Okay Hmm...

[Identity]

I've looked around and I'm not sure I have really seen this answered or asked, but maybe I missed it >_<. I'm not to sure about how much pressure to put on the tension wrench, I am using an allen wrench right now until my stuff gets here. I know you can't give an exact description of how hard to push, it's like a brake in a car, you have to learn it yourself basically.

Let me describe my 'problem':

I bought a Kwikset lock and took it apart and accidently popped all the springs and pins out without looking, so I had to line them up with the key and find the line and such. I've actually learned a decent amount about a 5 pin tumbler from it. But okay here is my problem, I've been doing what Digital Blue's tutorial said and doing it pin by pin. Sometimes I can get it to work sometimes I can't. I moved up to two pins and had some troubles so I decided to move back down to 1 pin. After moving back to 1 pin, I put pressure on the tension wrench and push the pin up and the wrench won't budge, and when I let pressure off and basically let go, I can hear the pin click back into place, so what is the deal? Do I have to put a little bit of pressure then put more pressure after it goes in place or what? And should the lower of the 2 pins be basically "locked" or stuck or should it fall back and be loose?

By the way, I signed up and read stuff a while back and got the e-mail so I came back and this is my first 'real' post ^_^

[Shrub]

Please tell me you havent been trying for 3 years lol

I think what your problem is that you just havent got the feel yet, you need to be very gentle when letting off tension,

To give you a quick rough gauge of the amount of tension you need either go grab a 5 pin lock or repin yours to 5 again,

Now put tension on and start lifting the pins, you are not attempting to pick it so it doesnt matter the order etc,

Now the correct tension will be when all but 1 of the pins are loose in the lock,

Take this tension force over to your 2 pin lock now,

Useing 1 pin in a lock is a waste of time, you only need to gently lift it up slowly until the lock turns and you will get nothign from it, the whole useing less pins thing is mostly to get you used to which pin is binding and which to set first,


If your having further issues then its time to look where in the lock you have your wrench, is it resting on the side of the lock so when you turn it the wrench is actually rubbing on the lock body? thats a common problem and will stop you picking effectively,

If you click my www button you may learn somthing that your doing wrong or somthing youve missed,

[Identity]

Haha no I haven't been trying for 3 years, that would be really horrible if so. I was actually like 15-16 when I signed up so I didn't have a credit card or anything to really get picks and no access to making tools like I do now. That guide actually helped out a good amount, a decent amount I already knew but some of it I suspected is what I was doing.

Even though it's only one pin, I might be oversetting the pin....Actually I just realized it, that sometimes the key pin won't drop down...So yeah that's partially my problem. Also, like I said, I'm using an allen wrench and I either put it in a little bit or like jam it all the way in, in the back, would this stop it from turning at all?

Thanks ^_^

[Kaotik]

I have noticed times before when I was first learning that it only takes the light pressure of a relaxed finger on the tensor and varies with more or less weight for different locks and different pins.

The bottom shape of the key is shaped like so ______/, and if you are inserting the tensor fully into the back of the lock the spape of the tensor is shaped like this _____|, so if there is a spot for the sharp angle to grab on to the inside of the cylinder it prolly will.

Long story short, it is not necessary to insert the tensor fully into the lock, sharp edges on the tensor can/will create problem while applying turning pressure, as the edges of the harder metal of the tensor can grab or dig into the softer metals inside the cylinder and housing and restrict the rotation.

[charlied]

I would believe that an Allen wrench would be just too stiff.
At least I would believe so.

A tension wrench has some give and will bend.

A great idea that I picked up from this site is using the stainless steel flat support rods that are being used in todays windshield wipers. A great idea.

I guess it could be done but an Allen wrench just doesn't have ANY give to it.

[d_goldsmith]

I'm pretty new, but from what I have read and experienced, you don't want your tension wrench to have any give to it. That way you can feel everything better.

[digital_blue]

I'd say there's pros and cons. Flex in a wrench softens the tension a bit, which can be a good thing. But it dulls feedback a bit, which can be a bad thing. Overall, it's a matter of preference, but neither is "right".

db

[charlied]

I guess everyone that makes them is wrong then.

[charlied]

I thought ALL tension tools were flexible.

[digital_blue]

'Fraid you thought wrong.

[d_goldsmith]

My allen wrench works great.

[charlied]

I sit/stand corrected.

[digital_blue]

In the interest of being a bit more helpful, let me give an example. Take an "L" wrench (standard wrench in just about any pick set).

These typically come as a standard L, and in the twist-flex variety. The standard L wrench does not offer much flex at all. The twist-flex obviously does. I tend to use a twist flex for no other reason that it is more comfortable on the finger (or thumb) whilst picking. However, I do find I get better feedback from the standard wrench. But the differences are subtle at best.

Then again, everything in picking is subtle at best.

Cheers,

db

[Identity]

Wow....I got my tools in the mail today and holy crap...No one ever told me it would be THIS EASY...My pick before was really just crappy and everything and now that I actually have some good tools, it's fairly easy to pick a tumbler ^_^