I find the bolt depth gauge a handy little tool also. I went to a customer who had two 3" ERA Profits fitted to the bottom corners of an aluminium garage door. He said over he last few months the locks had got harder to lock. A quick measure with the gauge showed it each one was a fraction out. First thought was wooden frame with the keeps had swelled but the actual door had shifted. More than likely from being slammed and daily use. Small adjustments and help from guage problem solvedin minutes

[Bump]

Tried the lipstick trick last night. Sort of works but as I thought, if the bolt face isnt square you get a very iffy mark. Its also V messy, think I'll stick to the depth guage.

[toomush2drink]

Doesnt anyone just use a tape measure ? Its a lot more accurate i think and its how i always fit them.As long as you make sure the door is flush when shut or measure how far out it is and adjust your measurements you cant go wrong.
Also some keeps have a lip which can be filed if the door has moved to give a bit of extra movement, a dremmel is great for this.

[Mark A]

Ditto.

Mark

[UNFORGIVEN]

i rearly use a tape measure now days only when im hanging a door and putting on some fittings i normaly transfer marks from frame to door and use a combonation square or set square as some call it
but beeing a carpenter it all comes with exsperience and im always trying to find quick and easy time saveing ways of doing things

[jb68]

Mortice Guage, Measuring Tape, Soft Lead Pencil, Combi Square. Any and all at some stage. All work for me.
Lip stick.. I like the idea but haven't tried it.

Does any one else use a mortice guage to mark the face plate on the edge of the door? Gives a nice straight, tight finnish to the plate.