When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by Kaotik » 18 Nov 2006 22:10
J.D. wrote:Could experiment with quenching in oil or transmission fluid and also different methods of drawing (tempering).
Yes, quenching in oils differ from quenching in water. Water can catch the carbon molecules and retain them to the surface of the metal (hince, why you see metal folders and swordsmiths frequently brush the carbon off), where as some oils do not.
It also depends on what metal stock it is your working with, and what metals are combined to make that stock. It never hurts to experiment with what you have though.
Also try quenching your metal in different temperatures of water and oils, that will make a difference aswell.
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by Romstar » 18 Nov 2006 22:15
SAL wrote:i havea wendit electro pick gun ,and want to make some new blade picks can anyone suggest a good material?
D2 tool steel, 440C stainless......
If you just want something quick, find an industrial supplier and grab a box of Starrett 0.020 inch feeler gauges. These are 12 inch long, half inch wide strips of steel.
Be sure to grind in short bursts, quenching between each grind. This will ensure that you do not ruin the temper already in the steel.
If you do overheat the thing, you will have to temper it again, and this is a process in itself.
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by BazookaMedic » 3 Dec 2006 14:43
What about W-1 Tool steel romstar?
"I can not change the way people think--but I can get them to think."
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by grim » 3 Dec 2006 17:52
pickmonger wrote:I have read that the answer is to use highest quality stock with a high carbon content.
higher carbon = harder (but more brittle) pickmonger wrote:It is my understanding, that a lot of the steel stock produced, has not been manufactured with the required degree of consistency in carbon content and physical properties.This steel is more expensive to produce and this strict quality control is overkill for most applications.
it's been a while since i've had to deal with specialty steel, but i am very certain you are correct. pickmonger wrote:Is there a drawback to having too high a carbon content ?
just the aforementioned brittleness/hardness. pickmonger wrote:What percent of carbon content would be ideal? Any other factors, if one is looking for steel stock that will be strong enough for thin and narrow lockpicks?
it really depends on what each person is looking for. some people want the hardness and don't have to worry much about breakage because of a light hand. others want the flexibility of a lower-carbon steel because it protects against breakage by a possibly rougher hand.
like a quality ice-cream... it really all depends on the individual taste.
grim
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by REparsed » 3 Dec 2006 20:01
In the last episode of Mythbusters they visited the 'exploding hammer' myth. They tried making the hammer heads harder by tempering them.
They quenched the red hot hammer heads in used motor oil. They explained that by quenching in used oil the hot steel absorbed some of the free carbon in the oil. Seems like this would (depending on how thick the steel was) only be 'skin deep' and only harden a thin surface layer which may be beneficial for certain tools, a harder working surface and a softer more flexible core.
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by Romstar » 3 Dec 2006 20:33
BazookaMedic wrote:What about W-1 Tool steel romstar?
W-1 is a decent choice for tool steel. While it isn't as durable as some other steels, it makes up for this by being reasonably easy to machine, and does not require additional hardening in many cases.
It is an air hardening steel, so any sort of heat treating should be done in air, as opposed to using oil or water.
Depending on the characteristics you are looking for, this could mean that the steel is already hard enough for your applications (IE. picks) and only needs to be tempered to increase the durrability of the tool.
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by Romstar » 3 Dec 2006 20:38
Romstar wrote:BazookaMedic wrote:What about W-1 Tool steel romstar?
W-1 is a decent choice for tool steel. While it isn't as durable as some other steels, it makes up for this by being reasonably easy to machine, and does not require additional hardening in many cases. It is an air hardening steel, so any sort of heat treating should be done in air, as opposed to using oil or water. Depending on the characteristics you are looking for, this could mean that the steel is already hard enough for your applications (IE. picks) and only needs to be tempered to increase the durrability of the tool. Romstar
My screw up, I don't know what I was thinking.
W-1 is a WATER hardened tool steel. NOT air.
Sorry for the confusion.
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