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BEST brand lock - bumping and picking issues

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

BEST brand lock - bumping and picking issues

Postby tsharky87 » 16 Nov 2006 17:22

Hey. I'm trying to get through a BEST brand lock (with an interchangeable core), but its giving me a lot of trouble. I made myself a bump key which looks pretty good to me and should work based on what I've read. Here is a picture of my bump key:


Image


Now I believe there are two (or more!) different ways to bump a lock. One involves just using the standard 999 key and pulling the key out one "click". The other method (called "minimal-movement" method?) involves shaving off a tiny bit of the tip and shoulder so there's a small amount of space for the key to go further into the lock. I tried the former method and I just don't think its really possible (especially because I know for a fact that one of the pins needs to be at the 9 mark). So I proceeded to shave of the tip and shoulder a little. Here's my problem: I can't seem to get the key to go any further into the lock than its supposed to at all. I think that maybe its an abnormal shoulder and I'd need to shave off the sides of the key too, perhaps (though I wouldn't know how to do that). Anyway, I would love some help with this dilemma.

Also, I tried picking this lock as well. Although I am kind of new to lockpicking, I consider myself pretty decent at it. I can pick a wide variety of pin tumbler locks, especially padlocks. With this lock I am actually able to get the pins lined up so that the plug moves, but it only goes like 170 degrees around and I can't make it actually unlock the door. I don't know why and I couldn't figure anything out by researching.
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Postby linty » 16 Nov 2006 19:45

best keys are tip stopped, and i believe the stop is at the bottom of the warding, try filing a square notch out on the bottom half of the end of the key.
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Postby unbreakable » 16 Nov 2006 20:44

What do you mean you are trying to "get through" a BEST lock?

Best locks are very difficult to pick, because they have 2 shear lines. I have only heard of 1 case of someone successfully bumping one. I would sudgest getting an easier practice lock.

And seeing as this is your first post, welcome to the forum!
Image
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Postby tsharky87 » 16 Nov 2006 23:52

best keys are tip stopped, and i believe the stop is at the bottom of the warding, try filing a square notch out on the bottom half of the end of the key.

Well, I tried doing this and I took off a good millimeter or so of the bottom half of the tip and it really didn't do anything. Its still completely stopped at the same place on the key.
What do you mean you are trying to "get through" a BEST lock?

Oh I just mean I'm trying to open it for practice by bumping and/or picking.
Best locks are very difficult to pick, because they have 2 shear lines. I have only heard of 1 case of someone successfully bumping one.

I knew they have two shear lines, but I kinda thought that by being able to get the plug to turn I successfully picked to the correct shear line. Is this incorrect? If not, I can't see why it won't open the lock. Also, do you happen to remember who this was who successfully bumped it? Is he/she a member of this site? Thanks a lot!
And seeing as this is your first post, welcome to the forum!

Thank you very much for your warm welcome and I am happy to be here. I really love this web site. :D
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Postby Octillion » 17 Nov 2006 0:32

Best SFIC's can be bumped, I have bumped a number of them myself, and heard of others who have too. I don't practice bumping very often, but the technique is carried out no differently than bumping any other lock. Depending on the pinning of the lock it may be very difficult to bump, but this goes for all locks.
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Postby tsharky87 » 17 Nov 2006 4:40

Hey I figured out that the only thing I needed to do to open the lock after picking it is use more tension. I couldn't even get enough tension out of my wrench (cause I could tell it would break) so I thought of what I think to be an ingenius idea: I put in an extra tension wrench to help it along and it opened. Picking it isn't really all that hard. I found the long pick that looks kinda like a messed up saw blade (a kind of rake, maybe? I raked it mostly) worked the best.
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Postby linty » 18 Nov 2006 7:48

well if it works, i can't say you're wrong, but that sounds like you're applying way too much tension if you're worrying about breaking your tension tool.
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Postby tsharky87 » 18 Nov 2006 16:53

linty wrote:well if it works, i can't say you're wrong, but that sounds like you're applying way too much tension if you're worrying about breaking your tension tool.

No, no. I mean after I line up all the pins and get the plug to turn it takes a lot of tension to actually disengage the lock, thats all. I'm still interested in getting the bumping to work though. I definitely shaved off plenty of the bottom of the tip, but it still won't go in the lock more than its designed to. It confuses me.
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Postby I Pik U » 18 Nov 2006 18:58

The tip of your key looks too blunt, and I'm surprised if it enters the lock smoothly. I'd try filing a little more slope to it.
Image
Been playing with locks since '68.
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Postby ldnlksmth » 19 Nov 2006 14:38

if it turns 170 degrees and then stops, and you can get it to turn with extra tension, it's not the cylinders fault, it's the lock's alignment with the door, it's probably either really tight or really loose and you're pushing on it. If that's the problem, get it as far as you can, start 'bumping' the door by pushing on it near the latch side and continue turning.
keys, we don't need no stinking keys!
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try this

Postby raimundo » 20 Nov 2006 12:46

Pick the lock then press the shackle in just a bit to relieve the back pressure on the plug and it may turn easily with the tensor, tensors come in different strengths, and some are quite light. especially the tensor that is made for gripping the holes at the bottom of a best cylinder to turn the control sleeve. Hope this helps.
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Postby keysman » 20 Nov 2006 14:55

The spacing is off on that key.. Best IC locks are very picky about correct spacing and depths..

I have never tried the " minimal movement method " but I have very good luck with the pull back method , + liberal doses of WD40 ( yes, I know of its EVIL reputation). I get the control sheer line first about 50 % of the time.

Your mileage may vary
Everyone who eats potatoes eventually dies. Therefore potatoes are poisonous.
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Best

Postby lechacal » 20 Nov 2006 18:37

These locks are called best but unfortunatly they are not. There are several ways to open the lock after the initial 170 degree rotation. One way is to hold the strait side of the pick against the pins to keep them from falling into the cylinder. Then rotate the lock with a screwdriver as apposed to the tension tool, since it will break.
When it comes to bumping a best lock It is necessary to apply minimal force to the handle this works for me. regarding your question, what you need to do is make more decline on the nose of your bump key. I will try to send a picture of my bump key for you.
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Postby 2octops » 21 Nov 2006 0:40

Just a hint. These keys use a tip stop but it's not actually the tip. It's the little notch on the bottom of the key. If you bump it too hard, you will knock the end cap loose from the end of the cylinder.

This will make the correct key go to far into the cyinder and not open. If you were lucky enough to knock it completely off, then if you are able to get the key to work, then you would be able to pull the plug out of the housing (they are not designed to come apart like that).

By the way, if you are having trouble picking these, there is a good reason for it. They have smaller diameter pins than most normal locks, usually have 6 or 7 chambers or pin stacks and have a much closer tollerancebetween the plug and shell than normal pin cylinders.

Many locksmiths can not pick these locks and simply drill them out.
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