Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by dosman » 9 Dec 2006 2:07
-
dosman
-
- Posts: 166
- Joined: 18 Aug 2006 14:24
- Location: Bloomington, Indiana
-
by stilte » 9 Dec 2006 2:54
Good for you. If i'm fortunate, I should have a few of those to play around with in 2-3 months.
-
stilte
-
- Posts: 209
- Joined: 12 Aug 2006 1:15
- Location: NZ/SG
by pauly003 » 9 Dec 2006 12:40
Awesome......from what i can gather those are the best in the business..I see that it is a group 2 lock. what are those rated for??? 4 hours resistance?? What are you going to try with it, do you have any fancy tools(autodialer etc.)
Happy Picking
-
pauly003
-
- Posts: 275
- Joined: 10 Oct 2006 15:32
- Location: Southern Ontario, Canada
by dosman » 9 Dec 2006 13:57
Truthfully I'm totally outclassed by it, it was an impulse buy when I saw a cheap price on ebay. The brass ring keeps the latch pushed away from the disk pack for most of the dial so the standard method of manipulation I had read about doesn't seem to apply... I'll have to get something much easier to start with.
On a side note, I was surprised at how difficult it was to get it mounted properly. There's not much tolerance allowed for the dial and rod.
-
dosman
-
- Posts: 166
- Joined: 18 Aug 2006 14:24
- Location: Bloomington, Indiana
-
by Grudge » 9 Dec 2006 22:07
dosman wrote:The brass ring keeps the latch pushed away from the disk pack for most of the dial so the standard method of manipulation I had read about doesn't seem to apply...
I don't want to get too far into this, but you may want to re-read your materials (or get new ones). Unless I am misunderstanding your description, measuring the EXACTLY (to within 1/8 or 1/10 of a dial marking) where the 'latch' touches the two sides of the notch in the 'ring' is the way to do modern manipulation. That lock should work with this technique.
-
Grudge
- Supporter

-
- Posts: 577
- Joined: 10 Dec 2003 13:24
- Location: Dallas, TX
-
by dosman » 9 Dec 2006 23:10
Heh, I've managed to get both feet in my mouth. Yes, I finally did re-read my material and realized that was a pretty stupid comment on my part. I had read it once several months ago and had not bothered to re-read it again now that I have actual hardware sitting in front of me.
Thanks.
-
dosman
-
- Posts: 166
- Joined: 18 Aug 2006 14:24
- Location: Bloomington, Indiana
-
by Grudge » 10 Dec 2006 17:51
Don't feel bad dosman, I had to take several different models apart and put them back together before I totally 'got' how they work. One of the toughest parts for me was getting used to the way the wheels interact so you can know mentally exactly where the wheels are at as you do each test. I still have problems with that  .
-
Grudge
- Supporter

-
- Posts: 577
- Joined: 10 Dec 2003 13:24
- Location: Dallas, TX
-
by HeadHunterCEO » 10 Dec 2006 21:31
ack! mark that shaft and cut it please
Doorologist
-
HeadHunterCEO
-
- Posts: 1262
- Joined: 7 Apr 2004 21:10
- Location: NY,NY
by HeadHunterCEO » 10 Dec 2006 22:16
also you have it pegged wrong
should be LH?
no point of reference from your pic
Doorologist
-
HeadHunterCEO
-
- Posts: 1262
- Joined: 7 Apr 2004 21:10
- Location: NY,NY
by dosman » 15 Dec 2006 2:27
Thanks, I was starting to suspect it was pegged wrong after my documentation refresher. The people that I bought it from had it like that but I didn't know for sure (Guess it was mounted differently on their safe). Yea, I'll be cuttin it down when I get a few spare hours over some weekend.
Thanks again to everyone.
-
dosman
-
- Posts: 166
- Joined: 18 Aug 2006 14:24
- Location: Bloomington, Indiana
-
Return to Locks
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 9 guests
|